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Jamaican an LX


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#101 Cook

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 06:31 PM

Hi Mick. I'm running VN heads and got the 5260 from memory (bought them ages ago).  I had to flatten the steering cover bracket slightly to make a bit more clearance.  

 

My t400 dipstick just runs up the side of the trans and up at the rear (drivers side) of the engine. I've got a bit of room there because I'm running an electronic speedo.

 

From memory the Statesman with T400 ran the cooler lines over the trans and down the passenger side.  I can have a look if you like and see if I can get a pic off the Parts Catalogue. Cheers Ron



#102 _LXT333_

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 07:10 PM

Couple pics of the steering uni’s
I hope the column doesn't push them closer to the pipes or I will have clearance problems.
Currently not too bad but again fitting to uni cover may be an issue.

While I’m posting
I’ll get back on the parts don’t fit bandwagon.
Rare Spares starer motor bolts are too long or the starter is too short, one of the two.
Nothing a couple washers won’t fix.
The knurl bottoms out in the block before the starter is tightened down.

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#103 _LXT333_

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 07:15 PM

Hi Mick. I'm running VN heads and got the 5260 from memory (bought them ages ago).  I had to flatten the steering cover bracket slightly to make a bit more clearance.  
 
My t400 dipstick just runs up the side of the trans and up at the rear (drivers side) of the engine. I've got a bit of room there because I'm running an electronic speedo.
 
From memory the Statesman with T400 ran the cooler lines over the trans and down the passenger side.  I can have a look if you like and see if I can get a pic off the Parts Catalogue. Cheers Ron

Thanks for the info.
Ahh ye speedo Forgot about that there too and I also may need a vacuum line for trans kick down.
Mine isn’t manualised I’m told.
I’ll likely just run some AN lines and fitting for the trans so routing over the trans down passenger side shouldn’t be a big deal.

#104 _fli304_

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Posted 06 December 2019 - 02:18 AM

The trans dipstick I plan on drilling a couple holes through the lip on the firewall it seems to fit up nice at this point of time.

The engine dipstick is a flexible Aeroflow job I relocated it so it comes up at no3 spark plug.
Not as straight of a path as going to no5 But doesn’t look quite right at no5. The extractor runs closer to the block and looks to push on the braid more than I like.
It’s actually touching the pipes in both positions. The dipstick entry to the sump is awkward when heading to no5 spark plug.

Thanks for letting me know you drilled out the flex plate holes.
Although I didn’t think drilling em out was a going to be big deal.
Just kind of eases your mind somewhat when you hear someone else has already done it.


Yeh unfortunately I didn't think to check flex plate holes with bolts before I put it in the car and had to slighty drill one hole out while it was in the car. Was a pain to do as not much room but didn't need much. Lesson learnt.

#105 _LXT333_

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Posted 06 December 2019 - 10:53 PM

Yeh unfortunately I didn't think to check flex plate holes with bolts before I put it in the car and had to slighty drill one hole out while it was in the car. Was a pain to do as not much room but didn't need much. Lesson learnt.

I’m hearing you there. I’m doing things now that would have been a lot easier when the engine was out. And I had the engine and gearbox out bolted together for months.
What a dumba$$

I have drilled out the flexplate tonight
Used an 11mm step drill, but it’s not long enough as I can only drill out the converter bolts through the flex plate holes.
I don’t have an reduced shank drill bit to fit the small drill I’m using,

Flex plate cover modified and drilled and tapped the trans so it has 4!bolts holding it on.

#106 _LXT333_

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Posted 08 December 2019 - 03:01 PM

Can anyone guess what this is gunna be used for?

Really annoys me when the pics rotate 90degrees.
Think it must be the way I take the picture.

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#107 rexy

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Posted 08 December 2019 - 08:18 PM

Fuel regulator mount.



#108 _LXT333_

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Posted 08 December 2019 - 08:58 PM

Bingo
That was V2 it needed more clearance to get master cylinder lid off.
So v3 made today.

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#109 _LXT333_

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Posted 11 December 2019 - 10:05 PM

All this torana building is Jamaican me excited. Sorry haven’t used that line in a while.

Got master cylinder and brake proportioning valve back from reco today.
So been working on brake lines tonight.

Picked up a trick fuel filter and some AN fittings yesterday.
So bit more progress there, put the fuel tank back in. Spent an hour or two trying to find somewhere to mount the damn fuel filter.

Also scored a set of long slides for the brake calipers.
Although I have read using the standard caliper with the long Kingswood slides is a bit shi+,
I have gone with this option due to pricing and gets one more step closer to having working brakes.
I already have a set of new brake pads, and the calipers.

Oh and the lower radiator hose touches the oil filter.
Dunno whether I need a shorter oil filter, different rad hose, or the radiator is wrong.
Top hose is good. For now lol.

Probably all simple things that the more experienced torana builder has experienced multiple times,
All good though. I wish i had more time to work on it.

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#110 Shiney005

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Posted 12 December 2019 - 09:08 AM

I suppose you could use the shorter oil filter used on the later model engines, but there must be something going on with that hose as most people use the Z30 size without it rubbing.



#111 Rockoz

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Posted 12 December 2019 - 10:38 AM

The angle of the hose to the radiator looks wrong too.

Is that because of it touching the filter?

Have you put the hose on the wrong way perhaps?

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#112 _LXT333_

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Posted 12 December 2019 - 10:40 AM

I’m pretty sure I tried it the other way.
I’m gunna kick myself if it’s that easy.
Damn work getting in the way of Toranaing
I wanna go home now to tinker.

#113 _LXT333_

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Posted 12 December 2019 - 10:44 PM

Tried the lower radiator hose the other way, made it worse.
It’s gotta be the radiator.
It just looks like the lower hose should be closer to the middle of the lower tank.
Needs to be over an inch or two.
Or a longer hose of a Kingswood? Statesman ?

#114 rexy

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Posted 12 December 2019 - 10:49 PM

The lower radiator hose usually touches the filter. Don’t worry about it.



#115 Cook

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Posted 13 December 2019 - 09:48 AM

Hi Mick. Here is a pic of my hose.  It's just sitting there at present but can't see it hitting the filter.  My radiator isn't original type but made to replace standard radiator. Cheers Ron

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#116 _LXT333_

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Posted 13 December 2019 - 12:35 PM

Hi Mick. Here is a pic of my hose.  It's just sitting there at present but can't see it hitting the filter.  My radiator isn't original type but made to replace standard radiator. Cheers Ron

Hi Ron
Thanks for that. Ye that’s the same hose I got.
Are you able to measure how far from the hose to the passenger side chassis rail?
Then I can tell if my lower hose point is in the correct spot.

The radiator I got was in the car when I got it, and it was connected and running.
Didn’t pay much attention to how it sat before I stripped it all down.
I’ll have centered the radiator in the opening left/right up/down so maybe that’s why it doesn’t fit so well.

#117 Cook

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Posted 13 December 2019 - 02:06 PM

Mick.  Here are a couple of pics.  A bit difficult to get an accurate measurement because the rail is higher than the hose but hopefully these help.  With the mounting flanges on my radiator it can only go in one spot as there is minimal room to move left or right. Would the angle of the motor, front to back, make any difference in the clearance? Someone smarter than me might know. Cheers Ron

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#118 Heath

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Posted 13 December 2019 - 02:10 PM

Love me a good bracket. Nice work on that boost-mount one.

#119 _LXT333_

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 11:33 AM

Mick.  Here are a couple of pics.  A bit difficult to get an accurate measurement because the rail is higher than the hose but hopefully these help.  With the mounting flanges on my radiator it can only go in one spot as there is minimal room to move left or right. Would the angle of the motor, front to back, make any difference in the clearance? Someone smarter than me might know. Cheers Ron

Thanks for the measurements Ron
As I thought, my lower radiator hose port is too far over towards passenger side.

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#120 Shiney005

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 12:26 PM

Just take that hose with you to Supercheat and see if you can find one from another car that will do the job.



#121 _LXT333_

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 08:42 PM

Love me a good bracket. Nice work on that boost-mount one.

Cheers Heath.
Just need to get my sh!+ together and paint a few more parts so I can bolt it on.
Looking fwd to seeing the finished product all mounted up with the booster painted and recoed master with the new lines.

Just take that hose with you to Supercheat and see if you can find one from another car that will do the job.

Ye mate I will try that before I buy a new radiator.
Hopefully get a chance to look later this week.

#122 _LXT333_

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Posted 17 December 2019 - 07:59 PM

Stupid question.
On the master cylinder the 2 brake lines that go to proportioning valve.
Is it front port of master to front of prop valve?
Reason I ask is i have two PBR master cylinders
the thread size is different front to back, on the other one the threads are opposite.

#123 Shiney005

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 12:06 PM

I am not near my car at the moment, but looking at photos of other ones I would say that the two front ports are connected.

 

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#124 yel327

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 04:39 PM

Stupid question.
On the master cylinder the 2 brake lines that go to proportioning valve.
Is it front port of master to front of prop valve?
Reason I ask is i have two PBR master cylinders
the thread size is different front to back, on the other one the threads are opposite.

 


They stuffed them up with  later ADR revision and moved the rear brake circuit to the front of the master cylinder and then all aftermarket ones went that way. Easy on a HQ-HZ, just find the lines of a newer HZ and use on HQ-HX. Bit harder on a Torana, but a UC with the cast iron cylinder should be able to donate the right lines for you. Or get some made to suit the arse about master cyl.



#125 _LXT333_

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 07:13 PM

They stuffed them up with  later ADR revision and moved the rear brake circuit to the front of the master cylinder and then all aftermarket ones went that way. Easy on a HQ-HZ, just find the lines of a newer HZ and use on HQ-HX. Bit harder on a Torana, but a UC with the cast iron cylinder should be able to donate the right lines for you. Or get some made to suit the arse about master cyl.

Thanks for that info, I’m slightly more confused now though.
So your saying one of my master cylinders is front brake on the front and one is rear brake on the front?


I just had one of the master cylinders and proportioning valve rebuilt.
They did say they set it up for disc/drum.
But which one have I had rebuilt?????
The rebuilt one has the larger thread on the front.

So is it as simple as the front brake has the larger thread?
Proportioning valve isn’t a problem I know what goes where on it.
Making new lines is no problem. I just need to know what goes where.
After I posted this last night I jumped on the google and thought I had decided front/front, rear/rear.
But now I’m stumped.




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