[Torviki] Calipers

Article title: Calipers
Article description:
Category: Brakes, Wheels and Tyres
Date added: Apr 30 2009, 05:40 PM
Article starter: Joshua

Torana

All LH and early LX (not inc L34)
Cast iron PBR

Takes DB14 pad shape


Later LX and UC to 7/79
Alloy PBR

Takes DB1028 pad shape


Late UC
Alloy PBR (sometimes Girlock marked. PBR bought Girlock)

Takes DB1085 pad shape



Late UC are the better ones....... then PBR cast LH ones
The PBR alloy although it has the largest piston and pad area is the worst of the bunch

pics and info by the dattoman.
 

HQ-WB

Commodore

 

VIEW ARTICLE
Calipers

where did u get the pics for these? do u sell the callipers or just re-kit them?

there dattos pics and info...

Add to that LC-LJ 6 cyl
Caliper on left is XU-1 style....has a thin spacer between the halves

Takes DB625 pad shape

hey datto any chance u could hook me up with a pair of UC girlock callipers? Or point me in the direction of some? im thinking they are hard to come by.

Sorry mate I have no parts for sale

And you didn't say which UC caliper anyway

Best keep searching
They are out there somewhere

And now to add further... HQ-WB calipers

HQ cast iron
DB6 kidney shaped pad
L34 ran something very similar but hose inlet at top like Torana
They revised the design a few times thru the HQ years... but they are essentially the same



HQ-J cast iron Girlock caliper
My favourite... but the heaviest and hardest to find
Used on 350 Statemans and commercials mainly
Slides on plates (Takes DB1004 pads)



Girlock alloy... has a cast cradle with HOLDEN embossed on it
The worst caliper on the face of the planet
Big piston and pad area (DB1029) ... but crap
Known in the industry as creaky groany calipers... prone to breaking off the mounting slide areas when the pins sieze... total shite... avoid
Now the picture is actually the Torana version with the hose inlet in the top... HX one is at the bottom... and the pic suits solid Torana discs not HQ vented... but its the closest pic I have... Torana caliper is equally shite !!



HZ alloy caliper.. cradle is cast... not a bad caliper and similar to the A9X caliper.. again with a different hose inlet position
DB1023 pads




WB alloy caliper... same as HZ one but hose inlet is metric and directly behind the piston as the WB hose uses a banjo bolt not a hose that screws straight into the caliper




All these calipers will interchange in that they all use the same disc and bolt onto the stubs the same
They vary in size,shape and weight.... If I was picking calipers for a HQ-WB I would use the Girlock cast iron first , PBR cast second , WB third , HZ forth and the HX alloy PBR's would be propping the door open in the dunny.

Hope this helps

datto i have sinned i threw a set of those plate/slide type out thinking they were the shit hz ones. please some help what part number pbr master cylinder do you recmend for torana lx v8 booster running hq kidneys front and vn discs rear?in an lx torana hatch

P7470

Or use a 7369 and pull the valve out yourself (rear port... largest one)

Unless its an early LX.. then its a P7210 and pull the valve out of the rears

datto you say the cast iron hq/j girlock is your fav calliper the one i thought i threw out but luckily i found them. i now have 2 sets one factory on my hj monaro and the other i pulled out of my hj ute.and the 74 prem i just sold this week had these on the front so i did have 3 sets.im talking the ones with the big pad and the smaller pad.would you use these over hq pbr cast iron kidney type?or stick with the hq?for torana.

Edited by rob350hatch, 17 January 2011 - 04:55 PM.

Whichever fits easiest

how come the pictures are not there anymore ???

I can see them.

Not all images appear to be available.

All images load fine here

i can see them all too

I have a set of cast iron girlock calipers , so I think I've just been convinced to use them in my Torana project

Hi everyone

Could someone please confirm if the late UC caliper is a direct bolt on without any mods as a replacement for the "torana" caliper?

Thanks in advance. 

Bolts on

Same disc

Different hoses

Not much better than original though

Thanks Dattoman

Would slotted rotors yield better results?

Alittle more bite

Slightly reduced stopping distance if you know how to drive

No benefit to brake fade and cooling though

No benefit to brake fade and cooling though

I thought the theory was the slots helped cool the pads, that's all BS?

It's deeper than that.

"The brake system on a car or truck works by converting kinetic energy into heat energy. The friction between the brake pads and rotor creates heat, but when brakes get too hot bad things can happen. The most dangerous thing about hot brakes is the decrease in braking power known as “brake fade”.
However, heat is a normal product of the braking system. The problem is, too much heat, for every increase of 100 degrees over the normal operating temperature, brake wear doubles. The longer brakes stay at high temperatures, the more wear they experience. Also, at high braking temperatures, a gas is expelled by the brake pads, (known as "out-gassing"), which forms a barrier between the pad and rotor. The out-gassing effectively pushes the pad away from the rotor reducing brake efficiency.
SP Performance® rotors provide the best solution by considerably decreasing brake temperatures and increasing brake pad to rotor contact by effectively reducing brake pad out gassing."

Edited by rodomo, 05 March 2014 - 09:28 PM.

and datto's lips never moved 

Hi Rodomo

Thanks for your comment, I have read that exact statement before and forms the basis of my follow up question. Can anyone confirm the benefits of these rotors from personal experience?