DIY tools

Hahaha, lead fixes all sorts of things people included. lol

Edited by lcxu105, 19 January 2016 - 12:21 PM.

https://youtu.be/_O61sTY67W8   Easy to make metal bender.

Link doesn't work

Found this next to a 10mm socket I had lost.  Thought I'd show you.

3am on a Sunday morning, everything is nearly undone on a VN trans, and I can't get the cooler lines undone!

Need the car Monday morning- couldn't wait...

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good idea

Out of necessity and budget i made a camshaft  bearing and install tool

from a 600mm post stirrup, threaded rod, a torana K frame to chassis bush and some large washers. 

Not a DIY tool, but a DIY repair of one. Broke the moving jaw on my milling vice some time ago, was sort-of planning on replacing it but not overly cheap. Then suddenly we're all under house arrest and I want to use it and can't get a replacement.

Milled the remains of the broken casting flat. Found some solid steel of suitable size and machined a bolt-on piece to replace the broken part. The jaw is drilled and tapped for two high tensile cap screws.

Vice is once again operating properly. Has seen a fair bit of use the last few weeks and no issues.

Even with some minor abuse...

I'm planning on having a go at making my own sheet metal press brake soon... hopefully

And by soon...I mean in the next few years... like all my projects... lol

Scrap bin engine lifter for a red 6.

Works a treat..

Your photos aren’t showing, but I’ve noticed you are using photo bucket.

Your photos aren’t showing, but I’ve noticed you are using photo bucket.

It was probably made out of Wild Turkey cans and pop rivets?

A forum member asked how to change control arm bushes in my thread.

The bolt and nut are hi-tensile 1/2" UNF. This fine thread should give enough pressing power to remove and refit and will also do the 2 in the diff housing as this can't be done in a press. The 1/2" shank will also provide good alignment as that is the size of the hole through the bush.

The spacers are either exhaust pipe or tail shaft. The washers are rear top shocker mount washers or flat plate with holes drilled.

The important bit is the "U" shaped piece which should be fitted on removal and replacement of bushes to avoid distortion of the arms.

The long bit is for front upper control arm bushes as not to crush the arm when pressing in new bushes.

Note: LC/J rear control arm bushes are the same as LC/J front lower control arm bushes and the "U" shaped piece should be used there also.

Edited by rodomo, 28 April 2020 - 11:59 PM.

That lathe looks a lot like mine, albeit with a different name. 

What is its Hare and Forbes model number please?

I needed a part for mine, and I rang Hare and Forbes, thinking that they would have had something similar.

The bloke who answered the phone was an absolute drop kick.

Wouldnt even take a little time to help me.

I had just spent about a grand with them buying bits and pieces, so I wasnt particularly happy.

Great little lathe to use.

Edited by Rockoz, 29 April 2020 - 09:43 AM.

This would be the current model:

https://www.machiner...51G-Bench-Lathe

Mine is slightly older being an "AL51" rather than "AL51G", but there are only very minor differences so everything should interchange.

The biggest problem with it is the tiny little V belt, it likes to snap and they are quite expensive. Gates part number is 5M710 (5mm belt 710mm long, who would have thought) and prices vary wildly if you shop around.

Here's another that just saved me, needed a pin puller for the 1/8" retaining pins in a Trimatic main body. There is less than 5mm of the pin to grab and under 10mm diameter around one side of them, and they were tight enough for the quick-and-dirty methods to be of no use.

Started with an old M12 stud from the junk pile, cleaned up.

Turned the end down to 6mm OD and drilled a 1/8" hole in the centre, retaining enough thread to be usable.

Carefully cut three slots with a tiny 0.4mm cutting disc (or six, they fly apart if you so much as glance at them sideways).

Made a special nut out of some bar stock (cut shank off old 3/4" bolt).

Which results in the stud having a tiny little collet on the end.

Add some impact, and it works!

Thats just showing off now.

Guessing you have a dremel handy as well.

I bought a knock off one, then decided I wanted a decent chuck for changing tools.

Bought the dremel one and it didnt fit the knockoff, so bought a dremel as well.

Im scared to add up the cost of the stuff I have bought since not working, recovering from injury.

Ebay and Wish have seen me buy too much. Or is there ever really too much??

Cheers

Rob

Thanks, I must admit to being a little surprised when it worked first time!

Rob if you mean for cutting the slots, I just used the air die grinder. I find collet chucks better than adjustable, all tools for the die grinder is either 1/8" or 1/4" (or 3mm/6mm which is close enough). I even use an ER20 collet chuck on the drill press 99% of the time now, much better than the adjustable chuck.

Can never have too many tools, but I am starting to find that they are way too expensive these days.

I'm not stretching the boundaries of science with this one, but it is something my old man taught me in the 70's and I have found it very useful over the years.

U shackles have a habit of doing themselves up tight if the chain they are attached to comes under tension.  This little trick just means you don't have to go looking for a crescent to get them undone.

I used a 50x2.5mm nail for this size pin.

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My old vice wont allow me to bend the nail right over.......

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so I drilled a 2.5mm hole in a bit of plate and used it to get the bend tight enough to get it back in the vice for the final squash.

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I also knocked up the oil filter adaptor for priming the Holden oil pumps that Koalasprint came up with a couple of years ago. 

The Group A hadn't been out of the shed for five years. Needless to say, it had no oil pressure when turning it over with the key.  I was also bitterly disappointed with the lack of barn find dust.

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I cut the end off a Wesfill filter, and found that an old exhaust from a 5hp honda, and the fuel line from a Landcruiser are about the right sizes for the mods.

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Two flat washers were the only other parts needed.

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Edited by Shiney005, 19 October 2020 - 12:44 PM.

After drilling the filter end right through the larger of the washers, it is just a matter of brazing in the fuel pipe.

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I found a hand pump in Auto One ($9.00) and attached it with some tubing. It took about ten seconds of pumping to have oil flowing through the clear tube. It had no trouble sucking the oil through the pickup and pump and all the way through the motor.  It worked a charm.

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