Powder coating or paint

So Gary, what did you end up doing? Powder coat or paint? I'm also at this crossroad. I used por15 on the hatch I had, it worked well & was pretty tough.
Powder coatings pretty easy, just throw it all at my neighbor & get it back a few days later done.
I'll por15 the diff but I'm unsure of the front end.
Cheers

Hey mate, sorry forgot about this will be going flattened paint yes, but sikkens or lesonal with me. Gary

Shit. Stuffed if I  know now.

 

I like the fact that with powder coat I'll just get it blasted, take it to my mate the powder coater & get it back done.

 

If I Por15 it, I'll do it myself & I honestly currently cbf'd.

 

I don't think 2 pak satin black will be tough enough, however it would be the perfect match for the engine bay. Just having to wait for the painter again might cause me more anxiety than is healthy I haven't got the gear or ability to do a good job with 2pak.

 

frOck it. Powder coat I think.

I know i did my time with 2 pack, but i can't understand why it seems so hard to use, if you can read & count, you can mix it, it's not that much different to spray, i find it good to spray. Good brands are as basic as put in 100 ml of black, add 50 ml of hardener & stir then add 15 ml of reducer & re stir. Done, add to spray gun. 1 more ingredient compared to acrylic ! Gary

Would it be fair to say that it sprays like old enamel but dries quicker? Can be reduced according to conditions?

Would it be fair to say that it sprays like old enamel but dries quicker? Can be reduced according to conditions?

Honesty mate, I've hardly used enamel, you can get slow, normal & fast reducer yes, i just use normal for everything though, but i am in qld. It doesn't dry really fast, it has a flash time of around 25 minutes, but it's very touch dry in 24 hours, so yes enamel takes a long time to fully dry in some weather. I'd probably leave the 2 pack 2 days to fit back up, good finish of the gun & consistent, whether semi or full gloss ect. You will need a good quality mask to use it though, but you should definitely be wearing 1 with acrylic & enamel paint aswell.

Dust free time (touch dry) is longer in general with 2k polyurethans, but full cure is a lot faster than 1k enamels. 

Sprays much the same. the longer flash/dust free time does mean sags/runs are a touch easyer to achieve with 2k than good old enamel. 

A regular carbon filter mask is fine if you are only spraying occasionally. Hell late last year I spent about $300 on tests to see if I had any Isocyanate absorption after 11 years spraying 2k, only four of which with a proper pressure fed mask, and basically never wearing overalls, basically doing everything wrong. Multiple tests came back negative. .

Use your brain, wear gloves, wear a carbon mask and goggles, wrist to ankle clothing, no issue safety wise for the home enthusiast. 

Yeah pretty much, but if you're doing it in a residential area, you neighbour's can get a bad headache & feel nautious from the fumes, a good proper mask can be found for around $150 at good automotive paint shops, well worth it for any paint type. I have a sundstrom brand. As bomber states wear the ppe, most of it is pretty cheap & keeps you clean & protected.

Related question please (if slightly off topic)

Re: 72 LJ XU1 chassis/underbody/suspension/diff etc

Regardless of the actual color (there are various opinions on this), should the underbody be the same paint sheen/"shade" of black as the underbody components?

Underbody/engine bay already sprayed in a black I am happy with.

Should the rest just match this?

Lower gloss level on suspension & diff ect, i believe. Without trying to get in on a shit fight.