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LJ master cyl vs LC vs LX


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#26 grumpy xu1

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 04:53 PM

Yes, you need to be careful with press release & sales brochure shots, because many of these cars are built months before the official release date & are often made using previous models altered with a few bits added.
A famous one is the HX LE brochure. It has many HJ pics because the pilot car was actually an HJ.
This one could be the same; LC m/cyl, LC heater box !! What about the carby fuel lines ? Are they 186 XU1 style. I always forget, were the LC fuel pipes used for early LJ, or were the LJ style fitted to late LC ? What I mean is where rubber hoses were replaced by tailored steel pipes.
Getting back to the square-ended m/cyl, the simple fact is that the LJ style including the booster with the different pushrod, was introduced in HQ production in July 1971 & this carried over to LC production, so by Aug/Sept 71 the rounded m/cyl was no longer used. In similar fashion to the Opel M20, it too was gone by that time. So, if you had a pic of an LJ XU1 with an Opel box fitted, we know it can't be correct, unless it was an export special or similar.
The lack of the brake pressure differential switch block, this makes it a very early 1971 at the latest !
Dr Terry


Steel carburetor fuel lines were introduced roughly 4th month 1972, early junction block the pipes are joined like a silver solder, compared to the later, brass "threaded fuel block & the early pump to junction block has a brace near the centre carburetor area.

#27 grumpy xu1

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 05:02 PM

True - Warrigal Black - gloss. The problem arises because it doesn't take many years for the original finish to dull right down and that's how people restored them, thinking that that is the way that they are supposed to be.
 
Cheers
 
Bazza


The Adelaide cars "I've" seen wearing factory paint in the engine bay & boot aren't warrigal black, but I'm not going to get into a slinging match. But yes, the added flattening base is what causes the black to milk up if you would like to say. I'm not going to discuss it online further, only because of a previous post & another unnamed member deciding to be abusive over it. Gary.

#28 Baz LJ

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Posted 22 November 2017 - 11:36 PM

Suppose I should reply to this since I started it haha. Well I got one square too to suit my 72 and it’s getting a birthday as we speak. Considering if I should zinc the lid or just paint it silver for now.

I’ve done my engine bay gloss 2 pak Black before. And will be doing it gloss again after I wel some of these holes up. Some will say it should’ve been satin but I like gloss. Except crossmember etc all satin hide the ugliness

#29 Liz Clare

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 07:43 AM

Suppose I should reply to this since I started it haha. Well I got one square too to suit my 72 and it’s getting a birthday as we speak. Considering if I should zinc the lid or just paint it silver for now.

I’ve done my engine bay gloss 2 pak Black before. And will be doing it gloss again after I wel some of these holes up. Some will say it should’ve been satin but I like gloss. Except crossmember etc all satin hide the ugliness

GDay Baz LJ,

Just noticed you're considering painting or zinging MC lid and I'm wondering if you'd consider swapping it with a freshly zinc plated lid.

I am assuming that yours is in good original condition though.

I just don't want the super shiny look. Here's a pic: 57d40b9ace3b933dad4357e9d63ff3dc.jpg
What do the think? Feel free to pm if you like.

Cheers,

Liz :)


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Edited by Liz Clare, 23 November 2017 - 07:43 AM.


#30 Kockum

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 09:43 AM

There is a very cheap and effective way you can ' age ' your MC lid.

 

Place some white vinegar in a shallow non metallic vessel - I like glass as you can see the ageing process.

 

Dunk lid in making sure it is completely covered - do it on a day when you have plenty of time to observe the process.

 

From time to time turn it upside down in container and when you like the level of ageing  of lid simply remove and wash in fresh water then dry it off.

 

Ready to fit - job done.

 

Forgot to mention before if you use a glass container then within a very short time after immersing your lid in the vinegar you will see tiny bubbles - all good , the process has begun .



#31 Liz Clare

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 11:26 AM

There is a very cheap and effective way you can ' age ' your MC lid.

Place some white vinegar in a shallow non metallic vessel - I like glass as you can see the ageing process.

Dunk lid in making sure it is completely covered - do it on a day when you have plenty of time to observe the process.

From time to time turn it upside down in container and when you like the level of ageing of lid simply remove and wash in fresh water then dry it off.

Ready to fit - job done.

Forgot to mention before if you use a glass container then within a very short time after immersing your lid in the vinegar you will see tiny bubbles - all good , the process has begun .


Thanks for the tip, I will give it a go.

Cheers,

Liz :)


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#32 Kockum

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 01:47 PM

It should work for you Liz.

 

Ditto for carby pressed metal wing nuts .



#33 Baz LJ

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 12:15 AM

YEh thanks a lot maybe I was keen on that nice shiny lid. Haha all good no stress.

#34 Liz Clare

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 06:42 AM

YEh thanks a lot maybe I was keen on that nice shiny lid. Haha all good no stress.

Do you have a pic of your lid? Top view would be good to see if it's exactly the same shape too.

Cheers,

Liz :)


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Edited by Liz Clare, 24 November 2017 - 06:44 AM.


#35 Dr Terry

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 07:09 AM

Steel carburetor fuel lines were introduced roughly 4th month 1972, early junction block the pipes are joined like a silver solder, compared to the later, brass "threaded fuel block & the early pump to junction block has a brace near the centre carburetor area.

Thanks for that grumpy.

 

Dr Terry



#36 grumpy xu1

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Posted 24 November 2017 - 11:37 PM

Thanks for that grumpy.
 
Dr Terry


All good Terry, Gary.

#37 Baz LJ

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 12:29 PM

Hey Liz
This is how it came back.
Can’t message you for some reason.

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#38 Liz Clare

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 12:51 PM

Hey Liz
This is how it came back.
Can’t message you for some reason.

I've messaged you.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz :)

 

p.s. that's what I thought mine would look like :)


Edited by Liz Clare, 04 December 2017 - 12:52 PM.


#39 grumpy xu1

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 05:13 PM

Hey Liz
This is how it came back.
Can’t message you for some reason.


Can't see the photo for some reason with chrome ? Gary

#40 Liz Clare

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 07:20 PM

Can't see the photo for some reason with chrome ? Gary

Hmm...I'm using Safari, which seems to be all good for Forum pics.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz :)



#41 grumpy xu1

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 07:42 PM

Well I'm not changing mine, guess some things i just won't see anymore.

#42 warrenm

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 06:16 AM

Using Chrome here, pics are showing ok, may need to check some settings.



#43 _big jack_

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 04:28 PM

The old chestnut, is the master cylinder painted or not ?
 



#44 Liz Clare

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 05:00 PM

The old chestnut, is the master cylinder painted or not ?
 

Yeah, depends who you ask...so it seems and maybe what day of the week it is, full moon, sunny, cloudy etc. I'm a little bit over it ;/

 

Cheers,

 

Liz :)



#45 xu1_lc

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 08:12 PM

Can anyone explain this

Its NOS i was under the impression that the rectangular top master cylinder were LJ?

going off the cast date on the master cylinder 30D0 and the big nut 6E0A you would think it was LC

#46 xu1_lc

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 08:15 PM

Can anyone explain this

Its NOS i was under the impression that the rectangular top master cylinder were LJ?

going off the cast date on the master cylinder 30D0 and the big nut 6E0A you would think it was LC

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#47 S pack

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 09:02 PM

Will be 1980 date codes not 1970.


Edited by S pack, 22 January 2021 - 09:05 PM.


#48 xu1_lc

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 09:11 PM

Will be 1980 date codes not 1970.

cheers that explains it

I'm guessing HZ then?

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#49 S pack

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 09:17 PM

cheers that explains it

I'm guessing HZ then?

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2811647 is a replacement part for HQ/HJ/LJ/LH and HX/LX built before 1/01/1977.
 


Edited by S pack, 22 January 2021 - 09:18 PM.


#50 xu1_lc

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 09:18 PM

2811647 is a replacement part for HQ/HJ/LJ/LH and HX/LX built before 1/01/1977.

cheers appreciate your help

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