LH 308 manual gearbox options

I'm looking at a Muncie to get rolling and driving for a reasonable price.. I also effectively manage my conflict with having a 5spd in a Torana.. for now. Trying to find the right one is a new challenge.. Apparently input shaft diameter increased at a point in time. I'm still learning.. I will have either M20 or M21. apparently M21 has a longer first with a closer mid set to reach 1:1 4th.. I like the sound of that.. any advice on how to identify Muncie's and which year/model is best choice will be welcomed.. we can exclude discussion on the M22 at this stage.. won't be going down that road.

 

No one commented on capable head porting places?? or offered up a block prep group for the machining?? surely people around bayside melb are building decent 308's? Who is doing the work?

 

and flywheels?? I need one.. I want a streetable car so don't want to trim too much out of the stock fly weight but will go for a machined steel rather than cast.. What is original flywheel weight? Did chev and tri pattern blocks run the same ring gear?

 

No thanks to the alloy heads.. again I'm looking for period horsepower and a stock looking engine. The only visible mods will be inlet, carb and headers..

 

This thread is becoming an engine thread(I'll keep asking gearbox questions to keep it true to title).. Thanks for the input so far.. keep it rolling..

Yes gearboxes are rated by torque but a 308 pushing 450 flywheel hp or a mild 355 produces enough torque to screw a super t10.
Super t10 would be close to what most gm 4 speed boxes can handle.
A top loader can be fed a bit more, they dont like shifting tho.
Like i said depending on driving style how long it will last.

Remember when they used these for racing in the day they did pop them regularly, they didnt drive the cars for speed, they drove to finish.

Dam, thought they would be good for 600 Fly Wheel H/P. If mine breaks (shouldn't not enough hp) will send it to some that can get a bit more as I modified the tunnel to suit. Tried to keep car period correct where I could.    Cheers OZYOZYOZY

I broke a super t10 twice with a 308, at the time was about 340-350 rwhp, think i would detonate it now with just over 400. When researching the break found it was a commo issue when you start pushing more power.
Can upgrade them but how much do you want to spend.

Hurt the syncros in a TKO too, everytime i did a major event, not the only one to do that.

 
and flywheels?? I need one.. I want a streetable car so don't want to trim too much out of the stock fly weight but will go for a machined steel rather than cast.. What is original flywheel weight? Did chev and tri pattern blocks run the same ring gear?

Standard factory flywheel weight is 13.8 kg.

You want a zippy engine combo as per your other thread. This will probably need a 3.5 ish diff ratio to give you the feel you want. An overdrive 5th gear will make cruising as well as traffic light racing a pleasure.

Muncie acquired.. M21.. excited.. surprised at the shifter.. very close and tight shift pattern.. It's not sprung or centred and no reverse lock out.. I'll pull it down and inspect it.. might be missing some bits.. I'm overspending so can't indulge in a hurst just yet.. I'll make do with what I've got. It seems that the genuine shifters had a tee pull reverse lock out on the stick.. Not sure what I've got.

 

Need the bellhousing now. It came with a genuine GM (corvette) bellhousing which is suprisingly light but no good for me..

 

Anyone out there want to trade my Chev pattern bellhousing for their Trimatic?

 

How do I set up a clutch pedal? what pedal will do the trick? I am planning cable..

my stick is missing the t-pull lockout for reverse.. and probably more.. hard to find any detail on the web..

 

Any help with clutch set up will be appreciated.. need a pedal and all the bits in between..

Not sure if it there is a version to fit the m21, the best shifter available is the LONG, shits on the hurst.

clutch help? anyone?

Late reply, NPC in Queensland helpped me out with the clutch and flywheel for my Toyota. They did a billet Steel flywheel (with ring gear) and a carbonetic puck clutch with GM spline to suit my needs for just over $1000. Was a lot cheaper then everyone else. I actually found when I went to fit the flywheel that had sent the wrong one by mistake, it was a project car so parts had been sitting for several years. I emailed them and had the correct flywheel sent out to me strait away. They also service/repair what they sell and do custom work for us enthusiasts.

I know you decided on the gearbox, but another 5speed option is the non turbo w55/w58/w58 gearbox. Won't hold as much power as the r154 but they can be had for $3-500 still. I had a w58 behind 2jz turbo for 4years before selling it to go a 6speed. You can buy bell housing to suit these and there are various shifter housings so you can make them match up to most things. They are also smaller then the r154 so easier for clearance.

No need for puck clutches these days unless dedicated race car, even then when you get to that point would use something different.

A number of companies have made clutches to take big power and drive almost like OEM, yes you may pay a little more but drivebilty just shits on others.
Eg mantic make a 9 inch twin plate, can be organic or sprung ceramatalic, good for high 100’s hp and your grandmother could use it.

Broke a Supra and damaged a T5 behind a mild 308 and excedy max clamping force clutch using a cable setup.  (Dellow heavy duty clutch cable)

Track days do not seem to be hard on gearbox  (smooth is fast) but 5 speed is essential.  SMSP no grid start, so I am in 3rd/ 4th/5th for a lap.

Next is TKO 600. Then I can confidently go bigger rubber.

Broke Supra coming out of wheel spin in 2nd into traction (Lay shaft 2nd gear)

Have you looked into a tr3650? As used in ba boss v8 Falcons and Mustangs in the states.

Edited by Big_Red, 21 December 2018 - 06:41 PM.

I have a TKO in the hatch, 500hp. I don't go out to try and break it, but it gets loaded up hard with 265 rears and a True-track LSD. Full throttle rolling from 1,500 rpm in first and not touching the clutch sees it frying the rears even on a good road surface. When I built my SLR I decided to go for a T56 Magnum box. If I ever have to pull the box from the hatch I reckon I will go for the T56. It fits the tunnel better, has better ratios, a very nice quick shift and good feel through the stick. The TKO feels a bit agricultural compared to the Magnum box. 

Hi Guys

 

Looking at an heavy duty T5 for my Tori

Recommendations between Malwoods and the T5 doctor?

Hi Guys

Looking at an heavy duty T5 for my Tori
Recommendations between Malwoods and the T5 doctor?

Mal Woods is a little more pricey but well worth it. Don’t go the T5 doctor if you can help it

G'day Ken, this is not intended as criticism but more a suggestion for your legal safety. You should try to avoid saying things like...

 

Don’t go the T5 doctor if you can help it

...because you leave yourself open to a law suite for slander.

 

Instead you should say "I wouldn't go to the T5 doctor if I could help it."  As you can't be sued for expressing your personal opinion! (Isn't it a wonderful world we live in nowadays.)

 

G'day Ken, this is not intended as criticism but more a suggestion for your legal safety. You should try to avoid saying things like...


...because you leave yourself open to a law suite for slander.

Instead you should say "I wouldn't go to the T5 doctor if I could help it." As you can't be sued for expressing your personal opinion! (Isn't it a wonderful world we live in nowadays.)

Yes good point. I retract my comment and say I wouldn’t go to the T5 doctor if I could help it.
Cheers

Yes good point. I retract my comment and say I wouldn’t go to the T5 doctor if I could help it.
Cheers

Neither would I

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G'day Ken, this is not intended as criticism but more a suggestion for your legal safety. You should try to avoid saying things like...

 

...because you leave yourself open to a law suite for slander.

 

Instead you should say "I wouldn't go to the T5 doctor if I could help it."  As you can't be sued for expressing your personal opinion! (Isn't it a wonderful world we live in nowadays.)

Not correct.

There is nothing slanderous in that statement.

 

Now if you said “ Don’t go to x because they are thieving cheating bastards” then you might have a problem.

 

It is also permissible to describe a personal experience with a business in factual terms without it considered slander.

 

Back on topic. I wouldn’t use a T5 unless you drive like a grandma or only intend making less than 300ft/lb torque.

Not correct.
There is nothing slanderous in that statement.

Now if you said “ Don’t go to x because they are thieving cheating bastards” then you might have a problem.

It is also permissible to describe a personal experience with a business in factual terms without it considered slander.

Back on topic. I wouldn’t use a T5 unless you drive like a grandma or only intend making less than 300ft/lb torque.

Certainly can’t go R154 Rexy. You have more chance finding a winning lotto ticket. Haha

As for the T5, many people seem to run them ok. I’m sure they wouldn’t handle constant hammering but the odd blart here and there I’m sure they would last ok.

Plenty of brand new R154 boxes from Toyota dealers and the like on eBay etc.

Prices are around the $3k mark, give or take.

 

They are a bulky box.

Five or six gears I don't know. Bit like rowing a boat. Torquey motor doesn't need all those gears.

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I would LS my Torana in a heartbeat if I had the money to get it done.
Just easy cheap power, drivability and economy.

 

a big dollar Holden V8 is way more impressive. The LS is for people wanting lots of horsepower but have no money.

You’ll get LS like power out of a SBC or GenII V8 easily too. Modern alloy heads, roller cam and plug and play injection/spark on 377ci+ and it’ll go just as well as an LS and cost a lot less to build.