Jump to content


Blasting or Dipping


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 _ocd454_

_ocd454_
  • Guests

Posted 13 February 2018 - 11:30 AM

Hi All,

 

So I've had a read through some of the older posts here, but thought I would bring this question up again, as most of the posts regarding this are quite old, and things have changed a lot over the years.

What do people prefer, Media Blasting or Chemical Dipping?

 

The Hatch is getting stripped to a bare shell, and then I had assumed I was then going to drop it at the blasters for some sort of media blasting ( not sand ). The panel and paint guy came around and had a look at it, and he's saying he has all of his big resto jobs Dipped. Apparently it goes through a couple of different stages, then the Dipper will etch prime it straight away, and go through all the channels and boxed in areas with a gun that has a nozzle on the end of a long flexible tube. He then goes through it again with one of those remote access cameras to check that he's sealed all the hard to reach areas.

The painter was really against blasting, as he says you never fully get rid of the blasting material, and it causes havoc when he goes to paint it. He says the blasting material also sits in the boxed off areas and holds moisture there, which causes obvious problems down the track.

 

So what the verdict? Dip or Blast?

 

Would really like some stories from people that have gone through both options,

 

Cheers



#2 madtoranajzedded

madtoranajzedded

    Sir ask alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,891 posts
  • Name:Maz
  • Location:Southern Tasmania
  • Car:72 LJ SL SEDAN.
  • Joined: 30-September 13

Posted 13 February 2018 - 12:00 PM

Never used media or dipping but id say any
process is better than blasting as what you
said it gets in chassis rails and other places
and no matter how many times you try to
blow it off you get it blowing onto your panel
when spraying ..ive had to do a few areas
again .its a waste of time and primer..
Only benefit i see using it is its cheap
and gets rid of rust good on pitted surfaces.

I'll b going media nxt time or even dipping
depending on car and price.id rather spend
time on wiping down panel to get rid of the
residue media puts on panel than blasting.

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 13 February 2018 - 12:01 PM.


#3 tuxedoss

tuxedoss

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,023 posts
  • Name:Brett
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:ss
  • Joined: 29-July 11

Posted 13 February 2018 - 09:42 PM

I've had both done on individual panels recently. I had some door skins dipped , so no hidden areas or boxed bits and they came up very well, any light rust was dissolved and it just left a clean pitted surface, pretty much the same as panels i'd had garnet blasted. But  I had a guard dipped that I thought was fairly clean , but after it came back on closer inspection I could see it had bad pitting in the usual spot down the bottom on the inside. So I drilled out the spot welds and removed the reinforcing plate along back edge of guard. Two things worried me, there was some sort of liquid still in the seam that I separated and there was still rust on the inside of guard. I think the rust was still there as the dipping bit that disolves rust is a manual process and they just keep pulling it out every now and then and look at it to see how its going, so with the door skins they could see if they needed any longer but because the rust in the guard was out of sight it probably came out too early. But the biggest worry was the stuff left behind in the seam. I also don't like the idea of every bit of sealer in the car will be gone, some in places you can never get to. I'm getting my shell done soon and I'll get it blasted , agree there could be an issue with grit left behind but with a bit of effort and a rotisserie I reckon you could get it all out. 



#4 madtoranajzedded

madtoranajzedded

    Sir ask alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,891 posts
  • Name:Maz
  • Location:Southern Tasmania
  • Car:72 LJ SL SEDAN.
  • Joined: 30-September 13

Posted 13 February 2018 - 10:14 PM

Ive just redone under my front guard on
rotisserie blow.vacuum.wipe blow vacuum.
blow blow blow .felt spotless prime the
frOckin thing and the garnet came out of somewhere,will b the 3rd time doing it.outer panels not a problem but under guards floor
etc its near impossible to get rid of it.
ive spun mine on the spit enough to cook all
the frOckin animals in Africa and it still
falls out when i turn it..shit it is 😣

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 13 February 2018 - 10:34 PM.


#5 limo

limo

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,671 posts
  • Location:Adelaide
  • Car:most Torana models, Jag, Vauxhall, Triton, Staesman
  • Joined: 24-May 06

Posted 13 February 2018 - 11:23 PM

I do mine on spit when possible and use an angle grinder with "coral" disks for most surfaces

or rotory wire brush fitted to grinder in corners and groves

slow , bit tedious and you get filthy but you can see the changes as it cleans up.

the stuff coming off the metal mainly blows away with air from grinder

then vacuum up or blow with compressed air.

I can get to nearly all of the body except for chassis rails and boxed sections but you don't know

whats really happening in there with any system.

I then spray sealer / rust preventer into those sections over time while rotating shell so that stuff flows

in and around the inner surfaces and joins.



#6 Rockoz

Rockoz

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,955 posts
  • Name:Rob
  • Location:Cowra NSW
  • Joined: 21-September 08

Posted 14 February 2018 - 09:15 AM

Ive read a lot about dipping.

Thought it might be a good idea.

Reading the web sites of a few yank companies dispels most of the problems people seem to came up with.

Honestly think that it would do a heap better job than any type of blasting.

It gets into every nook and cranny in the vehicle.

 

Havent looked at the cost though. It may be something that the cost makes people not go that way.

Some would prefer to spend countless hours manually stripping and getting putridly dirty all the time.

 

I remember a member here years ago sent his hatch shell to Albury to get done.

Think he had to send it back because it started to get more surface rust on it than it should have.

Cant remember seeing him post again after that.

Probably around 5 years ago.

 

On paper I think it would be the best way to strip a car.

But like all processes it seems to be reliant on the ability of the operator on the day.

 

If I was doing a full resto, and I had the dollars at the time I would dip.

I would probably save the money to do it regardless.

 

But I wont be doing any of that for a while yet.



#7 _leo040_

_leo040_
  • Guests

Posted 07 March 2018 - 06:07 PM

My LJ was dipped by the guys in Albury.

Full body, all panels.

They place a light clear primer on that it is meant to prevent rust for up to 6 months.

I didn't take the risk and got mine in paint ASAP.

 

The painter was so impressed by the result, he will be sending his own cars there.

 

It was reasonably expensive, but if the prep isn't done 100%, the final result will never be either.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users