Oil pressure gauge reading low after reassembly

Looking at your pic there James, yep definitely the needle has moved on the shaft.

Yep, Here's the before photo.

https://www.flickr.c...2478@N02/NW36mt

I've fixed the oil pressure gauge now.
I pulled it out and took the lens off and carefully moved the needle a little bit at a time so that it's resting position is back where it should be. It now seems to be behaving as expected.

My next question is in regards to the amp gauge. Previously whilst the engine was running the needle was pointing to the left/"D". But now that it's back in again the needle is now pointing to the right/"C" when I switch the ignition on and when the engine is running. With the engine off and turning on the thermo fan the needle is still to the right.

What is the correct position that the needle should be in during the above circumstances.

I assume that the two wires are fitted in the opposite positions compared to before, but which is correct?

When any part of the system is using power, the pointer should point to the left (D).

 

You've got the wires connected the wrong way around.

 

C = Charge (charging)

 

D = Discharge (using)

Thanks Chris.
I'm not really looking forward to pulling it back out to swap the wires over but obviously it has to be done.

I've made a few modifications to the windscreen demister ducting whilst I had everything pulled apart and now the whole dash is nice and solid with no rattles or squeaks.

Does your amp guage read correctly as it looks like it’s not in the 0 position in the
Pictures ?

Jason

That's correct it never sits on zero even with the ignition turned off. As discussed earlier in this thread the amp gauge works differently to the other gauges and also suffers from a bit of wear and tear over the years of usage, it can be adjusted but it's not one for a novice to attempt. However currently it's reading on the opposite side of the gauge to what it used to. As Chris said it's just currently got the two wires on the wrong way around.

This is great, it needs to be a sticky i think.

James, I'm curious as to what you used to restore the rolled edge back around the bezels, how smooth it turned out & how tight you were able to get it. Gary.

James, I'm curious as to what you used to restore the rolled edge back around the bezels, how smooth it turned out & how tight you were able to get it. Gary.

Hi Gary,
I'm not exactly sure which part you mean. Are you referring to the silver lip around the outside perimeter or just the black lip around each gauge?

On the top right corner of the lip around the fuel gauge there was a small indentation that I was able to carefully feather out with a file and fine grit sandpaper and then buff with a clean dry rag. The rest were untouched. The actual lenses I polished with some Autosol aluminium polish. The lens retainers were all resprayed whilst the lenses were off the gauges with just a can of satin/matt spray paint.

To paint the needles I used some modelling paint by Revell, "luminous red 332,silk matt". I used this on the needle on the Air Chief radio too.

As for the silver around the outside perimeter, I considered seeing if a sign writer would have some chrome self adhesive vinyl but never followed it up. I also checked ebay for some chrome pinstriping, this was available but I also didn't follow it up. Instead I just touched up a few small spots with a silver permanent marker, but it really didn't need much.

I had another look at the amp gauge this morning and before I originally removed it I wrote on the back of the gauge which wire went where since they're both red wires with the same gauge wire. However the wires have little white decals on them, one has "B" and the other has "G". They were fitted the same as previously, so I'll keep an eye on the gauge for the next few drives to see what it's doing. With the wiring harness for the gauges clipped into the "L" bracket that holds it to the bottom of the instrument cluster then the amp gauge wires can only be fitted one way as wire "G" isn't long enough to reach the other terminal. So the wires have to be wire "G" on the passenger side of the gauge and wire "B" on the drivers side of the gauge/closest to the drivers door.

Here it is fitted back in the car.
https://www.flickr.c...2478@N02/R6Ke9f

Correct James. The Battery terminal on the back of the instrument is closest to the drivers door. The rear of the instrument casing is also stamped B and GEN to identify the terminals.

 

Gary is referring to the bezel, the parts you repainted satin black. To remove the bezel from the instrument case a small flat blade screwdriver is usually required to pry up the rolled over lip for at least half way around the perimeter.

 

Did you have a tool that could roll the lip back over or just used a bigger flat blade driver or similar tool to slowly work the lip back over to lock the bezel onto the case?.

Edited by S pack, 28 December 2018 - 12:33 PM.

There's a specific gauge bezel roller for this purpose.

 

But then, I'm doing this every other day.

 

There's also a tool for lifting/removing the bezel off the gauge.

 

These make it a lot easier, and neater too.

 

However if you're pressing the bezel over manually, you won't see the back of it once fitted, so it'll look fine.  

 

Bezel roller looks like this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used the round of the shaft of a screw driver to roll those lips back over. If you hold the screwdriver at an angle (not vertical or horizontal but somewhere in between) and work your way around the gauge you can roll the lip back over. It won't be as tight as originally but it'll do the job and the clamp to hold the gauge in place also applies pressure to it so it's never going anywhere anyway.

Yes guy's, i meant the bezel as Dave said. Might have to give the screw driver a go, or fab a a tool of some sorts. Thanks, Gary.