Sleeving 202 Block

i had my 186 block sleeved about 10 years ago with no problems

If it’s not any special block might be cheaper to source another block.

What’s it going to be used for?

kens motor would be a JP block, and at 80 thou over??  i would be resleeving for sure

Don’t know but I would think done well a sleeved block would likely be more durable than a standard one, particularly if going oversize. If you are going to the trouble I would think it would be well worth looking at increasing the bore for more power. There is no substitute for cubic inches as they say. 80 thou over is 210cui but why stop there?


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kens motor would be a JP block, and at 80 thou over?? i would be resleeving for sure

I know of a JP block back in the 80's that had one cylinder sleeved because a gudgeon pin came loose and gouged the cylinder wall.

Just a bit of useless trivial information.

Cheers

Dave.

Edited by S pack, 17 December 2018 - 08:10 AM.

Sleeving all 6 takes some rigidity out of the block - it's best to do a short grout fill if you're sleeving 6 to give some rigidity back - still won't be as strong as an unsleeved block.

Depends on the projected power output, for a mild streeter it'll be fine, for a race donk I'd get another block.

Expensive to sleeve all 6, only worth it for a matching numbers or in some other way special block.

I've got a 186s block here I'm doing 6x sleeves on shortly, it's .060" with almost .020" wear, matching numbers HK munro block, so worth saving.

Edited by TK383, 17 December 2018 - 04:31 PM.

I know of an FC Holden, big turbo puts out over 700 HP, he sleeved the entire block for extra strength. Less chance of blowby with a steel sleeve at those high boost pressures.  This car was featured in Street Machine magazine. must be done by a very good machine shop. The shop up here in Nambour does sleeves for group nc race cars. Might be worth having a chat to them. East Coast Engine Centre, Nambour.

regards

Here in Perth I was quoted $200 per Sleeve supplied and fitted,
then you also needed new Pistons as you were back to standard bore, ,
Food for thought....

Sleeving all 6 takes some rigidity out of the block - it's best to do a short grout fill if you're sleeving 6 to give some rigidity back - still won't be as strong as an unsleeved block.
Depends on the projected power output, for a mild streeter it'll be fine, for a race donk I'd get another block.

Expensive to sleeve all 6, only worth it for a matching numbers or in some other way special block.

I've got a 186s block here I'm doing 6x sleeves on shortly, it's .060" with almost .020" wear, matching numbers HK munro block, so worth saving.

Thats expensive had a 186 done about 5 years ago for $600 sleeve supplied and fitted
never had any problems with that motor

I know of an FC Holden, big turbo puts out over 700 HP, he sleeved the entire block for extra strength. Less chance of blowby with a steel sleeve at those high boost pressures. This car was featured in Street Machine magazine. must be done by a very good machine shop. The shop up here in Nambour does sleeves for group nc race cars. Might be worth having a chat to them. East Coast Engine Centre, Nambour.
regards

Dying art. I regularly sleeve entire blocks back to std-020. Clevelands and 308's are a favorite.Did a 253 to suit (now unobtainable) ACL High comp pistons. As far as block rigidity - i don't think there is a high output diesel engine that isn't sleeved.

 Sleeved properly the sleeve ads a lamination effect to the structure.

1 If your going to be hammer the bejeesus out of the block racing then get another one.

2  If your finger pointing at some car show and your ego is in the way then re sleeve 

the only reason i say this is that the original block may be holed by a stray conrod and this is the end result of loosing the block. then it's a big deal with a JP or Ck blocK

It's always never the " the main, or the big end " its always a lack of oil supply.": to the bearing and hence the rod/ bolt looses and lets go 

I have been running an argo rod and it's a light but is not infallible to oil starvationm. but this leads me to the the discussion of rod failure and holing a block. 

The argo rods seriously hang in there and the ARP bolt will not let go. 

So if you re-sleeve a really expensive block back to square then i suggest that you also do the lifter bores as well with brass  inserts and this will guarantee good oil pressure 

If its a race engine then its  a band aid fix to one cylinder  which has been damaged. If it's a road car then it's a good long term fix with no issues.

3 cents

Edited by Agent 34, 02 March 2019 - 05:30 PM.