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Triple SUs ID


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#1 avoidev

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Posted 21 June 2022 - 02:45 PM

Hey All,

 

Just hoping to get some information on these triples and the "armours" manifolds.

 

I've looked for the usual tags that are on these, but they don't seem to have any.

 

Thanks,

Josh

 

Attached File  20220327_122629.jpg   324.5K   4 downloads

 

Attached File  20220327_122635.jpg   304.38K   4 downloads



#2 Bruiser

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Posted 21 June 2022 - 03:15 PM

Looks identical to my hs6 set from that angle.
Got a picture from more front on?

#3 warrenm

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Posted 21 June 2022 - 10:23 PM

Look like HS6 1 3/4", the Armours manifold doesn't look like a Torana version.



#4 claysummers

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Posted 21 June 2022 - 11:46 PM

Pardon my ignorance but I am curious as to why all the after market manifolds make the carbs slope upward? Alright for SUs with adjustable float bowls, but won’t work with zenith strombergs?


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#5 S pack

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 12:27 AM

Pardon my ignorance but I am curious as to why all the after market manifolds make the carbs slope upward? Alright for SUs with adjustable float bowls, but won’t work with zenith strombergs?


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Prob designed with SU's in mind, not CD Stromberg's. Also lifting the carbs would give better clearance with tubular headers/extractors.
 



#6 RallyRed

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 06:32 AM

maybe also help with inner guard clearance? those fuel bowl thingos sit pretty low. 



#7 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 06:37 AM

Look like HS6 1 3/4", the Armours manifold doesn't look like a Torana version.


Spot on Warren.

#8 warrenm

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 06:46 AM

It was for inner guard clearance

This is a "Torana" version, which flattens the carb a bit to clear the bonnet.

Attached File  000208 (600 x 450).jpg   79.06K   2 downloads



#9 claysummers

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 06:53 AM

Thanks fellas, but no one duplicated the factory setup so we could run cd strombergs on afyer market manifold? I ask because a car on the FB EK forum modified after market so he could run the strombergs.


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#10 Bruiser

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 12:31 PM

What exactly is it about the armours manifolds that make them so much better than
the common lynx type?
Difficult to measure it while installed,
but my lynx one is pretty close to 145mm in a straight line
across the top to the outer machined side of the flanges.
Can’t measure exactly to include the bend in the shape, but that must go close.
How much longer is the armours?
Is the taper in the runner much different, or the runner volume?
Have heard talk of the balance pipe volumes making a difference too,
but no understanding of that so far

#11 Bruiser

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 12:38 PM

Do those cabs have the wax stat type jet assembly?
A lot of the pommy guys replace the expanding pellet with 2p coins
Never noticed it ever being mentioned here before
Perhaps that setup is uncommon?

*carbs*

#12 warrenm

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 10:47 PM

Thanks fellas, but no one duplicated the factory setup so we could run cd strombergs on afyer market manifold? I ask because a car on the FB EK forum modified after market so he could run the strombergs.


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The SU is a better carb, in my opinion, also available in 2" & rare 2 1/8", so leave the Stromberg for the genuine XU1's.



#13 claysummers

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Posted 22 June 2022 - 11:51 PM

What about Weber style Warren?


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#14 warrenm

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Posted 26 June 2022 - 06:52 AM

What about Weber style Warren?


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I haven't play with Weber/Delorto carbs much, but they seem to give good results for circuit racing etc. but not that much of an advantage with drag racing.



#15 avoidev

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Posted 28 June 2022 - 03:07 PM

G'day gents, apologies about the delay.

 

Here's above and front images. If anyone has any info on the armours intake manifolds too that'd be awesome, I can't seem to find any info on them at all.

 

Attached File  RUID65708fd6090448a5a9aa04ccd53d8456.jpg   135.83K   5 downloads

 

Attached File  RUID99a668e62f674023a09bb8b2a63d7e44.jpg   167.01K   4 downloads



#16 Bruiser

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Posted 28 June 2022 - 05:45 PM

No waxstats on those jets
Hang on to your pennies for a rainy day.
The manifolds are pretty popular around here,
might fit under the bonnet of your hz if that’s where these are going

#17 warrenm

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Posted 28 June 2022 - 10:50 PM

G'day gents, apologies about the delay.

 

Here's above and front images. If anyone has any info on the armours intake manifolds too that'd be awesome, I can't seem to find any info on them at all.

 

attachicon.gif RUID65708fd6090448a5a9aa04ccd53d8456.jpg

 

attachicon.gif RUID99a668e62f674023a09bb8b2a63d7e44.jpg

Warren Armour cast the manifolds, he lives on the NSW south coast, originally from Sydney area(Sylvania seems to ring a bell). What info are you after?



#18 avoidev

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Posted 30 June 2022 - 04:06 PM

Was really just seeing if they're a good set I'm pretty new to all this stuff.

 

Bruiser really answered the two questions I had, do you think they'd fit under a bonnet of a HZ and are they good. So really both boxes have been ticked off.

 

I had to google what a waxstat was, and if it was better to have the SUs with or without them. Which from a quick google its better to have them without like I already do.

 

Thanks,

J



#19 Bruiser

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Posted 30 June 2022 - 05:04 PM

There was a recent discussion here about how much power 1.75 su’s could support.
Seems they would be ok for mild to fairly hot motors
If you have them in good nick and sorted to your motor
I can’t see why they wouldn’t be bloody good

**Don’t take my word as gospel about them fitting, Josh
I am making a fairly guessey assumption about a big old hz lid having enough height for those,
I’m only going on red 6’s looking so teeny tiny in those engine bays
I don’t actually know from experience.
I’d be making measurements of them outwards and upwards,
drawing mad professor builder’s diagrams on scrap gyprock then checking against the bonnet line
- to save the agonising pain of your bonnet not closing after all that work

I am only just a few steps ahead of you here, recently rebushed and installed
my set that I gave up on years ago. I couldn’t get them to run well, and gave up back then.
Was going to sell them off, but got inspired by all the talk around here.
Used heaps of the advice I found, set them up as fussy as possible on the bench,
and they started right away - ran well too! (besides a high idle and a few leaks)
The rave up is no joke either, I had a 455 Holley vac before and these things were definitely
worth the effort. Makes a lot more power, and my plugs are the cleanest they have ever been.
At the point of setting up the mixture settings/needle choice to find a few more k’s in a tank.
They’re awesome, I’m having a great time playing with them, and when blokes say
“They tune well when you don’t cut corners and rebuild everything right”
That’s the key to keeping your hair intact

After all that, what plans are you hatching with yours?

#20 avoidev

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Posted 05 July 2022 - 10:41 AM

Hey Bruiser,

 

I'm not sure if you've seen my other post about my cam deciding to snap into 4 however I'm currently looking at building another 6. However this time from the ground up, fortunately the block, crank and freshly reco'd 161YT head escaped with very minimal damage so they're all good to reuse.

 

Block is currently 30tho over but I'm going to take it to 40. Get some new flat-top, one of my conrods suffered damage so I'm looking at replacing them all with spool rods. I'm also going to need to get another cam so either a crow 35666 or 35603. Paired with these SUs (once I put a kit though em) and a elec dizzy from a blue.

 

Nothing too crazy just something fun.



#21 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 05 July 2022 - 11:09 AM

You can spend your money on the spools if you want, but it's complete overkill.

Blue Motor rods will be ample for your application.

#22 Bruiser

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Posted 05 July 2022 - 11:38 AM

No flies on you mate that was only a couple of weeks ago
It’s always good to have something on the workbench
to get stuck into, eh?

Great to hear you have those major bits to re-use, too.
A set of spool rods won’t ever break
In your (or my) <6000rpm motor
A good set of starfires would be plenty strong,
and some would argue even standard rods would be ok

$700-$800 is a lot of dosh if they’re not necessary,
could be spent on more head work
or a subwoofer
or some new seat covers
or that Jesus bobble head for the dash

#23 avoidev

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Posted 05 July 2022 - 01:39 PM

Hey Gents,

 

I know the spools are pretty dear and extremely overkill but my ebay/gumtree/FB Marketplace feeds for 202 pushrods are as dry as the Simpson desert.

 

If anyone round here has a set of STD or starfire rods in good nick I'd rather buy them, but on the other side of the coin the spools will last me forever, and don't worry I've already got the bobble head included the budget.  :spoton:



#24 LJ RB30

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Posted 05 July 2022 - 09:07 PM

You have to way up purchasing some secondhand rods, rebolting & resizing at minimum compared to new spool rods that won’t require either (but still checked ).
Spool rods are bushed small end ie floating gudgeon pin that requires pistons with circlips to retain them, do your pistons have these?
I don’t know if spool do a non floating gudgeon rod (Standard Holden Red/blue setup)

If I was building a new engine personally I’d go new rod/pistons with floating pins but it’s your call 👍

#25 avoidev

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Posted 08 July 2022 - 01:46 PM

Hey Trevor,

 

Thanks for pointing that out, to be honest I completely missed the floating pin instead of pressed. Glad I haven't ordered pistons yet. The only floating pistons that I've found that don't cost me an arm and a leg is some 2cc dished ones from mace engineering. I think I'll end up going the all new route anyway.

 

The flat-top pistons from spool are like 1k and I don't have that kind of pocket money.






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