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Drop Tank Sizes

Started by _Yella-5000_ , Aug 28 2006 11:23 PM

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48 replies to this topic

#1 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 28 August 2006 - 11:23 PM

Don't know who I promised these for, but had the tank out to change the sender unit. Thought I'd measure it up while it was out. Yup, I know the shed is messy. Three 20L gerry cans is what fuel we pulled out, still 10L+ sitting in the tank.

Note: Internal baffles (2 off) not shown. Right hand baffle needs to be clearanced for standard sender unit where used.

Posted Image

Tech Articles:
Posted Image

^ thought this picked up the baffle plates, but it doesn't. Basically they are welded to the lid, with 70mm gap along the bottom so fuel is compartmentalised.

Mods: Feel free to make this into a sticky.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 28 August 2006 - 11:25 PM.

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#2 _Herne_

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Posted 28 August 2006 - 11:38 PM

yella, did you make those technical drawings?? Excellent work if you did.

This info should be made a sticky IMHO, so many have asked for those exact details

Did you polish your tank after taking it out? I dont recall it being that shiny.

Cheers
Herne

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#3 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:02 AM

Yup. Might have something to do with my previous life

Had to change the ticks to engineering type though.

Was going to get excited and do a 3D rendered image, but with pics, no point really. If anybody wants the CAD base (AutoCAD 2000/R14) then let me know. If you got CNC, let me know, you'll need to do me the prototype!!!

Edited by Yella SLuR, 29 August 2006 - 12:10 AM.

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#4 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:10 AM

champion effort. cheers. :spoton:

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#5 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:16 AM

Actually, just reviewing my tank, and the Brown Davis one in the article. My 10 degree filler tube is too shallow for the rubber connector pipe --> tends to slide off if not done up tight enough. Filler tube also projects into tank some 50 odd mm to stop fuel sloshing back up the filler tube. If I was making one, go the steeper angle for the filler tube like the Brown Davis one.

Brown Davis one is also strapless (side fix brackets to the chassis rails).

Edited by Yella SLuR, 29 August 2006 - 12:21 AM.

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#6 tinkers

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:21 AM

Guess what Yella did at work today

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#7 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:22 AM

Bah!!! Took 10 mins to measure, and three quarters of an hour to draw up (legibly), oh and two trips back to the shed for missed measurements.

Polishing the tank took two nights (something nobody noticed). Don't travel behind me this weekend at night!!!! bawahahahaha.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 29 August 2006 - 12:23 AM.

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#8 _Herne_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:44 AM

snip

Did you polish your tank after taking it out? I dont recall it being that shiny.

Cheers
Herne

I noticed Yella

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#9 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:50 AM

Oooops!!! Should add reading to my list of things to learn next!!!!

It had semi-blinding ability previously, as did Trevors. He polished his which absolutely blinds me and lights up the cabin now. Thought I best be returning the favour!!!!

P.S. Thanks to you and all the fellas for lifting me out of the doldrums this morning.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 29 August 2006 - 12:52 AM.

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#10 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 12:54 AM

Mmmm, Photobucket has shrunk the articles. If you want bigger size, PM me.

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#11 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 03:16 AM

OK, there is a use for 3D, volume calc. Tank is 115,977,552 cu. mm, or 116 litres, almost 120L.

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#12 Tiny

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 05:24 PM

What a bloody champion

Thanks for that pat! If its not alreadya sticky.. it will be!!

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#13 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 09:50 PM

Wow, if i could dig up the old formulae for volume, i could measure up (correctly) the volume of my drop tank too...

You've done some really great work in this post!! Cheers!!
Keith

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#14 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:16 PM

Meh. Calculations are a thing of the past now with CAD, just draw it and interogate the object (that's how I got the volume, made a 3D solid object). In my previous life, pre-CAD two or three of us would spend 2-3 days with calculators working out minimum heights/clearances and stuff.

Now with CAD you just draw it, and measure. Can also do it to rediculous degrees of accuracy, up to eight decimal places if you want, but I've yet to meet a builder that can build to such tolerances, i.e. +/- 0.00000001 mm.

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#15 _SSHatch_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:20 PM

Fantastic stuff!
I always meant to go and measure this one and have now missed my chance as it was sold to a mainland buyer and as such isnt nearby anymore!
Posted Image

The picture dont show it real well but the mounts are similar to the Brown Davis one I think. But instead of being two seperate parts they are like a long section of angle welded in place. Anybody able to confirm this or provide more info on this particular style of tank as I really want one as close to this as possible.
And I also like the idea of the blocks fitted on the corners to stop the scraping of the tank. Should save a lot of polishing there, only gotta clean up the blocks instead of polishing scratches out of the tank itself.

and yes I would be interested in the full size articles if you dont mind sending them through for me.

[email protected]

Cheers
PJ

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#16 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:35 PM

That's actually an aftermarket tank. The real race cars (no rear entry requirement) where in reverse, i.e. the splay on the diff side, and straight down at the back. I always thought it was an error on the models till I did a bit of reading on it. Think it had more to do with more advertising space than aerodynamics or anything. Happy to hear if anybody knows any different.

Yes, I have also seen the Davis Craig variant of horizontal angles that bolt to the chassis rails. Would be a neater look than the brackets pictured.

Articles sent.

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#17 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:40 PM

Unfortunately to calculate the volume of your tank manually, you'd have to break the complex shape down into simple geometric shapes, and add all those together. The calc would probably take you a good hour or more once you have the measurements, and prone to error.

Easier way would be to get it off the car, and fill it with water, then pour it out into a graduated bucket (just don't loose count of bukets). Still prone to error, and you'd have to leave the tank out in the sun to make sure all water droplets are gone.

I like my puters.

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#18 Toranavista

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:44 PM

Nice work Pat. Some good pics there. In particular the rear entry angle one!

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#19 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 12:19 AM

Bugger using water... I'll just fill it up with fuel once it's been fitted...

Keith

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#20 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 11:18 AM

^ There is also that.

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#21 hatchssv8

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Posted 06 September 2006 - 05:45 PM

OK I finally hit too many dead ends in trying to mod the OE fuel tank and have gone down the road of fabricating in alloy (5454 is proposed atm)

Yella's dwgs gave me enough of a kick to get a well known brand and use the same concept to fabricate my own. In terms of feasibility (cost), it is well worth the adventure.

Reading the article in Yella's post, that particular tank is fabricated with 1.00mm thick alloy. Can anyone confirm that this is an accurate fact. This is my only sticking point atm. So far I have costed the exercise with 1.6mm thick alloy. Even if someone could point me in the right direction would be helpful. Oh, I have access to the same tank as in the article, is there a way of accurately measuring the thickness?

If Gloze is out there can he shed some light on the matter.

So far I have turned a 10 mm alloy slab into a ring to accept and secure the intank f/pump.
Been quoted $50 for 5454 1.6mm alloy sheet (enough to fabricate one tank)
$60 for a roll of alloy wire for the welding
$20 for 3.00mm thick alloy angle (enough to make 4 attaching brackets)

Still need to get alloy tube for filler, all the various tubes for breathers and vapour outlets, securing nuts and bolts, quote to pressure test the tank when finished, and last but not least, how much the qualified welder will charge me to put it together.

I will be getting the cutting and folding done for free.

Will keep you all posted on the progress and hopefully get some pics also.

Let me know if I have missed the obvious or otherwise, Max

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#22 Tiny

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Posted 06 September 2006 - 06:03 PM

Gday Max, To the best of my knowledge and memory, 1.2mm alloy sheet was used in the fabrication of my tank.

I'd be very careful in what grade of alloy you use and the way you fold it You dont want stress cracks forming at the bends and failing after vibration sets in. Unfortunately i dont know what grade is best but there some thoughts ive had!

THe one thing i would have liked to see on my tank, and i HAVE seen on a couple of others, is some skid plates on the lower extremeties that could ever POSSIBLY come into contact with anything.. If you could incorporate these neatly into your design i think it would be a good thing too!

Best of luck to you mate!
Tiny.

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#23 hatchssv8

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Posted 06 September 2006 - 06:15 PM

Thanks Tiny, great thought the skid plate. Will consider but my tank will be about 40-60mm shallower than most others out there. I am only looking at 80-90 litre capacity.
Regarding the stresses when folding, the grade of alloys available for cold folding has been considered, so has the method and tool for folding. thanks.
One thing that I liked on the old HR is that the tank had a drain plug fitted, only ever used it once, not sure if the benefits outweigh the effort and visual impact.
Cheers, Max

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#24 TerrA LX

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Posted 22 September 2006 - 04:36 AM

can someone do a diagram for the breathers thanx.

yella i think race tanks had no rear entry angle for advertising as you say as well as no need for it (ie no driveways etc on the track) to gain extra capacity

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#25 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 22 September 2006 - 03:17 PM

But for some weird reason the splay appeared on the front of the tank, behind the diff, which surely would have counteracted the rear deck spoiler. Something that always puzzled me, unless of course they were trying to get some ground effects thing happening back there.

The article says 1.0mm, but body panels are 1.4mm. Personally, I'm with you and go the 1.6mm.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 22 September 2006 - 03:25 PM.