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LX Hatch worth restoring?


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#1 _Viper_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 04:22 PM

Hey all, well I been looking for a parts car for some time now and a mate at work told me about a old hatch on his property in Southern cross that he said was "totally fkd" but I could have it for free, since I only needed things like wiring plugs, bumper brackets and bits and peices I went and grabbed it... anyway stripped it down today and is definitely alot of rust But it is a Hatch.... Soooo I was thinking of maybe getting it sandblasted and sealed up somehow and storing it for a year or so until I have the time to restore it. Id do all the repairs myself and use alot of the rarespares panels etc but just wondering if ya think its way too bad and wouldnt be worth it at all? or if any of the following spots pictured are extremely hard to fix? it is just a SL 202 hatch so not a SS or anything. but yea? opinions?

Front fenders and nosecone are covered in big dents so there straight into the bin

Bonnet isnt bad, alot of surface rust on the inside

Both doors have a fair amount of rust

Hatch door itself is pretty good

Under the hatch seal is just about gone in this corner:
Posted Image

Bottom of both C-pillars have a hole:
Posted Image

Hatch hinges and surrounding area is like swiss cheese:
Posted Image

Shock tower and corner of the boot, also where the rear bumper mounts is rusty:
Posted Image

Worse on this side!
Posted Image

Whats left of the lower rear quarter and wheel tub
Posted Image

Someone pushed the accerator too hard! bit of rust in the sill too
Posted Image

Outside view:
Posted Image

Behind both bonnet hinges are like this:
Posted Image

Rad Support:
Posted Image

Battery tray
Posted Image

This side aint bad:
Posted Image

Passenger foot well is horrible:
Posted Image

Back floor pan is pretty good:
Posted Image

Windscreens SEEM ok
Posted Image

Both B-pillars are fine
Posted Image

Mmmm and thats that.... Like I said id be doing all the repairs very slowly and Id Have my Sedan on the road so it wouldnt need to be rushed or anything. Im just worried that structurally they wont like it? whats the rules on fixing rust on chassis rails? is a hole about the size of a 50c coin where the drivers foot is and the very end of the rail near the bumper mount is missing too, rest of the rails seem fine.. also a little worried about the sills?

#2 tinkers

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 04:49 PM

Looks like a lot of work, hope you like welding :)

#3 Heath

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 04:51 PM

lol @ passenger footwell.

My new shell has the rusted shock towers as well, this is only the second I've seen with that.

So yeah that car is reasonably bad, but it's definately repairable. Interested in watching your progress with it, even if it is quite slow

#4 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 05:11 PM

Do it.

Strip it, get it blasted and then epoxyd, like you said, then DO IT!!!

#5 tinkers

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 05:17 PM

My old blue hatch had rust in the shock towers as well, its a bit more common than you think Heath

#6 _evil UC hatch_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 05:19 PM

I would love to take on something like that, espesh if it was a freebie ^_^

#7 _Woodsy_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 05:24 PM

Its a torrie.. its worth it

#8 _Viper_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 06:34 PM

Yea well I figured I got it for free, and Ive always wanted a Hatch and its not like I can make it any worse then it already is lol, Ive done abit of welding but would really like to learn more about this sort of stuff so thought it would be a great way to learn.... will get plenty of practice with this shell haha...

So what do ya think is the best way to preserve it after sandblasting? just epoxy primer? (thats the stuff that seals out water right and isnt porous like normal primer?)

#9 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 06:46 PM

Yep, two coats will be fine.

Some people say its still porous, and it may well be, but i've got big tanks and shit at work that we got sand blasted, i primed, then the project got ditched and they have been sitting down the back in the weather for up to three years, yet to show signs of surface rust.

Cheers.

#10 _Viper_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 06:52 PM

Any Idea how much itd cost to get sandblasted... id strip it to a completely bare shell, no diff or front end or anything and make up some sort of trolley for it as Id need the underside blasted as well

Heh just added up all the rust repair sections that I'll need, altho not counting doors/front fenders as Ill probly just get another set of them.

Rear lower 1/4 panel sections x2 $207.00
Beaver panel $86.00
hatch boot channel $42
Hatch channel upper corners x2 $97
Hatch channel lower corners x2 $118
C-pillars x2 $118
Radiator support panel $302

Total $970

Or I just buy a relatively rust free UC hatch and chop that up tee hee

Edited by Viper, 27 September 2009 - 07:06 PM.


#11 _mowie_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:16 PM

Viper,

I completely stripped my hatch, put it on a rotisserie and got some local guys to come to me, cost me $300 from memory, shows all imperfections up and will give you a great idea on what needs what. With the amount of rust just make sure the thing won't break in half if you put it on a rotisserie.

Tom

#12 _Viper_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:25 PM

haha yea the chassis rails seem pretty solid so should be sweet, are you out on a large property tho? blasting would make one hell of a mess wouldnt it? and be hard to clean up?

#13 _mowie_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:33 PM

it was just out the back of a business in town. Very little mess actually. Obviously dont do it near someone painting but it mostly just blows away. It was freakin hot when it was done. 45ish

#14 hawk

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:34 PM

i think u should fix it lol it makes my hatch look not so rusty

#15 _nial8r_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:42 PM

i would like to see whats left of it after it has been sandblastedPosted Image but like the other fella's have said its a hatch and lots of work and of course "ITS A TORANA" if your not keen send it my way Posted Image

#16 _PAL066_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:28 PM

I think you shold fix it mine had as much rust in the rear and i had to replace complete rear quarter on the D/S,
Maybe get it soda blasted easier to clean up. :)

#17 _Viper_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:29 PM

Soda Blasting doesnt remove rust tho :/

#18 _PAL066_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:37 PM

I thought they could increase or decrease the pressure depending on what you want removed or
am i wrong in assuming this?

#19 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:43 PM

I prefer sand blasting, but hey im no guru.

$300 sounds about right, most mobs charge about $350 an hour and should take a bit under an hour to do.

Probably best to put it on a tilt tray and take it somewhere, yes it will create a large mess.

Bloke who does my sand blasting for me goes though a tonne of grit in two hours, so you would be looking at about 400kg of grit on your lawn if you get it done at home, plus the EPA will probably give you a large fine.

Cheers.

#20 wot179

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:54 PM

Going against the grain here,but I reckon its barely a parts car.

Take what you need and see if you can talk someone into giving you some cash for whats left.

Best of luck,whatever you decide.

Running away now.

#21 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:58 PM

Wheres your sense of adventure???

#22 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 10:54 PM

I agree with wot179, I do not think it is worth rebuilding.

#23 _torana_49_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:18 PM

mate its really upto you, if it were me, i would restore it to its former glory, just depends on if your really upto it and want to do it

#24 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:25 AM

u got it for free nothin to lose. keep it til ur ready to do it u never know what pops up and changes plans

#25 myss427

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 09:07 AM

I think if you got it sand blasted, you would only get back half of the car.




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