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central locking

Started by _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_ , Jan 01 2006 06:34 PM

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22 replies to this topic

#1 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 06:34 PM

i know this topic has been covered before but i did a search and found nothing. (lots of info on the old forum, lost temporarily in cyber space)

since i am going to install it into the hatch i figured i would seek the wisdom of all the members who have done it already and not re invent the wheel, so to speak.

i also recall one member having a tech article on their site but i can't rember exactly who....redlh was it you???

any help appreciated
cheers
john

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#2 _Flamenco_

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 07:41 PM

For memory the main points were:
Make sure the doorlock mechanism is working freely & is lubricated,
That for coupe's you could use the back door's solenoids in addition to the master one (2 per door),
In some instances you could wire up one solenoid so that one pulls and one pushes inside the same door (if running 2 solenoids per door)...

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#3 MRLXSS

The Render Garage

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Name:Matt
Location:Upwey, Melbourne
Car:355 LX Hatchback, DeLorean DMC-12, LX SS Hatch, VY Cross8 Crewman
Joined: 09-November 05

Posted 01 January 2006 - 07:52 PM

i recently fitted central locking to the hatch, i used the back door wires for the front doors as they were longer, i also fitted the thingy haha right over the top right hole in the door, found it the easiest place to fit and get too, and also it all seems to work as well.

Anyway good luck, and i have found this a awesome upgrade to the car, as u dont have to lean over to unlock the door for the girl and leave her waiting outside! haha

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#4 _workinprogress_

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 07:57 PM

yeh i put central locking in my 4 door but found that just one solenoid wasnt powerful enough so i had to hook up 2 solenoids to each door and have none on the back doors. but that wouldnt be a problem for you in a hatch. It is a bit tricky trying to join two solenoids together on one bit of wire but with a bit of fiddling around you can get it right. Make sure you mount the solenoids as low down as you can or else they will get in the way of the windows when youi wind them down. Check your window clearance before bolting everything up for good

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#5 _Jewboy_

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 10:26 PM

On the Hatch i only needed to drill one extra hole for the solenoid on each side as you will see when you fit them directly below the door button (its best to keep the rod as straight as possible). You can route the wires through the middle of the door hinges and they are almost invisible and are not affected by opening or closing. With alot of adjusting you can get the door locks to work correctly open or closing ( they need a little run up both ways) but if you can't be bothered then i'd have it so they open easy and push to lock. I've only used one solenoid on each side. One thing to think about is how will you get in if the battery goes flat, I've stuck with a solex lock in the rear and i was glad i never had it removed. A week after i installed my central locking, the doors filled with water when i washed it and i hadn't insulated the connections properly and it shorted, melting the solenoids in the lock postition. I was able to get in through the hatch but it still took a huge effort with pliers on the door button rod to break the solenoid gears free to open the doors.

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#6 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 09:02 AM

thanks for the info guys, now at least i know what im getting myself into.

but keep the experiences coming!

cheers

john

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#7 _mike_nofx_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 11:56 PM

I fitted it to a 4 door, but only on front doors. your lucky you only have 2 doors!
fronts work great, the back shitted me, i tried for hours to get the backs to work but theyre just too stiff, haha so only fronts.

The central locking kit i got was fairly cheap, so maybe the motors are weaker than more expensive ones. so id definately buy a decent set.

I never thought of 2 solenoids per door!! i might buy another 2 solenoids for the back doors.

Also with some rubber grommets and some nice looking wire, you can get a pretty good result with running cables. I cut the wires that came with the central locking for the bit you can see when the doors open (because drivers door had 5 seperate cables) and just ran some 5 core cable. looks neat and like its meant to be there!

Hardest thing i had to do was drill the holes in the doors/ body without removing the door, or scratching the car. I had to wedge a small drill inside the door and drill out. the body side is easier.

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#8 _jabba_

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 12:19 AM

For my HQ i bought a "heavy duty" central locking kit and it cost around $150 but it was well worth it, they are much stronger than thoes cheap $40 sets. I installed the solinoid right under the push/pull lock in the front doors which works perfectly. For the rear doors i installed them towards the back of the door parallele to the locking wire but the locks were just to heavy. To get the rears to work you have to remove the whole lock and remove the plastic cover on it, on the lock there will be a little round spring which holds the lock in the lock/unlock position. If you remove this spring the solinoid will be able to lock and unlock the rear doors with ease. The only problem i've had with this is the lock will slide into the lock position if you've opened and closed the rear doors about 3 times without locking/unlocking the car (if that makes sence), but in normal use it will never be a problem. My central locking has been in for over 6months now and works great

.

Thanks
Damien

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#9 _mike_nofx_

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 12:28 AM

So remove the spring... great idea man!

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#10 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:16 AM

i already have holes and grommets in my doors due to the power windows, but taking doors of and putting them back on should be done as a last result (as i found out).

cheers guys thanks for the help

john

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#11 FastEHHolden

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 11:14 AM

I know this isn't the for sale forum but I have a cental locking kit that i don't know if it works...but it has solenoids (4 I think) and if the remotes work then thats your good luck.

$20 + post

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#12 myss427

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Car:427 hatch, CV8 Monaro, Ve SSV ute. Was part owner A9X sedan until he sold it without telling me!
Joined: 17-November 05

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 12:02 PM

I have central locking im my hatch, simplest kit ever (mongoose) they locate directly under lock push/pull rod. 2 self tappers through the iner door skin 3 wires 1 side 2 the other and that was it. No trouble with resistance, they are so strong the door clunks when you push the button

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#13 _The String_

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 02:01 PM

I also fitted central locking, using redlh's pictures. I had the same problem with the solenoids not being strong enough to move the rear locks(just started having trouble with the drivers door).
Like jabba, i found the springs on the rear locks were too tight. I did'nt remove them, though I did stretch them to remove some of the tension. They now work fine and dont relock themselves.

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#14 _jabba_

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 03:52 PM

Thats a great idea, i might try streching the spring and re-installing them. How did you strech it, did you just force it to unwind a little?

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#15 ToRunYa

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 04:30 PM

i brought mine from wiggerbahn bout 4 months ago, microlec brand (going by mad lill actator here rear ones just unclip which is usefull with a hatch) model no#CR-2002 actating force 60N, stroke 22mm and a heap in japaneesey which i cant read. had no trouble with the install honestly thought ild break the door with the cuchunk it makes, also is compatable with most alarm brands, so you can have the whole remote central locking (make alot of people look :blink:

) ajusting was a piece of piss and have never had any troubles with it

Edited by TORUNYA, 04 January 2006 - 04:31 PM.

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#16 _The String_

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 04:37 PM

yes, just grabbed it with a pair of pliers and gave it a little twist. Stretched the spring enough that it still offers resistance to changing from lock to unlock, but weak enough that the actuator can move it.
Both rears have worked perfectly for over a year now.
Just started having problem with the drivers door, will unlock but not lock. When I get some time, will pull the door lock out and see if the same thing can be done to the fronts.

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#17 enderwigginau

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 02:57 PM

John - Power Windows - how about a how to for the Tech Articles Section?

Grant..

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#18 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_

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Posted 25 January 2006 - 07:00 PM

ask flamenco for the tech artical he already made one, thats what i used to do mine. i must say i cant believe they are still working a year on. not the quietest but they do well.

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#19 _Flamenco_

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Posted 25 January 2006 - 10:42 PM

Thanks for that LX CHAMOIS HATCH- After I did my ones Herne came up with an even better design by using VR? electric regulators. Mine still work too!

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#20 _Herne_

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Posted 25 January 2006 - 11:13 PM

VN to VS all work the same.

Herne

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#21 turbotrana

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Joined: 03-January 06

Posted 12 February 2006 - 12:56 PM

For my HQ i bought a "heavy duty" central locking kit and it cost around $150 but it was well worth it, they are much stronger than thoes cheap $40 sets. I installed the solinoid right under the push/pull lock in the front doors which works perfectly. For the rear doors i installed them towards the back of the door parallele to the locking wire but the locks were just to heavy. To get the rears to work you have to remove the whole lock and remove the plastic cover on it, on the lock there will be a little round spring which holds the lock in the lock/unlock position. If you remove this spring the solinoid will be able to lock and unlock the rear doors with ease. The only problem i've had with this is the lock will slide into the lock position if you've opened and closed the rear doors about 3 times without locking/unlocking the car (if that makes sence), but in normal use it will never be a problem. My central locking has been in for over 6months now and works great .

Thanks
Damien

what brand was the heavey duty kit from and where did you get it from. I have had central locking in the turbo tory for a few years. To get it to work well had to weakent the spring mechanisim in the lock and all works OK. But what I find with those cheapo Jacar solenoids is that they work OK for a couple of years then they start to fail by either not pulling in one direction the way they use to and not locking the car (I have another set in a EA faclcon and it does the same thing after a while). Some high quality solenoids would be good

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#22 _Jewboy_

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Posted 13 February 2006 - 12:42 AM

For the falcon have you looked at later model ef/el ones these are real strong and should be plenty around. I'd think that they might even be an easy fit as the body is similar.

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#23 _kenno_

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Posted 11 March 2006 - 04:12 PM

Hey guys, im looking to put central locking in my car and was going to incorporate alot of the ideas discussed in here, ie stretching the springs and using two solenoids per door.

I was looking at this set:

http://cgi.ebay.com....1QQcmdZViewItem

but noticed that the even thow its "Super Heavy Duty" and that "This unit has shown to be one of the worlds most advanced and powerful central locking kits."
the push and pull is only 28N whereas another member on here said that his were rated 60N!!

Is this the value that I should be looking at when seeing how powerful they are or should i be looking at the 7kg throw or are both these values proportional to one another anyway?

I guess the point of this reply was to see what force kits you guys have, whether you think this kit is worth buying or what to buy and where to buy a decent kit from.

Cheers