16 replies to this topic

[knoath]

I thought there'd be a Sticky on this, but never mind...

Picked up some lowered, heavy duty (look like Pedders) springs from TUFFLH.
Tagged HT (Holden Torana) 2 (LH/LX/UC) FL (Front Lowered) etc... (info provided by Pedders)

I'm thinking it'd be a smart move to include some new shocks (was thinking some Monroe GT Gas or similar).

I've already changed a diff (on the hatch), so I'm familiar with what's involved up the back, but the front I'm told is a different story!

Can someone guide me with installation please? Are there any special tools or devices I need (heard of spring compressors)?...

Any help will be welcomed...

If I can get some help to do the job right, that would be a huge help...

Will get pics if any Mods want to make a sticky to assist others.

Cheers.

[LXCHEV]

If they are lowered springs, you should be able to get away without needing to use spring compressors. So that's a good start! (I've never had to use spring compressors).

Obviously, jack car up, sit it on jack stands, and get the front wheels off.

Remove the current shocks. Can't remember if calipers need to be removed or if you can get by with them still on....

Now put your jack underneath the lower control arm, take some of the pressure off it. Undo the lower balljoint nut (after removing the split pin). Good idea to leave the nut on a few threads... now lower the jack again... you'll now probably need to get a big hammer and tap around the lower ball joint (I don't like bashing the thread/nut itself.... hit from various angles around the area, you want to shock it apart)....

Hopefully it does come loose nice and easy.... once it's loose, remove nut completely.. then gently lower jack the rest of the way, and yoink out those old springs!

Have I got that procedure somewhere close??? I've probably forgotten something... I'm sure others will give you some good advice...

Edited by LXCHEV, 20 February 2007 - 10:11 PM.

[LXCHEV]

Oh yeah... installation.... pretty much reverse order! Locate new spring, then use your jack to bring up the lower control arm and guide the lower ball-joint back into the stub axle hole...once it's through with threads showing, you are laughing!

[rodomo]

You can use the weight of the car as a spring compressor provided the motor and g/box are still in. Leave the car on 4 wheels. Do one side at a time and leave the other side assembled. Place trolley jack as near as possible to the tyre on the lower wish bone, jack up and remove wheel. Undo brake caliper bolts to stub axle and move caliper clear without undoing hydraulics. Remove tie rod end taper from stub axle. Remove shocker. Loosen upper control arm pivot nuts (the big ones on the ends of the pivots near the bushes) Loosen lower control arm inner pivot. Undo sway bar strut if fitted. Remove lower ball joint split pin and loosen nut 2 or 3 threads. Support the car under the crossmember with stand, bricks whatever. Have your support as close as possible to the side you are working on as not to lift the whole front. Release pressure from trolley jack.
This will now use the spring pressure to load the taper of the lower ball joint in the stub. A couple of whacks on the stub at the ball joint and the ball joint should release but still be retained by the loose nut. Again place the trolley jack under the control arm towards the wheel end and jack up until the pressure comes off the lower ball joint nut. Remove nut and slowly let the jack down to release the spring tension, the ball joint should disengage the lower conrol arm as the pressure comes off. Swing the upper control arm and stub assembly up and out of the way and tie with wire if possible. You may now need some extra leverage to push the control arm down to remove the spring and perhaps a tyre lever to tease the spring out.
Assembly is the reversal with a couple of things to note.
When reassemling make sure the coil end of the spring is located correctly in the control arm before you start to compress the spring.
Have the total weight on the jack before you tighten the lower conrol arm ball joint taper, don't try and use the nut to pull the ball joint into the stub. Same with upper control arm and lower control arm pivot nuts, have to be at ride height to avoid premature wear.
Will neeed an alignment after as any adjustment to height will alter toe-in.
Clear as mud?
Good luck!

[rodomo]

Gawd! There were no replys when I started mine I must be getting old and slow!

[knoath]

Thanks LXCHEV and rodomo!!!!

Will read this a few times to get it to sink in....looking for some shockers now, then I'll give it a go.

Cheers!

[LXCHEV]

rodomo's is much more detailed so read over his knoath!!! Good job mate!

[arrimar]

be sure that the spring seats properly in its upper position during installation.

[LXCHEV]

YES EXCELLENT POINT arrimar!!!!!!!!!

I totally forgot about that - CRITICAL!!! It's so easy to think you've located the spring properly at the top... everything felt like it went together ok, looks ok etc... but in actual fact is not 100% located in between the tabs at the top... it's happened to me before!

Now anytime I fit front springs... before I finish the job, and prior to re-fitting the shocks, I climb underneath on my back, and look right up the centre of the spring with a bright torch, and visually check that the spring is sitting centrally around the locating tabs.....

[TerrA LX]

^ you paid a professional for a proper fit, why not thake it back.

[LXCHEV]

piranha - 2 possibilities I reckon:

1) Your spring is indeed not correctly located. This can cause it to "thunk" if it's not seated right.

2) It may actually be located fine... but if it's a bigger thicker spring, it can actually be quite normal for it to rub.... I've noticed some torries just have this problem. My hatchback makes a rubbing noise on the odd occasion ever since I fitted the heavy duty Pedders lowered springs... I've triple checked it's located ok, but like you said, it's just extremely close to the control arm, and rubs on it.

My bushes are due for replacement... perhaps this will help, I'm not sure.

Edited by LXCHEV, 08 March 2007 - 09:37 PM.

[LXCHEV]

Jack the car up, pop a jack-stand underneath so it's safe... then just remove your shocker (once un-done, it pulls out from underneath)... then you can lay flat on your back and peer up inside the lower control arm, and look right up inside the spring.... use a good torch if you need to...

Then you should be able to see the spring located completely centrally at the very top... with the locating lugs/tabs all visisible inside the spring.