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Problem starting


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#1 _draglc_

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 10:20 PM

hey guys,

My lc is having real problems starting in the mornings, or whenever its cold. Its not a problem with the triple sus, as theyre getting fuel ok. The engine just turns over for about a minute before it starts to cough and splutter then it starts, and drives like a dog until it warms up.

Someone suggested that it could be my coil or ignition module that might be faulty.
This has only started happening over the past 3-4 weeks. When the engine is hot it starts instantly.

Any ideas?

A1

#2 surfmaster

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 11:08 PM

A couple of things come to mind, is the battery fully charged and are you getting a good fat spark at the plugs? Is the oil in the dampers in the SU's he right grade - I had trouble once with the oil being too heavy not letting the dampers lift.

I would run through the ignition system before first - check the electrical side of things.

#3 rodomo

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 11:09 PM

Do You have a choke hooked up? How fast is it cranking? Normal? Generally if it is coil or module it won't start at all. Assuming it is commodore ignition, see if the 2 screws on the module cover are tight. If they are loose it may take the module a little cranking to establish an earth before it fires.
RACV MAN

#4 _draglc_

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 05:35 PM

the battery is fine, well it turns over for a minute everyday! if it was just earth, then it wouldnt start fine when hot?

Theres no oil in the carbs at the moment, i dont think thats the problem as they are lifting fine, and arent stuck.

i will try iginition module tomorrow morning.

A1

#5 _Herne_

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 06:13 PM

SU's NEED a thin grade oil in the damper pots!!!
Cheers
Herne

Edited by Herne, 10 January 2006 - 06:13 PM.


#6 rodomo

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 09:29 PM

If there is no oil in the dampers you will have no effective accelerator pump as it were.
RACV MAN

#7 _Oldn64_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 12:54 AM

SU's NEED a thin grade oil in the damper pots!!!
Cheers
Herne

Not neccessarily. If they are thin the pistons can rise too fast and thus lean out the carbs. When you turn the car over you should see the pistons rise up and down slightly. The ignition modules That I have experience have usually broken down when hot not cold. Unless the issue is ground like rodomo has suggested It make come down to your coil. Couple of things to check.

Make sure carbs have oil
make sure screws for module are tight and clean. if not clean remove cover and clean. (do not take the white paste off the module but do make sure the contacts are clean. if white paste hard and cracked then wipe off and replace with new paste. it is burilium oxide and can be bought in tubes from jaycar/tricky dick tandy etc. Commonly refered to as heat sink transfer paste etc.
Make sure all electrics are clean and verify that the timing is 100%. too advanced will give starting issues but would suspect some issue when hot as well.

Cheers

#8 _Herne_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 08:47 AM

Actually damping oil is what is recommended as per below.

Damper oil
"Top up each of the piston dampers with carburettor damper oil. Unscrew the damper cap, withdraw the damper and top up the reservoir until the oil level is 1/2 in (12mm) above the top of the hollow piston rod".

To the best of my knowledge this oil is always thin.

Some of the people in the Veteran and Vintage clubs even go so far as to use ATF (Auto Trans Fluid) not saying this is right or wrong though but goes to give an example of thin oil.


Cheers
Herne

#9 _draglc_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 05:42 PM

i know what to use, i just cant find my sewing machine oil at the moment.
I replaced the white stuff under the ig module a month or so ago with arctic silver so thats all good, will check the screws etc.

Thanks,

Andrew

#10 rodomo

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:43 PM

The thinner the oil the faster the piston lifts. The piston lift speed governs how much fuel for acceleration. The slower the piston speed the more acceleration fuel is delivered as the venturi is blocked for more time for air, therefore it has to suck fuel, too thick an oil and it will bog down due too excess fuel. Relevent for both SU's and CD stombergs. Members with big cam motors might want to experiment.
RACV MAN

Edited by rodomo, 11 January 2006 - 10:46 PM.


#11 _Oldn64_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:50 PM

Correct what I was actually leading too is that the thin oils can actually lean teh car out which does not help you at all... where as the thicker oils will enrichen the carbs which is opposite to what most people do when looking at Su's or strommies, and thus get upset with them....Su's are gold.

Cheers

#12 rodomo

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Posted 13 January 2006 - 01:24 PM

First thing pull a plug lead off and check for spark. If you have spark straight away its a fuel problem. May be flooding overnight? If its running like a dog on start up.
RACV MAN

Edited by rodomo, 13 January 2006 - 01:26 PM.


#13 _draglc_

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Posted 13 January 2006 - 09:55 PM

Fixed it guys..

Was the oil. See i used to run the side fuel bowl SU's, and i could run no oil in them, and it was fine. The SU's i have now are HIF integrated fuel bown design, so i guess theyre little less tolerant!

Hehe, anyway, got my carby guy to put a mix of oil in there, which is right for my setup, so all good, and thanks for the help!

A1

#14 surfmaster

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Posted 13 January 2006 - 10:14 PM

Oils just aren't oils Sol :D

#15 _David_

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Posted 21 March 2006 - 03:52 PM

The best S.U carby is HS6,HIF are RUBISH!way tooo leeen,richen all the carby's up

#16 J-Rod

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Posted 21 March 2006 - 04:34 PM

...and here's one from the archives :tease:

#17 _draglc_

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Posted 21 March 2006 - 06:23 PM

HIF arent rubbish, just need to be sorted out properly. I think an electric fuel pump is also half the answer.

A1




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