Problem starting
#1 _draglc_
Posted 09 January 2006 - 10:20 PM
My lc is having real problems starting in the mornings, or whenever its cold. Its not a problem with the triple sus, as theyre getting fuel ok. The engine just turns over for about a minute before it starts to cough and splutter then it starts, and drives like a dog until it warms up.
Someone suggested that it could be my coil or ignition module that might be faulty.
This has only started happening over the past 3-4 weeks. When the engine is hot it starts instantly.
Any ideas?
A1
#2
Posted 09 January 2006 - 11:08 PM
I would run through the ignition system before first - check the electrical side of things.
#3
Posted 09 January 2006 - 11:09 PM
RACV MAN
#4 _draglc_
Posted 10 January 2006 - 05:35 PM
Theres no oil in the carbs at the moment, i dont think thats the problem as they are lifting fine, and arent stuck.
i will try iginition module tomorrow morning.
A1
#5 _Herne_
Posted 10 January 2006 - 06:13 PM
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 10 January 2006 - 06:13 PM.
#6
Posted 10 January 2006 - 09:29 PM
RACV MAN
#7 _Oldn64_
Posted 11 January 2006 - 12:54 AM
Not neccessarily. If they are thin the pistons can rise too fast and thus lean out the carbs. When you turn the car over you should see the pistons rise up and down slightly. The ignition modules That I have experience have usually broken down when hot not cold. Unless the issue is ground like rodomo has suggested It make come down to your coil. Couple of things to check.SU's NEED a thin grade oil in the damper pots!!!
Cheers
Herne
Make sure carbs have oil
make sure screws for module are tight and clean. if not clean remove cover and clean. (do not take the white paste off the module but do make sure the contacts are clean. if white paste hard and cracked then wipe off and replace with new paste. it is burilium oxide and can be bought in tubes from jaycar/tricky dick tandy etc. Commonly refered to as heat sink transfer paste etc.
Make sure all electrics are clean and verify that the timing is 100%. too advanced will give starting issues but would suspect some issue when hot as well.
Cheers
#8 _Herne_
Posted 11 January 2006 - 08:47 AM
Damper oil
"Top up each of the piston dampers with carburettor damper oil. Unscrew the damper cap, withdraw the damper and top up the reservoir until the oil level is 1/2 in (12mm) above the top of the hollow piston rod".
To the best of my knowledge this oil is always thin.
Some of the people in the Veteran and Vintage clubs even go so far as to use ATF (Auto Trans Fluid) not saying this is right or wrong though but goes to give an example of thin oil.
Cheers
Herne
#9 _draglc_
Posted 11 January 2006 - 05:42 PM
I replaced the white stuff under the ig module a month or so ago with arctic silver so thats all good, will check the screws etc.
Thanks,
Andrew
#10
Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:43 PM
RACV MAN
Edited by rodomo, 11 January 2006 - 10:46 PM.
#11 _Oldn64_
Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:50 PM
Cheers
#12
Posted 13 January 2006 - 01:24 PM
RACV MAN
Edited by rodomo, 13 January 2006 - 01:26 PM.
#13 _draglc_
Posted 13 January 2006 - 09:55 PM
Was the oil. See i used to run the side fuel bowl SU's, and i could run no oil in them, and it was fine. The SU's i have now are HIF integrated fuel bown design, so i guess theyre little less tolerant!
Hehe, anyway, got my carby guy to put a mix of oil in there, which is right for my setup, so all good, and thanks for the help!
A1
#14
Posted 13 January 2006 - 10:14 PM
#15 _David_
Posted 21 March 2006 - 03:52 PM
#16
Posted 21 March 2006 - 04:34 PM
#17 _draglc_
Posted 21 March 2006 - 06:23 PM
A1
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