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Lc Ignition Starting


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#1 LC-069

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 05:09 PM

For some reason my lc when you go to start the motor, cranking on 'START', it wont start until it flicks back on 'ON' after cranking.
Can not work it out?
Please help me someone!

Thanks a heap

#2 gtrboyy

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 06:31 PM

Have you checked the fusible link?It should be a wire covered in a silver sheathing at the back of the switch,most people solder in a wire with a fuse when they replace it.It is at the back of ign 1 & goes to the positive of the coil according to the diagrams that I have & has a rating of 1.8ohms +/- .06 resistance.Hope this helps.

Edited by gtrboyy, 10 January 2006 - 06:33 PM.


#3 rodomo

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 09:26 PM

If I have read correctly it cranks in the start position but won't continue to run until you let go of the key 1 click. If this is the case you either have a worn ignition switch in that there is no signal to the coil while cranking or the 12v feed to the coil while cranking is not happening. If you have 2 small wires on your starter check one hasn't fallen off. Another fault may be the starter itself drawing too much current and "starving" the ignition while cranking. Hope this sheds some light.
RACV MAN

#4 FastEHHolden

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 11:07 PM

there should be 2 wires to the positive side of the coil...1 of them is the ballast resistor wire and it is bypassed when starting..the other supplies battery voltage to the coil during starting..if it has come off (or its circuit thru the ignition switch is open) then it will cause the fault you describe.

#5 LC-069

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Posted 12 January 2006 - 08:51 PM

Still is correct, and its a LC GTR with an electronic ignition.

Thanks for your replys
Will have to continue fault finding.

Any other ideas?

#6 rodomo

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Posted 13 January 2006 - 11:37 PM

Get your mate to hold a spark plug lead to earth (with a 10mm gap) while you crank (it's only 20,000 volts)and see if there is spark.
Let us know the result
RACV MAN

#7 gtrboyy

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Posted 21 January 2006 - 09:15 PM

Did you find out what the problem was?

#8 LC-069

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Posted 23 January 2006 - 05:37 PM

No not yet :(

What is happening, when i turn the ignition onto 'ON' there is 12volts at the coil
but
when i turn to "START" crack the motor, there is no volts at the coil.

As soon as i return to 'ON' after cracking, she starts up and 12volts present at coil.

Whyyyy?????

Thanks guys

#9 gtrboyy

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Posted 23 January 2006 - 06:18 PM

Mine used to crank & then when you let go of the key it would fire up & turn off,which turned out to be the fuse wire at the back of the ignition switch but you said you already checked it didnt you? To check it just put a wire from the positive of the battery to the positive of the coil & crank it,if it runs then its the fuse wire IMO.

#10 LC-069

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Posted 26 January 2006 - 03:53 PM

Tried putting a cable across the positive side of coil and battery, car started while cranking. All good

Can not find a fuse on this ignition wire. In the ON position, tested for power, power present on this wire and others. Except for purple wire which goes to starter motor solenoid.

Could it be the ignition switch?

Thanks guys

#11 rodomo

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Posted 26 January 2006 - 07:41 PM

Take the small solenoid wire off you starter to prevent it starting. Then hold the key in the start position and see if you have power at the ignition wire at the switch.(pink from memory). If you don't your switch is the fault. If you do disconnect the + wire at the coil and get your mate to hold the key to start (unless you have rubber bands for arms) and check for power to that wire. (pink also?) Best checked with a volt meter rather than a test light. you would be looking for battery voltage minus up to 1 volt. Last reconnect the starter, and again check voltage to the coil + with that wire still disconnected. If your started is drawing a lot of current it may be starving your ignition.

RACV MAN

#12 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 26 January 2006 - 09:05 PM

Have been looking at the wiring diagram for an LJ, is it significantly different to the LC? Cant see any fusible link on the ignition coil circuit, the only fusible link I see is from the starter going to the ammeter, if this was gone there would be other bigger problems, same with any of the fuses on the fuse panel.
I think the prob is the switch, it switches from the resistance wire to the bypass wire when cranking, check the connection of this wire at the switch end, wherever that is on an LC. Its obviously not getting 12V here, but your switch is getting 12V otherwise when in the on position, so the 12V supply to the switch is okay. If the connection is good, pull the switch apart, the contacts may just need cleaning, failing that replace it.
you could run a oneway wire(wire with a diode) from the starter to work the coil when cranking, but the switch is the sensible way to go!

What have you done to the coil supply lead to get the full voltage since you are running an electronic ignition?

Edited by devilsadvocate, 26 January 2006 - 09:06 PM.


#13 gtrboyy

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Posted 26 January 2006 - 09:13 PM

Unclip the plug at the back of the ignition switch,on the pink wire is where the fuse wire is,you might have to unwrap the tape like I had to.If it is still within specs then check your ignition switch,they are over 35 years old so it might just be a combination of things.

#14 LC-069

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 03:56 PM

Problem all fixed, Thanks guys for your help

#15 rodomo

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 04:43 PM

Problem all fixed, great! But what was wrong?

RACV MAN

#16 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 08:55 PM

Problem all fixed, great! But what was wrong?

RACV MAN

Yes, same as Rodomo. We dont really want to know whose diagnosis/recommendations helped, just what it really was so we can all be the better for it.
Thanks.

#17 LC-069

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 10:54 PM

The ignition contacts as previously mentioned by other members.
Replaced ignition barrel.

Thanks guys

#18 rodomo

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Posted 29 January 2006 - 01:03 AM

Good work!
RACV MAN




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