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HQ Brake conversion Tutorial


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#26 dattoman

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 11:53 AM

Theres a big yellow pic up there ^^^
Thats shows it all on an LJ

#27 _why-psi_

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 12:06 PM

sweet, just saw lh-lx everywhere, thought stubs might be different to lj

sounds easier than cracking balljoints! :rockon:

#28 A9X

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 12:29 PM

What happenned to that car after PB finished with it ?


That car was in the late Trevor Young's collection and was for sale (with the rest of his cars) earler this year.

I don't know if the gentleman who bought his A9X's bought any of the others in his collection.

Welby

#29 _v8slrtorana_

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 07:28 PM

Here is the way i done it.
It can be done cheap using 2nd hand parts, but i went with new rotors, pads, ect.
In comparison to whats on offer from dattoman or hoppers, i don't think i would do this again.

But the bottom line is, i can run 14 wheels, in HQ pattern with the std torana geomertery. And, all my wearing parts, are unmodified stuff that is simple as walk into a Supercheap or Repco, go home and fit. No grinding.

Here is how i done it. :blink:
Ive used torana drum stubs.
I cut the backing plate knob off.
Fitted the CRS adapter plates. This positions the HQ-WB caliper in the correct position on the HQ rotor.
Removed my rotors and stubs.
Fitted the drum stub and adapters to my car.
Fitted the HQ rotors to my car.
Remove the steel slide from my caliper, fitted the HX slide. LX and HX have the same crappy caliper, but the hose inlets are in different positions. So i used my LX so i didn't have to get a longer hose made.
Thats it.
Brake upgrade slide show

#30 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 07:38 PM

^ I did not think CRS sold the adaptor plates by themselves?

#31 _v8slrtorana_

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 07:45 PM

^ I did not think CRS sold the adaptor plates by themselves?

Yup, they do sell them by themselves.
They would like you to send your stubs so they can cut/machine the knob off, but thats an extra $60-80 in freight + labour.
Its not hard to do.
I will search for my receipt for the kit price. I can't remember off the top of my head. $280 ish??

#32 _why-psi_

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 08:06 PM

what do HQ stubs change in the steering geometry?

#33 royalplumss

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 06:45 PM

I have been following the various threads sporadically for a while now - very confusing if you try and figure all the differences on all the options. I am fairly certain that one of the rarely mentioned side-effect of the HQ crossover conversion (apart from constant fitting/removing/grinding until you have full travel clearances) is that your car will sit a bit lower. Very few Torries have their belly at stock height these days and you may find that you would need to change your springs and shocks back to something more suitable. Some people may find this a bonus but I watched a mate of mine push a (styrofoam) Maccas box up Parramatta Rd with his crossmember MANY years ago. Apart from compliance issues you could do a serious bit of damage to your pride and joy if you have'nt factored this in.
The cut-down option is looking pretty good all things considered. Bolt up a pair of slotted/drilled DBRs (or similar) with LX pattern and they should even fit in the 14in Hotwires I love so much

#34 _v8slrtorana_

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 07:13 PM

I had no dramas buying a set of harrop A9X arms to compensate for bump stop issuses, but fitting the HQ stubs which lowers your car was the biggest thing i had an issue with.
I personaly don't really like the idea of turning down the disc so it fits on torana stub, but i live in Darwin, and machinest that can do that is un-heard of in this neck of the woods. How ever, i can see its a good idea, and works really well.
Ive done it, i will never do it again. Considering i will never run a rim smaller then 15" from now on, if i had to upgrade a car again, it would be a sale for Racebrakes !

#35 dattoman

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 08:34 PM

Would that be Race Brakes WA
Unit 5 Gillam Drive
Kelmscott
9390 0183
[email protected] ?

#36 MRLXSS

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 10:05 PM

Is it only a HQ Caliper that will bolt to a Torana Stub? Or will a HJ/X/Z/WB caliper fit as well?

Very good info shared here! Thanks

#37 dattoman

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 10:47 PM

Q,J,X,Z,WB all have the same mount pattern
They vary in materials and casting so some "modifying" may be required
The Q ones are on the LJ probably because its from the period and you must use brakes from the era
The alloy calipers came later

#38 MRLXSS

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 11:28 PM

Sweet, so i can just try and find and sought of caliper... Thanks for clearing that up! :spoton:

Cheers

#39 _202LX_

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 07:02 PM

Im pretty sure that you will have to swap the stub axles from left to right for this to work. If you dont, and just have the HQ calipers on the same side as they were on the HQ then the bleed nipple will end up lower than the slave cylinder and the system won bleed properly. If you swap the calipers from left to right and leave the stub axles normal, then the caliper will hit on the steering arm. The only solution i can think of is to swap the stub axels from left to right and have the calipers on the back of the rotor.

#40 _big trav_

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 09:49 PM

Hi. Do people change to hq because there better than torana ones or is it just to change to hq pattern as i just bought a set of undrilled torana discs p/n (dba010u) to drill hq pattern in for $100 each at bursons. Seems to be the cheapest way of doing it.

#41 TerrA LX

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 10:45 PM

^ bit of both mate.

#42 kingsly

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Posted 27 August 2008 - 03:21 PM

v8lrtorana quick question - this is a pic from ur photobucket -
Posted Image

that is the modifyed drum brake stub axles with the crs hq-wb caliper adaptor plate?

Cheers

#43 sl308

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 08:43 PM

ive used hj stubs, harrop steering arms and hx girlock calipers.
the brake lines are too short.
i read in one of the other tutorials you use commodore brake lines...(but the thread is too old and the photos wont show)
which model?

#44 _rorym_

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 09:53 PM

Thought Commodores were metric thread?..Thereby different...?
R

#45 sl308

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Posted 22 October 2008 - 04:40 AM

pic 9: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from front

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pic 10: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from rear

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pic 11: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from rear


dont know rory, thats why im asking.
above is from torana jan 14/2006 in the grinding metal from a9x thread.
are the calipers modded to take the metric lines? have they changed where the hoses fit?
or do i go and get some new hoses made up?


thanks, steve..

#46 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 October 2008 - 05:51 AM

Thought Commodores were metric thread?..Thereby different...?
R

Yes but so are WB calipers I believe if you go that way

#47 _Herne_

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Posted 22 October 2008 - 08:31 AM

Redslur drove my car recently and the first thing he commented on was how good the HQ style brakes over the standard Torana brakes. HQ on the front and I am pretty sure its HX or HZ on the Salisbury rear end.
Yes they are cheap and pretty effective.

Cheers
Herne

Hi. Do people change to hq because there better than torana ones or is it just to change to hq pattern as i just bought a set of undrilled torana discs p/n (dba010u) to drill hq pattern in for $100 each at bursons. Seems to be the cheapest way of doing it.



#48 _NOGEN 3_

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Posted 29 December 2008 - 09:04 PM

I did this conversion back in '94 (HQ cast iron front LH/X rear wheel cyls-HQs gave too much rear brake)and found the calipers clashed with the upper wishbone- I'm just wondering, what was I doing wrong?
(Still thinking of doing a Commodore 4WD conversion to the LC 2door....)

Edited by NOGEN 3, 29 December 2008 - 09:07 PM.


#49 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 December 2008 - 09:45 PM

^ sounds like you had them on the wrong way.

#50 _NOGEN 3_

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Posted 30 December 2008 - 11:54 AM

Mmmm, maybe I didn't change the stubs L to R....




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