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HQ Brake conversion Tutorial

Started by weedy , Jun 04 2007 05:32 PM

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#201 Nightrain 554

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 04:27 PM

just a quick question with the hq discs does anyone use dust covers

#202 _LXSLR5000_

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 07:32 PM

Hi,

 

This is my HQ brake conversion I did around 20 years ago. The car has been off the road since then undergoing a resto and only driven a couple of times when moving house, as other interests and life in general has got in the way. I have got keen again now and have just joined up to this group.

 

Front suspension is Pedders H/D lowered springs with Koni shocks. Reading through the brake/suspension threads on here it seems I have done pretty much what has been posted here. HQ stubs, discs and cast steel PBR calipers. I'm still using the LX steering arms. Also, as has been said, this conversion creates clearance problems. The caliper hits on the front of the upper control arm, but I haven't modified anything yet to fix it. 

 

As I haven't really done any driving with this set up, just wanting to get advice from those who have.

 

1. The steering rods are parallel/straight when lined up with the tie rod end. Should this be OK for bump steer?

2. I have UC steering arms, would this set up benefit from these?

3. I also have UC upper control arms. Again, would this set up benefit from fitting these and help with clearance problems?

4. If I fit the UC upper control arms, should I redrill the mounting holes to the UC, A9X position or use LX?

5. Also, while looking through my parts, I found a pair of cast iron Girlock calipers. Would these be a better option?

 

Any advice really appreciated.Attached File  20160411_170937_resized.jpg   83.96K   14 downloadsAttached File  20160411_163306_resized.jpg   94.13K   16 downloadsAttached File  20160411_163252_resized.jpg   125.16K   13 downloadsAttached File  20160411_163828-1-1-1_resized.jpg   95.69K   15 downloads


Edited by LXSLR5000, 11 April 2016 - 07:40 PM.

#203 76lxhatch

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 09:09 PM

1. It depends on your static alignment, if you have a significant amount of positive caster then you'll want to drop the outer tie rod end to compensate for this lifting it.

 

2. See #1

 

3. UC upper control arms offer more positive caster which has benefits for handling and tracking. If you do this, fit the UC steering arms also (again see #1). Won't help with brake clearance.

 

4. The lower mounting position generally offers the best negative camber gain. However if you have an RTS LX you already have this lower position, if an early one the holes are smack in the middle and don't allow enough meat for re-drilling.

 

5. I doubt it, the ones you have are usually the pick for best clearance. A minimal notch to the upper control arm should be possible without compromising its strength, remember you don't necessarily need clearance at full droop or bump at the same time as full lock unless you're Bo Duke.


#204 _LXSLR5000_

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 09:32 PM

1. It depends on your static alignment, if you have a significant amount of positive caster then you'll want to drop the outer tie rod end to compensate for this lifting it.

 

2. See #1

 

3. UC upper control arms offer more positive caster which has benefits for handling and tracking. If you do this, fit the UC steering arms also (again see #1). Won't help with brake clearance.

 

4. The lower mounting position generally offers the best negative camber gain. However if you have an RTS LX you already have this lower position, if an early one the holes are smack in the middle and don't allow enough meat for re-drilling.

 

5. I doubt it, the ones you have are usually the pick for best clearance. A minimal notch to the upper control arm should be possible without compromising its strength, remember you don't necessarily need clearance at full droop or bump at the same time as full lock unless you're Bo Duke.

 

Thanks for the reply. It sounds like I have a reasonable set up then. 

 

It is an RTS LX, I think I will go ahead and fit the UC upper arms and steering arms. Pretty sure castor is factory spec at the moment.

 

I've thought about notching the control arm. It wouldn't be too hard to reinforce the notched area anyway. Do you think the UC upper control arm will give more clearance to the caliper?

 

Not planning on any Dukes Of Hazard moves :D.

 

One more thing. Would HZ Girlock alloy calipers be better?


#205 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 07:42 AM

The UC upper control arm won't help with brake clearance, will likely still need a small amount of notching. I like the HZ calipers as they are a little lighter (and possibly better looking) but still a good caliper. However they will need modification to fit, and possibly also a change to Harrop/A9X steering arms which are expensive (but good for lots of positive caster). Its probably better to keep what you have as they are generally a good caliper too.


#206 _LXSLR5000_

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 09:50 AM

The UC upper control arm won't help with brake clearance, will likely still need a small amount of notching. I like the HZ calipers as they are a little lighter (and possibly better looking) but still a good caliper. However they will need modification to fit, and possibly also a change to Harrop/A9X steering arms which are expensive (but good for lots of positive caster). Its probably better to keep what you have as they are generally a good caliper too.


I presume the HZ caliper mod is grinding for tie rod clearance?

Edited by LXSLR5000, 12 April 2016 - 09:52 AM.

#207 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 12:54 PM

Yes


#208 _LXSLR5000_

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 01:14 PM

Cool. Thanks for the info.

#209 _lcrb30_

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 07:50 PM

HELP needed I did the brake up grade and have noticed at full lock and at full extension the brake line sits under the bump stop mount I know when driving this may not happen but you never know. I did notice on the yellow lj has no bump stop mount do people just cut them off??? or do I try and retain the mount and modify it???

Attached Files


#210 ribz0

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Posted 18 August 2016 - 11:04 AM

Hi ya Jonas...

I had the same issue with mine.... I ended up cutting it off.... still has a top and bottom stop....

Looks like you are using the cast girlock callipiers... can you put up a pic of your brake pad retaining clip please? Im using the same and my retaining clip keeps twisting and rubbing on the disc hub which makes a horrible noise.... I have put a pic and question up but not much has come back... just wanted to see if I was doing something wrong....

Cheers


#211 Dodgey

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Posted 22 August 2016 - 12:14 AM

I haven't had any problems with my similar LC setup. However spring rate and ride height may make a difference. This is my brake line position at full droop.

 

Attached File  P1350743.jpg   138.63K   27 downloads 

 

 


#212 ribz0

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Posted 22 August 2016 - 08:50 AM

hi ya Steve...

What caliper are you using? Im using the same as Jonas... cast Girlocks...

Cheers


Edited by ribz0, 22 August 2016 - 08:52 AM.

#213 Dodgey

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Posted 22 August 2016 - 08:28 PM

Hi Eric,

I'm using the PBR caliper

 

Steve


#214 ribz0

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 09:00 AM

ok thanks... are they the alloy ones of HZ's and the like?

Cheers


#215 dattoman

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 09:05 AM

Look like cast iron HQ style to me


#216 ribz0

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 09:14 AM

they do look like cast... how many types of caliper came out in the HQ-Z range?

 

This is the prob im having with mine... the bloody retaining clip keeps twisting....

 

brake%20pad%20retainer_zpsqzqpdttf.jpg

 

I have taken them off for now....


#217 dattoman

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 08:17 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...rviki-calipers/


#218 Dodgey

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 09:05 PM

yeah, as dattoman said - HQ cast iron


#219 RallyRed

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 04:05 PM

Hi Steve.
Just a quick question if I can mate ...I saw above regarding the HQ brakes on LC. Im doing the mod now. There was chatter about the hose getting in the way of the bump stop.
My LJ doesnt have the lower bumpstop / rubber anyway ( I think Tom took them out as part of the upgrade). Dont think you have them either? Have you ever had any issues now its a few years down the track.

I had to take a smidge off the cast iron caliper top,as it was j u s t touching the inner radius of the wheel.

Are there any pics of the cut out required in the top bumpstop? ( to clear the caliper when on full lock).

Apologies if this has been previously asked.

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Edited by RallyRed, 04 February 2018 - 04:20 PM.

#220 RallyRed

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 05:55 PM

.

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Edited by RallyRed, 04 February 2018 - 06:01 PM.

#221 RallyRed

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 05:57 PM

Hi all,

 

Is it required to slice a little away from the upper bumpstop, so the caliper doesn't foul on full lock.

 

 


#222 Dodgey

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 09:23 PM

Hi Col

Sorry I didn't see this earlier.

Shouldn't be a clearance problem with the bumpstop.

Do you have the caliper mounted forward of the disk or behind the disk (if that makes sense)? Should be on the trailing side of the disk.

Steve


#223 RallyRed

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 09:42 PM

No dramas,

 

...on the rear of the disc ( i.e. rearward of the spindle)....same place and orientation as the original Girlock caliper.


Edited by RallyRed, 05 February 2018 - 09:49 PM.

#224 gtrboyy

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 10:26 PM

Stub axles go on the opposite sides & steering arms changed over??????????????

 

Been that long can't remember correctly.


#225 Torana_Boy

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 05:46 AM

When the HQ rotors are machined down is it to the same diameter as the original torana ones or do they end up slightly bigger? (I think I read 270mm diameter somewhere)
I’m pretty sure the machine shop took 6mm off the diameter of mine and not the radius, so now the disc drags on the calliper.

Otherwise clearance for the hq PBR calliper on the Uc stubs was relitivley easy.
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