does anyone have some advice on how to get bottom ball joints back in.. seems the new do not want to go in
bottom ball joints
Started by
blown308
, Jul 08 2007 08:16 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 08 July 2007 - 08:16 PM
#2
Posted 08 July 2007 - 08:41 PM
Do you mean how to get new ball joints into the lower control arms? if so I have always used a press and a couple of appropriately sized bits of steel pipe.
If you mean getting the lower balljoints back into the bottom of the stub axle, I have always usd a trolley jack under the lower balljoint to get them back in.
M@
If you mean getting the lower balljoints back into the bottom of the stub axle, I have always usd a trolley jack under the lower balljoint to get them back in.
M@
#3
Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:17 AM
This is how I change lower ball joints. Have never had to remove a control arm.
Jack up car under front "x" member, loosen ball joint securing nut but leave on by full thread of nut.
Smack the stub until the taper lets go.
Lower car and put a brick or blocks under the lower control arm of the B/J you are changing, keep blocks clear of B/J.
The weight is now back on the spring.
Undo B/J nut, lift stub assy off B/J and tie up to something.
Hit the B/J out of the lower control arm. They are an interference fit, a few hard whacks and it should come out.
Depending on your new B/J, I file the lead a bit just to take the ridge off it. Oil up the B/J and the hole on the control arm.
Fit B/J to lower control arm and tap it in and centralize it.
Jack the car up under the "X" member, your shocker should still retain the spring, position your block under the B/J and put the weight back on the B/J.
Using a suitable drift, hit the lower control arm down onto the B/J until seated.
A suitable drift being anything you can find and hit with confidence that you are not going to damage the control arm.
Monitor the progress of the B/J and adjust the position of your block if necessary to avoid cocking.
Reassemble.
I used to change a couple of sets a week like this.
Good luck
Jack up car under front "x" member, loosen ball joint securing nut but leave on by full thread of nut.
Smack the stub until the taper lets go.
Lower car and put a brick or blocks under the lower control arm of the B/J you are changing, keep blocks clear of B/J.
The weight is now back on the spring.
Undo B/J nut, lift stub assy off B/J and tie up to something.
Hit the B/J out of the lower control arm. They are an interference fit, a few hard whacks and it should come out.
Depending on your new B/J, I file the lead a bit just to take the ridge off it. Oil up the B/J and the hole on the control arm.
Fit B/J to lower control arm and tap it in and centralize it.
Jack the car up under the "X" member, your shocker should still retain the spring, position your block under the B/J and put the weight back on the B/J.
Using a suitable drift, hit the lower control arm down onto the B/J until seated.
A suitable drift being anything you can find and hit with confidence that you are not going to damage the control arm.
Monitor the progress of the B/J and adjust the position of your block if necessary to avoid cocking.
Reassemble.
I used to change a couple of sets a week like this.
Good luck
#4
Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:38 AM
I wonder if that's why there were so many front ends with hammer marks on the lower control arms and cracks around the balljoint flange when I was looking for a good pair a couple of years ago. People doing that but just slogging directly onto the control arm with the hammer.
#5
Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:51 AM
Is there a correct position they should face, like say a piston has a "to front" mark or is any position correct, after having two let go on a low Km lowered torana and looking into ball joints of late i wonder if i missed something.
#6
Posted 11 July 2007 - 07:56 PM
these are in a HR front end, but they are the same ball joints that go into a torana, but I cannot get them in.. I have put in freezer, use grease etc. but still not luck.. I can see that I can going to have to pull off the lower control arms and have them pressed in.. seems my only solution as I have tried all the above.......thanks guys rgds wayne
#7
Posted 11 July 2007 - 08:46 PM
To get them out I put a brick under the bottom of the balljoint and then whack a piece of fire wood on the edge of the arm with a sledge hammer...I'm not a huge fan of striking suspension pieces with hammers.
To put them in..a lump of wood under the arm, and a piece of pipe that fits over the joint (filed and lubed like rodomo said) and whack the pipe with said huge sledgy.
What suburb are you in?
To put them in..a lump of wood under the arm, and a piece of pipe that fits over the joint (filed and lubed like rodomo said) and whack the pipe with said huge sledgy.
What suburb are you in?
Edited by FastEHHolden, 11 July 2007 - 08:47 PM.
#8
Posted 11 July 2007 - 11:48 PM
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