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putting clear over solid acrylic colours


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#1 _gtr161s_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:58 PM

Just finished spraying my car (rally red lc gtr) and want some thoughts on whether spraying clear over it would make it any better

My paint/panel supplier is saying no as it isnt needed and that it is more detrimental to the paint?

If i dont need clear i was going to cut it back with 2000 wet then buff, it has 7 coats.

#2 _MYLJ_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 02:06 PM

I always put clear over the top of any acrylic colour........

impo. it gives a better deeper looking shine to the colour , (when cut and buffed)

#3 _gtr161s_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 04:31 PM

mylj - before you apply the clear do you cut back any orange peal?

#4 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 04:57 PM

yes use a soft block and 2000 wet/dry with a dash of dish washing liqued only rub in one direction .watch you dont rub through the edges then after you rubbed the hole car back give it a good wash and tack rag it off ,then its ready for clear :rockon:

Edited by dave720gtr, 21 September 2007 - 04:58 PM.


#5 _gtr161s_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 06:39 PM

dave720gtr - you have me curious about rubbing one direction. Does that also mean no circular rubbing and or avoid a criss cross rubbing?

#6 REDA9X

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 06:48 PM

With solid acrylic, your painter is correct, there is no need for clear, if it was metallic, then you need it. That however doesn't mean you can't do it, but I can't really see the advantage to it.

#7 _gtr161s_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 06:51 PM

reda9x - in saying that would you only be achieving more layers which would avoid polishing colour?

#8 REDA9X

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 07:10 PM

Yep, pretty much. It might offer some more protection too from say bird crap. You could sand it out and reapply clear I guess without damaging the paint...in theory.

#9 _ronaldoredsox_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 07:20 PM

My Salamanca Red XU1 has a number of coats of clear over it and i really think it makes a difference. A different spray painter to the one who painted it saw it this week (the guy who did my mandarin red hatch) and commented that the clear really made it better. Smoother finish and better shine. He is now going to use clear on my other XU1 he is painting next week based on seeing the other one.

#10 _rorym_

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 07:24 PM

This man has WWWWAAAYYY too many cars!!! :huh:
R

#11 hatchssv8

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 02:23 PM

You cannot have way too many cars (read Toranas)

#12 _gtr161s_

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 05:12 PM

had another chat with one of the guys at my panel shop an he's all for laying clear over solids.

he said it gives you more protection against scratching the colour and more depth, so in a month i'll be cutting back with 1500 then clear then cut then buff

#13 GTR-1

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Posted 28 September 2007 - 06:25 PM

had another chat with one of the guys at my panel shop an he's all for laying clear over solids.

he said it gives you more protection against scratching the colour and more depth, so in a month i'll be cutting back with 1500 then clear then cut then buff

I would always recommend to put clear over solid acrylic colours, the clear coat prevents the colour from oxidizing.

#14 _gtr161s_

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Posted 28 September 2007 - 10:54 PM

GTR-1...what prep do you recommend before spraying clear over acrylic?

#15 GTR-1

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Posted 29 September 2007 - 08:13 AM

GTR-1...what prep do you recommend before spraying clear over acrylic?

Before I mention anything i need to know how long the colour has been on the car.
On what date did you apply the last coat of colour?
How many coats of colour did you apply, did you sand betwwen coats?

I presume you are going to use Acrylic clear? MAKE SURE YOU DO!

#16 Peter UC

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Posted 29 September 2007 - 09:38 AM

How many coats of clear do people recommend? And how many litres of clear does this translate to?

#17 _gtr161s_

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 08:28 PM

gtr-1 - ive laid on about 7 coats of acrylic (100/150 ratio), no sanding between coats. I started and finished painting 21/9/07.

Im heading away for work over the next month so i wont be touching the car until the 1st week in november.

Will this be ok to cut back and apply the clear around november and if so what grade of paper should i use. Anything else i may not be aware feel free to add your comments.

Kev

#18 GTR-1

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Posted 01 October 2007 - 02:24 PM

gtr-1 - ive laid on about 7 coats of acrylic (100/150 ratio), no sanding between coats. I started and finished painting 21/9/07.

Im heading away for work over the next month so i wont be touching the car until the 1st week in november.

Will this be ok to cut back and apply the clear around november and if so what grade of paper should i use. Anything else i may not be aware feel free to add your comments.

Kev

Since you are not going to be working on it for a while It might be wise to cover the car just to try and keep it dust-free. As much as you can. Using the misses best satin bed sheet will be perfect

Before you start MAKE SURE the Beer fridge is CHOCKA!. You're gonna need it.

You are going to have to lightly sand the car back with 1500. Don't go crazy here, you don't want to sand through.
Do the usual. Prepsol, blow off, tack rag.
Lay down 2-3 nice even coats of colour, just to fill the sanding marks. If you are happy with how the colour is sitting you can begin to clear it out.. Put down 4-5 coats of clear. I would be tempted to use a bit of "slow drying' thinner in the clear (espically if the air temp levels are getting up a bit) This will help the clear flow out a lot more and help it retain it's gloss.
Let the car sit for a couple of days then flat back with 1500 grit using plenty of clean water. Cleaning up the "rubbing slops" as you go. Be careful, take your time and don't sand through to the colour.

Do the usual again, prepsol, blow off, tack rag.
Put down another 4-5 coats of clear, (againg using a bit of slow drying thinner). Let the car sit for at least a week. Using 1500 grit flat the car back removing all the "orange peel".

Buff-up to a shine. I like to use Farecla G3 (with a bit of water) and a variable speed buff.

There is one thing every painter should know. 80% of a Good Paint Job is PREP WORK.

#19 _gtr161s_

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Posted 01 October 2007 - 04:06 PM

gtr-1, thanks for those tips. Now the only thing that will change your process is that ive already put the stripes on the car.

Instead of the colour coats after 1500 wet could i wet rub 2000 then clear as per your clear process?

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=21275

Edited by gtr161s, 01 October 2007 - 04:07 PM.


#20 _@milco@_

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Posted 01 October 2007 - 04:47 PM

i have heard from a few painters using two pack clear over arcylic is the go and it will glow like the sun and be faily hard so you get some protection .........

there is a special way to apply the 2k to the acrylic tho, just after the last coat of color has gone one and just as it tacks off it's a bit of a art form apparently...

#21 _Pete_

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Posted 01 October 2007 - 05:12 PM

Thats also a one way ticket to Delamination as well!!!

If you've already gone to the trouble of preparing an Acrylic job you may as well do as GTR-1 has suggested and go the extra steps and enjoy the final result of the beautiful lustre that a well executed Lacquer finish can provide.

2K over acrylic is a waste of time, if you wanted a 2K finish then its no dearer to buy a 2K basecoat colour and rest in the knowledge that it will be fine 6 months down the road. Rather than the eventual problems that 2K over acrylic will have like sinkback, crowsfeet, De-lamination etc.

May as well leave those techniques to the caryards.....

#22 GTR-1

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Posted 01 October 2007 - 05:25 PM

gtr-1, thanks for those tips. Now the only thing that will change your process is that ive already put the stripes on the car.

Instead of the colour coats after 1500 wet could i wet rub 2000 then clear as per your clear process?

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=21275

Just looked at your pics. I'm impressed, looks like you know what you are doing.

Yes, you can do.
The reason why I like to colour up is it only takes one piece of grit while sanding to put a scratch in the paint (and will usually occur on the bonnet). And the colour will always look better beneath the clear if you can eliminate the orange peel effect.

#23 GTR-1

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Posted 01 October 2007 - 05:28 PM

Thats also a one way ticket to Delamination as well!!!

If you've already gone to the trouble of preparing an Acrylic job you may as well do as GTR-1 has suggested and go the extra steps and enjoy the final result of the beautiful lustre that a well executed Lacquer finish can provide.

2K over acrylic is a waste of time, if you wanted a 2K finish then its no dearer to buy a 2K basecoat colour and rest in the knowledge that it will be fine 6 months down the road. Rather than the eventual problems that 2K over acrylic will have like sinkback, crowsfeet, De-lamination etc.

May as well leave those techniques to the caryards.....

Couldn't of said it better myself.

#24 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 30 October 2007 - 09:13 PM

Clear, even on solid colours gives heaps more depth. I reckon it makes it look like you have 2-3 times the amount of paint on the car.

We were told by the paint shop to mix 50/50 solid & clear to avoid shadowing in the clear coat, so that's what we did. Worked a treat, we just took the dudes word for it, as he was a tradey selling the paint, and we weren't. I'll keep doing it that way till I hear different.

#25 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 30 October 2007 - 09:25 PM

Wish Pete the spraypainter was still here, he'd clear up the issue. Ooooh, Pete is still here. Pete, can we have your 20c worth? I'd be interested to know. Is the shadowing issue just for young players?

Edited by Yella SLuR, 30 October 2007 - 09:27 PM.





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