Does any know if u can still buy these points?
#1 _tweetytorana_
Posted 13 July 2008 - 08:03 PM
I usually find the Bosch XU1 GB534V points last longer than the GB534 (which gave me 8 weeks last go) and my husband has run them in his EK when he was drag racing (red 186). Bursons told him this week that they're no longer made so just wondering where to look? Is there an alternative being made by anyone else ?
Cheers
#2
Posted 13 July 2008 - 08:06 PM
GAME OVER!!!!!!
#3
Posted 13 July 2008 - 09:39 PM
maybe you need to replace the condenser?
#4 _tweetytorana_
Posted 13 July 2008 - 09:41 PM
I emailed Bosch - just waiting on a reply.
#5 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 13 July 2008 - 09:46 PM
+1 with the electronic dizzy, drop in replacement, just need to jumper one wire.Look for electronic dizzy
GAME OVER!!!!!!
Steve
#6
Posted 13 July 2008 - 09:49 PM
Yes, these items should go hand in hand.How did they fail?
maybe you need to replace the condenser?
Also, make sure hubby opens the point prior to fitting and cleans the points surfaces. They have a coating that if not cleaned, can cause non-coductivity through them.
#7 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 13 July 2008 - 10:09 PM
Sounds like an obvious one but some people keep forgetting, like my father when he does the points on the ol Mazda lol.
#8
Posted 13 July 2008 - 10:57 PM
The only difference between GB534V & GB534 is that the 'V' means ventilated.
The jury is still out on whether they were any better or just an advertising gimmick. I've found that V type point didn't really last any longer than normal points.
In the 70s & 80s we used to fit dozens of sets of points per week & we soon learned which type of points worked better & lasted longer & why.
You should get at least 10,000 km out of any set of points. 8 weeks seems way too short. What is happening, are the contacts burning, or is the rubbing block wearing out.
The four things I would add here is:-
1. Is your coil & ignition wiring factory standard? Any increase in points current because of so-called high performance 'sports' replacement coils or any change to ballast wiring can cause serious loss of contacts life. Make sure your coil is the original type (or a GT40R) & check the voltage at the coil + at idle (should be 8 to 9 volts max).
2. A bad condensor can cause problems. Get the condensor checked, but don't rush into replacing it, because a factory original (or original Bosch) one will often be better than some current (probably Chinese) replacement.
3. The original points for the XU-1 are GB752, not GB534. GB534 are just standard points, whereas the GB752 are the high performance type with higher spring tension. All XU-1s came from the factory with GB752. The contacts themselves are no better, but with more tension they exhibit less 'points bounce' at high RPM. They look virtually identical but can be identified by the red 'dot' on the pivot. The condition of the dissy cam as well as the right type of grease is even more critical with higher spring tension.
4. If you're doing heaps of mileage or originality is not your thing, put the XU-1 dissy in the cupboard & fit a Bosch HEI system. Much better for day-to-day driving & just set & forget.
Dr Terry
#9 _tweetytorana_
Posted 14 July 2008 - 09:02 PM
Bosch coil, condensor replaced, everything else is stock.
The others were burning out - looking into voltage as that's the only angle we haven't tried.
Funny thing is hunting for points the other day DH took the points from a different drag motor and they have the red dot - now we know which ones they are (and working wonderfully ATM).
cheers, Jo
#10
Posted 14 July 2008 - 11:30 PM
#11 _threeblindmice_
Posted 27 April 2015 - 12:50 PM
An old thread on Points
#12
Posted 27 April 2015 - 03:16 PM
I see your point.
all points should point in the direction of the points thread.
#13
Posted 27 April 2015 - 04:43 PM
Was reading old book on magnetos and the care of magnetos,in this book it said that the points contacts were made of a tungsten type material and it was recommended to not to go too far when cleaning or you would break through the protective layer,should imagine that on a points dizzy that they would have used a similar material but these days who knows what or even how much of what they use to protect the points contacts.
From what i understand the condenser is there to prevent back EMF over the point gap when open to stop an arc between the point
gap,even though there will be a "minimal" arc with the correct value condenser in place the cleaning of the points i should imagine
would not be a very regular event.
Has anyone ever noticed that when they cleaned a non vented set of points that on one contact there would be a "high spot" and on the other contact a low "spot",usually fairly central to center of the contacts,i think this is why they "vented" them?
As already mentioned,the condenser,even though it may seem the "right one" the only way to be sure i think these days is to find
out the value of it for the application and actually measure it to be sure,but if it was that far out you would expect a performance loss?
If the condenser is correct it only means that whatever material they use to prevent burn out of points is not up to scratch?
Or, maybe the coil/condenser is not matched or a bit of everything ?....a bit of good grease is good on the rubbing block of the points,some "smart" manufactures even put a little felt strip in that area as well?
The coil/condenser circuit is in some circles known as a tuned circuit to some degree?
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