Leadwiping
#1
Posted 08 November 2005 - 12:21 PM
And is it easy to learn?
#2 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 08 November 2005 - 01:26 PM
Our resto teacher did briefly advise us how it is done, blow torch/oxy, block of lead and a scraper.
#3 _smiley_
Posted 08 November 2005 - 02:49 PM
#4 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 08 November 2005 - 03:04 PM
#5
Posted 08 November 2005 - 03:28 PM
Thanks anyway Yella SLuR
Edited by LC69GTR, 08 November 2005 - 03:28 PM.
#6 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 08 November 2005 - 03:54 PM
#7
Posted 08 November 2005 - 04:52 PM
I guess i better start mixing the bog up
#8 _finer70_
Posted 08 November 2005 - 05:39 PM
The banning of commercial lead wiping had NOTHING to do with the GREENIES.
Without seeming to defend them, if you are going to blame someone be accurate.
It has a lot to do with Occupational Health & Safety. The fumes from molten lead are toxic and given enough it WILL KILL YOU.
So following sound OH&S controls using the Hierachy of Control, Substitution using bog is a more friendly alternative.
As for Lead holding any car together !!!!!. The lead wiping was only a cosmetic used to restores surface finish.
LC & LJ's had lead wiping on the nose cone at each guard and the turret joint at the rear but the joints were first spot welded.
Given sound panel repair using appropriate welding techniques, there is no reason to want to use lead. The necessary removal of fluxes that are acidic and a
medium to initiate rust is another good reason not to use it.
By 6he way Is it easy to learn? No it takes many housrs of practice.
Edited by finer70, 08 November 2005 - 05:43 PM.
#9 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 08 November 2005 - 07:05 PM
Yes, correct, cosmetic filler. Old fella's claim it used to stick to panels and move better with the metal than newer acrylic fillers. Bog works for me. The key to getting bog to work is to provide a good keyed surface, i.e. correct sanding technique.
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS
Brainiac Inspired - Just as a little experiment, try sanding some bog, let the dust flow out of your hand and stick a cigarette lighter next to it......The shit's highly flammable.
GREENIES - Any do gooder, I don't discriminate! n. a term used to describe a person not capable of doing anything practical themselves that seek to stop any other person from doing stuff thus restore the balance.
On a serious note, I like my bog. As with all things, they develop with time. I still remember the first acrylic house paints that used to wash off the wall!!!
Edited by Yella SLuR, 08 November 2005 - 07:24 PM.
#10 _smiley_
Posted 08 November 2005 - 08:55 PM
#11
Posted 08 November 2005 - 10:14 PM
Yes but you have to submit an environmental impact statement first and throwing them at the fish is definitely forbidden. (Throwing them at greenies however is permissible as long as you yell "fore" first)Haven't been fishing for a while, are you still allowed to use lead sinkers?
#12 _Fairdinkum_
Posted 09 November 2005 - 10:19 AM
#13 _ToranaGuy_
Posted 09 November 2005 - 11:46 AM
ROFLMFAO!Yes but you have to submit an environmental impact statement first and throwing them at the fish is definitely forbidden. (Throwing them at greenies however is permissible as long as you yell "fore" first)Haven't been fishing for a while, are you still allowed to use lead sinkers?
That's damn funny!
The thing is, if you can leadwipe stil, where the hell would you get the lead to do it?
Something i just thought of, anyone wanna write up an article on how to bog properly, as if a good job is done, the results come out good.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
#14 _Herne_
Posted 09 November 2005 - 12:05 PM
The guy from Sydney Restorations in Crookwell gives a lead wiping demo when the shows clubs around his workshop.
He explains what has been done to the lead content and its effects, something like "it still works but not as good as it used to"...
Now maybe he is wrong or possibly I am with my line of thinking but anyone going there should ask him for a demo on lead wiping and I am sure he wil explain it all in some depth as he did with us.
Cheers
Herne
#15 _Fairdinkum_
Posted 09 November 2005 - 12:20 PM
#16 _Herne_
Posted 09 November 2005 - 01:21 PM
Cheers
Herne
#17 _Fairdinkum_
Posted 09 November 2005 - 01:31 PM
#18 _ToranaGuy_
Posted 09 November 2005 - 10:34 PM
I wonder when GMH stopped the practice?
Cheers
ToranaGuy
#19 _workinprogress_
Posted 10 November 2005 - 03:12 PM
#20 _purpleLC_
Posted 13 November 2005 - 08:29 PM
The lead is mixed with tin and you can get different percentages of tin/lead
rods.
Louie
#21 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 13 November 2005 - 08:45 PM
For the basics there is also a good book at Supercheap (hate that word). It's a Gregory's or something. There's one on panelbeating, and one on spraypainting, about $20 each. Both have pretty good information on how you go about stuff.
All the above should only require a think skim of bog, rather than 5-10mm thick like what your proposing sounds like.
#22
Posted 15 November 2005 - 04:32 PM
ToranaGuy
Yes i would say all earlier cars have lead wipe in them (panel joins etc) and the reason they stopped this practice is because now it is all about profit
it would take half the time to bog the joins than lead wiping so that what they do
remember they dont build em like they used to
cheers
dave
#23 _gm3300_
Posted 15 November 2005 - 05:11 PM
trims or behind the bumpers. When was the last time a
car was made that had a front or back valence panel
(probably a UC as a guess).
davelh, that haven't outlawed soldering yet, but they
do sell lead free stuff.
grant
#24 _lonemonaro_
Posted 24 November 2005 - 05:45 PM
I have never done Lead wiping, but I have seen it done and it's brilliant. I was surprised at how easy it is done by an experienced hand. Body filler does have it's place, but I would like option of lead wiping to be left open.
The Lead wiping that I saw, they were using normal Solder Sticks that every Hardware sells.
Hardware shops sell Solder Sticks lengths of about 12 inches long, and as 60/40 or 50/50.
That is the ratio of "TIN to LEAD" ; ie 60% TIN to 40% LEAD.
50% TIN to 50% LEAD, has a lower melting temperature to melt when soldering.
It is more convenient for people to use body filler compared to Lead wiping, because it is easier and faster.
Any soldering or Lead wiping involves a correctly Temperatured Hot Copper soldering Iron, Sal Ammoniac to "Tin" your Copper soldering Iron, Flux, Spirits of Salts [ Hydrochloric Acid ] to etch and prepare the site to be soldered and a damp leather patch on a piece of board to smooth out the solder in Lead wiping.
No wonder people prefer to use body filler, as it's less involved.
Kind regards
George
Edited by lonemonaro, 24 November 2005 - 05:47 PM.
#25
Posted 24 November 2005 - 06:55 PM
The way he put it to me to repair a hit to any car, is to reverse the impact. You need to undo the damage to the metal by shrinking or stretching the metal back into place using heat, hammers and dollies etc.
He restores cars to original, currently he;s working on a Mustang, a Karman Ghia, and an EH!
He's been a circuit racer/hillclimb champ in the past and knows his stuff. he is also the one who teached the automotive body repair short course and i'll be doing that after this welding course! TIne to get moving on repairing my torana i think
People like this, and skills like leadwiping should be learnt by us younger generation lest we loose these skills as the old guys die out!
I'm sick of bog... I want to try and do the torry the right way! And learn a new skill in the process
Cheers!
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