Jump to content


FACTORY LH SWAYBAR REPLACEMENT


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 _LH SLR 3300_

_LH SLR 3300_
  • Guests

Posted 03 September 2008 - 10:05 PM

After blasting, prepping & painting my factory LH SLR swaybars I have discovered that the rear won't bolt up to the control arms as it won't clear the centre of the 9inch diff housing & the front won't clear my Pacemaker EFI extractors. Not having much luck with aftermarket suppliers, when I mention I want parts for a Torana I can't get straight answers, it seems the people I speak to don't know enough about their own products. What i'm trying to find out is which aftermarket swaybars will bolt up in a similar style to the factory ones but will clear my diff & extractors. Can anyone help? any advice would be appreciated.

#2 GML-31

GML-31

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,239 posts
  • Name:Kev
  • Location:Highland Park
  • Car:too many
  • Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 03 September 2008 - 11:16 PM

you may have to make spacers for the front swaybar out of plastic breadboard, and use longer u-bolts
have you tried the rear one upside down, sometimes they fit

#3 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 04 September 2008 - 12:26 AM

Front

1. Use a spacer with this existing swaybar. This can cause clearance problems on low car. I had a 5 mm spacer to clear the Geni Extractors on my 308.

2. K-Mac front mount adjustable. Can have problems with pulley clearance depending on type of pulleys fitted to harmonic balancer. ( I have one if you want measurements or pictures. )

3. Whiteline front mount adjustable. I have not fitted one, it would be wise to check pulley clearance before ordering. I do not think that you can have brake ducts with this bar.

Rear

1. Re-drill the rear swaybar mounts in the trailing arms about 10 mm further back to clear the 9". ( I had McDonald Bros tubular arms setup this way. )

2. Fit the UC style swaybar that is made by K-Mac and Whiteline. Check your mufflers are not in the way of the drop links which bolt to the upper trailing arm body mount and specify U-Bolts to suit a 9". ( I have a K-Mac swaybar if you want measurements or pictures. )

3. The K-Mac rear mount rear swaybar however does not really leave any room for an exhaust. ( I have one if you want measurements or pictures. )

4. K-Mac list a replacement bar. You could ask if they can make it with the mount holes about 10 mm further forward so it clears the 9" with the trailing arm mount holes in the standard position.

You will find some pictures and prices in this thread.
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=17278

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 04 September 2008 - 12:31 AM.


#4 76lxhatch

76lxhatch

    That was easy!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,153 posts
  • Location:Unzud
  • Car:SS
  • Joined: 04-August 08
Garage View Garage

Posted 04 September 2008 - 07:15 AM

3. Whiteline front mount adjustable. I have not fitted one, it would be wise to check pulley clearance before ordering. I do not think that you can have brake ducts with this bar.

I have a Whiteline front mount (non-adjustable), I doubt pulley clearance would ever be an issue but you'd be right about the brake ducts. It does work well though.

#5 _LH SLR 3300_

_LH SLR 3300_
  • Guests

Posted 04 September 2008 - 05:03 PM

Front

1. Use a spacer with this existing swaybar. This can cause clearance problems on low car. I had a 5 mm spacer to clear the Geni Extractors on my 308.

2. K-Mac front mount adjustable. Can have problems with pulley clearance depending on type of pulleys fitted to harmonic balancer. ( I have one if you want measurements or pictures. )

3. Whiteline front mount adjustable. I have not fitted one, it would be wise to check pulley clearance before ordering. I do not think that you can have brake ducts with this bar.

Rear

1. Re-drill the rear swaybar mounts in the trailing arms about 10 mm further back to clear the 9". ( I had McDonald Bros tubular arms setup this way. )

2. Fit the UC style swaybar that is made by K-Mac and Whiteline. Check your mufflers are not in the way of the drop links which bolt to the upper trailing arm body mount and specify U-Bolts to suit a 9". ( I have a K-Mac swaybar if you want measurements or pictures. )

3. The K-Mac rear mount rear swaybar however does not really leave any room for an exhaust. ( I have one if you want measurements or pictures. )

4. K-Mac list a replacement bar. You could ask if they can make it with the mount holes about 10 mm further forward so it clears the 9" with the trailing arm mount holes in the standard position.

You will find some pictures and prices in this thread.
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=17278

Hey thanks for the info Ground clearance may be an issue when lowering the front mounting points on the x-member my Torana has a TH350 trans with a B&M deep pan on it & that is pretty close to the ground I take speed humps REAL slow driving it. Guess I might look into a front mount though I've been told I have to drill holes in my freshly painted control arms OUCH pulley clearance shouldn't be an issue as my engine runs factory V8 Torana pulleys alternator bracket & fan belt. Might try your suggestion of relocating the rear bar mounts back though I'm begining to wish I'd tried fitting it before I had the exhaust done as the tail pipes run under the diff & sit fairly close to the axle tubes. Live & learn I guess Will post pics of the car soon hopefully with swaybars in place Thanks again

#6 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 04 September 2008 - 05:14 PM

If you have room for the UC style rear swaybar that would be a better option than the trailing arm mounted swaybar. The trailing arm mounted bar is better than nothing but not as good as the UC style or rear mount bar.

#7 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 04 September 2008 - 08:54 PM

Hey thanks for the info Ground clearance may be an issue when lowering the front mounting points on the x-member my Torana has a TH350 trans with a B&M deep pan on it & that is pretty close to the ground I take speed humps REAL slow driving it. Guess I might look into a front mount though I've been told I have to drill holes in my freshly painted control arms OUCH pulley clearance shouldn't be an issue as my engine runs factory V8 Torana pulleys alternator bracket & fan belt. Might try your suggestion of relocating the rear bar mounts back though I'm begining to wish I'd tried fitting it before I had the exhaust done as the tail pipes run under the diff & sit fairly close to the axle tubes. Live & learn I guess Will post pics of the car soon hopefully with swaybars in place Thanks again

If you have UC lower control arms then you have to grind off the steering stops and drill two holes to mount the front mount K-Mac bar. The LX lower control arms do not have the steering stops so it is just a matter of drilling two holes.

Spacing the existing front swaybar may be a good option to prevent you hitting the pan on the TH350.

This is a picture of a whiteline swaybar with spacers on Welby's race car from this thread. You can also see the holes in the lower control arm where the K-Mac front mount swaybar was fitted.

Posted Image

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 04 September 2008 - 08:55 PM.


#8 _LH SLR 3300_

_LH SLR 3300_
  • Guests

Posted 05 September 2008 - 04:42 PM

My Torana is all rebuilt factory original LH with the exception of HQ discs & HZ Girlock alloy calipers fitted on modified drum brake stub axles so I shouldn't have to grind anything. Still the spacers fitted to the Red Torana seem to be a more appealing idea to me than a front mount bar, i'm guessing this mod doesn't alter or affect the way the swaybar functions, you made a good point about this mod saving my trans sump I'd rather replace u-bolts & bushes than snap a fin off my sump or worse, also it means I should only need to source a rear swaybar. Thanks heaps for your info & pics , they have been very helpful. I wish I'd know of this forum when I started my Torana resto, I've wasted alot of time & money on parts & services I didn't need.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users