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[Torviki] Centrally Lock Me!


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#1 Joshua

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 10:37 PM

Article title: Centrally Lock Me!
Article description: central locking in your torana
Category: General LH-LX-UC
Date added: Nov 5 2008, 10:37 PM
Article starter: Joshua

so you want to install central locking?

well here's my guide

first off you need a kit, this will include the little computery bit, some wires, motory things and misc screws and mounting gear!
i'm using a dicksmith kit, mines a few years old but you can pick up a new one for 22$ or get a kit from jaycar for something like 50$
you'll also need some ruber gromets to put in the holes you drill for teh wires to go through, mine kit only had four where as i needed eight
so off to the store to make up the difference.

you have your kit! we'll you're ready to roll.

first you need to remove the door trims, so remove the arm rests, window winders etc.

now we have a bear door, make sure your window winds up and down,
this is important so that clearances can be checked

the wind it up to the top

now the way i did it was to setup the mechanisms then the wiring,
i also removed the spring from the door lock,
this may not be the way you want to do i though. you can do wiring first,
try and leave the springs in etc. so decide now!

remove the locking mechanism, i'm not goign to go into how to do this.
you should be able to figure it out or consult your manual
once you've got it out you've got the two options

the way i did was to remove the spring,
this takes allot of the force out of locking and unlocking the door
it's theoretically means there is also nothing holding it in the unlocked/locked position
but as you will find there is more then enough resistance in the lock and the solenoids to keep it unlocked/locked
so rip the spring out! the put it back in the door..
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time to install the solenoid!
so get it and put the rod in
first i did the fronts, for the fronts i didn't use the adjusting plate thingy,
i just bolted it straight to the door.
what this means is all the adjustment is now in the rod connector thingy
so do a trait fit, by putting the solenoid on the existing locking rod,
the one that does up to the top inside where you unlock and lock the door
the rod should have a little bit of a bend in it, so put the connector thing just above that
and do it all up, make sure the lock and the solenoid are in the same position (locked or unlocked)

so the solenoid should just dangle down the bottom
now this is about where you want to bolt it in
because this is basically parallel, which is what you want so there's no force being wasted in a side movement
now you should test for window clearance, hold the solenoid against the door and wind the window down to the bottom
all misses? good good.. if it hits you've done something wrong and your solenoid needs to go longer,
so move the rod and or connector down etc. till it clears

now marky, drilly and mounty!
and win! you now have central locking, in one door at least...

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the rears are much teh same, i used the mounting/adjusting plate in the, but it has no adjustment to it...
so it's a bit of a waste, picture will show where i mounted it, i had to shorten the rod but this is easy
same thing has to happen with the spring removing! but it's the same concept

now the wires

which i'll add when i've done them
Posted Image
Posted Image

pictures thanks to heath



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Centrally Lock Me!



#2 enderwigginau

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 01:22 PM

Awesome - so the pics go in next? :D

Remember everyone - anyone can edit these articles, so if you have any good pics, whack em in.

Grant..

#3 ToRunYa

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 10:37 AM

i would put my 2c in but my CL still doesnt work properly lol

#4 Heath

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Posted 16 November 2008 - 08:53 PM

Hey Josh just a bit of advice (not sure if you tried or not; may or may not know about it); most digital cameras have a 'macro' setting (makes the focus appropriate for up-close stuff), I use it for close-in technical photos. If you use a Canon, it is a rose pictured button, may be the same on other cameras. Woulda really helped those first two photos.

I've got some spare latches... I will get off my arse and take some appropriate replacement photos that look a bit sharper if you aren't offended :)

#5 Joshua

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Posted 16 November 2008 - 09:13 PM

Hey Josh just a bit of advice (not sure if you tried or not; may or may not know about it); most digital cameras have a 'macro' setting (makes the focus appropriate for up-close stuff), I use it for close-in technical photos. If you use a Canon, it is a rose pictured button, may be the same on other cameras. Woulda really helped those first two photos.

I've got some spare latches... I will get off my arse and take some appropriate replacement photos that look a bit sharper if you aren't offended :)


yeah that would be great, mines back in the car

#6 Marks LXTorana

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 04:32 PM

Just to bring an old thread back to life!

There are 2 types of solenoid - a master (which goes in the front doors so either one will power rest remaining three doors) and a slave (which goes into the rear doors and locking/unlocking it does not power the others). One of the rear solenoids is not working in my car and after changing over to a spare slave, I have the same result. I therefore assume it is the signal wire rather than the rear solenoid.

So my question to the sparkies is how should I test the signal - should I expect a momentary 12v when the lock is engaged? Also I was thinking the easy way to fix it is use the one master solenoid to power both rear slaves, although I hope this does not place too much drain on the solenoid and potentially blow it!

Any suggestions?

#7 Torrii

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 12:15 AM

Very old thread, but I'm new here, so it's new for me!.... and in case anyone is interested in future....

 

For a dodgy slave solenoid I'd recommend testing it out in the position of the other slave solenoid (i.e. try it in the rear door that is still working). This wil tell you if it's the solenoid that's the problem or something else (more likely). Just in case it is the solenoid, since you've had two not working in that position, if it doesn't work in the other rear door, then you may be blowing the solenoids with dodgy wiring to that door.

 

Next check would be to use a multi-meter to test the wires from the control box to the solenoid. Make sure you get almost zero resistance on each wire (put the red and black probes on the end of each wire - if it doesn't reach, just extend with speaker wire and gator clips). if that's not the problem then you probably have a fault in your control box.

 

For me - I'd like to install this in an lx hatch, with a remote. If I need to do major body work, I'd remove and fill in the front door locks, then leave the hatch lock as the master solenoid - just in case the remote battery dies.



#8 ben23

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 07:24 AM

The master actuator (technically not a solenoid as they are a motor with a gear drive) has 3 extra wires. Black, Brown, and White. Black is connected to earth, and Brown and White run back to the central locking module. Inside the actuator there is a SPDT microswitch which earths either the brown or the white wires depending on what position the actuator is in (locked or unlocked) These signals go back to the module and tell it to either lock or unlock the rest of the doors. So when testing, you are looking for a negative (or earth) signal on either of those wires, depending on the state of the actuator.

Also its important to make sure the motor has full travel in both directions otherwise the microswitch might not operate properly. If you have earth to the actuator but one or both signals are missing and you have full travel, replace the actuator. If you have signal at the actuator and none at the module, check the wiring. If you have signal at the module and no operation, replace the module.

 

Another thing is to make sure you use grommets when running wiring through panels.



#9 Marks LXTorana

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Posted 01 December 2019 - 06:42 PM

Reviving an old thread, I am seeking a clear photo of the front door lock mechanism to help me replace the detent spring. Whilst the idea of removing it to assist the solenoid was good, I am finding the driver door is locking itelf continuously which is more annoying than anything (with central locking at least the other doors remain open!).

The photo in this thread is blurry so I cannot see how the spring should sit. Any help would be appreciated!






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