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My kermit the frog green LX 4 door project

Started by _darkone040_ , Dec 01 2008 03:42 PM

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#1 _darkone040_

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 03:42 PM

ok well i said that i would post a topic in this section when i had gotten off my arse an taken a few pictures.. i lied havnt taken the pictures yet but stil am goin to post something up..

umm ive pulled off a bunch of numbers from the engine bay, not sure if im allowed/should post them here but am goin to anyhows..
and was wondering if anyone could tell me about my car, or give me a link so i can figure out myself.. cheers..

LX TORANA SEDAN
9-77 CLXO 54833M
8H69YH J593642X
LX8UH69 : MODEL
593642M : BODY NUMBER
1931 - 60A : TRIM
568 - 30522 : PAINT
ENG L16
TRANS MC6
RRAXLE GU8

ive been told that she was a 4cyl auto.. but now has a 173 red thats been bored and stroked to a 202 and a m21 4 speed in her..
all was done before i got a hold of her so im not sure of the components but they must be pretty good as its a tight engine thats lasted 6 years of my punishmentand stil puts in pretty hard..

the project

i havnt gotten any photos yet but has a straight body.. umm surface rust is comming through the paint basically everywhere.. the bad rust is at the bottom of the nosecone, bottom of some doors, bottom of the door sills (not entirely sure what they are called) the whell arches where mud would of gotten flicked there and got caught there to eat my car.. and one of the rear quater panels look as if its been bogged/ fiberglassed/ siliconed all the way up shit creek.. so the body requires alot of attention.. will get pics as soon as i can..

i live in a block of units and the only car cover i have is a shared carport that barely stops the rain from getting to my car.. so as much as i would like to attempt to do some of the body work myself its just not possible.. and i would rather get it done professionally as i have no experience in this area..

so my plan is to accumeulate all the parts that i need and get it done bit by bit tryin to keep the car on the road for as long as possible as its also my work car..

here is basically the parts i want in the finished car.. other than engine im deffinate about it all.. and all of it i got the ideas from these forums as they all are an effective upgrades from what i have already got.. stil unsure about the suspension setup.. its going to be a daily driver so i want it to be able to steer nicely.. but also if i plant my foot i want her to stick to the ground..

ENGINE:
toyota 2jz gte (stock in the begining then work it to a beast)
350 chev efi
keep my lil 173 and work the hell out of it

GEARBOX:
toyota supra 5 speed r154

DIFFERENTIAL:
nissan skyline r31 diff houseing B/W 78
28 spline singlespinner 3.45 ratio.. can be found in vl commodores.. 86 onwards holdens/fords
need to change the stud patern
change the mounting brackets
tail shaft modded (upgrade?)
lokka http://www.4wdsystem.../html/lokka.htm

BRAKES:
hoppers stoppers front disc upgrade (expensive) http://www.hoppers.com.au/index.html
skyline rear discs..
need to modify master cylinder thingy..

SUSPENSION:
1. UC upper control arms ( unique across the range with the offset balljoint)
2. Any lower control arm ( the manuals do list a few but non of the differences affect the suspension geometry)
3. LH/X UC stub axles (both drum or disc, retaining the 9 degrees KPI)
4. UC steering arms (longer and with slight angle difference at tie rod end)
5. LH/X UC xmember (esuring the holes are in the LX RTS position - Lowermost accross the range)
koni front and rear

WHEELS:
need 15" x 8" wheels all round want hotwires may have to go speedway indys..
need to figure out what adjustment the wheels need..

BODY:
bare metal..
cut and weld all rust..
slightly lighter than the new commodore green metalic..
keep the gpak stripe in almost black dark green also metalic..
keep the black stripe that runs along the bottom under the doors..
black bonnet with the almost black dark green flames on the bonnet..
unsure (black or green) engine bay.. leaning towards green..
slr 5000 body kit (i already have a fibre glass set for it)..
minus the slr bonnet scoop.. i want a forward facing one..
looking at getting a bobtail that when bolted on you cant see the bolt heads..

WHERE TO START:
so right now all ive got for this makeover is really the bodykit which ive had for over 4 years now.. oh and the car too ive got that

as im wanting to do this piece by piece and have the old girl off the road for as little as possible time i really dont know where to start.. im really not made of money and dont want to take out a loan to have to start this project..

IDEAS:
my diff is on its way out.. for the umpteenth time.. so i would like to upgrade that..
for some reason my car had airbags instead of rear shockers and when redoin the suspension we put another pair in there and now one of the airbags has deflated.. where do i go from here.. airbags again or shockers or something far out (coilovers is it possible).. im not sure but i want to make the car safe.. so i want to upgrade that..
ive been told that the carby i have on top of my engine sends too much fuel to it so thats the reason why whenever i plant my foot she coughs an splutters.. its a rochester off of a 253 engine.. so i want a holley 350 with the jets replaced with smaller ones..
the front brakes are fine but i could run through the hoppers stoppers kit but ill be needing to buy a new set of rims also..
i love my hotwires and cant seem to find a set of 15" that will fit over the hoppers kit..

NEED:
disc to disc r31 diff housing with handbrake brackets and cables..
28 spline 3.45 ratio 4 pinion single spinner B/W 78 diff center..
the lokka for the diff center..
new suspension (unsure what yet)..
holley 350 with smaller fuel jets..
hoppers stoppers front disc kit..
15" x 8" x 4 hotwires wheels..

i live in adelaide, south australia so if anyone would happen to know where i would be able to find these parts anywhere nearby i am able to come and pick them up or phone numbers of companies nearby that are able to do the work that i need to get done.. or if you have any tips or information that i could use it would be appreciated.. ive never rebuilt a car before so i really have no idea what i am doing so everything will help..

cheers and i hope to get some pics up as soon as possible..

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#2 76lxhatch

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 06:07 PM

Wow that's one heck of a shopping list, good on ya

I've not long put in a Skyline diff and am quite happy with it so far. You need to ensure it is the six cylinder version so you get the 28 spline axles, and if you get one with a single spinner centre in good nick you can use that and any old BW75 (7.5" crownwheel) 3.45:1 ratio crownwheel and pinion will fit it, probably cheaper and easier to find out of 25 spline diffs.

Looking forward to those pics!

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#3 Toranavista

'Let There Be Rock' 1977

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 06:33 PM

Your car is Panama Green. Only available Sept 1977 onwards so used in the A9X and UC range in Torana's. You car was produced at the same time the A9X Torana's were being produced

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#4 _Curious355_

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 07:12 PM

Mate i looked in my little book and this is what i found, and on the net too. might be out dunno.

LX TORANA SEDAN
9-77 CLXO 54833M
8H69YH J593642X--------------Y=L4 1900cc engine/ H=1978 (build date) / J5=Melbourne assembly plant/ X=LX (model)/ 93642=sequence built built at plant

LX8UH69 : MODEL--------------8UH69=4 door sedan SL
593642M : BODY NUMBER
1931 - 60A : TRIM--------------1931 is berger paint code for Panama green / 60A= Chamois color Vinyl trim
568 - 30522 : PAINT------------30522= Panama Green dulux code
ENG L16
TRANS MC6----------------------4 speed floor shift only in 1900 model
RRAXLE GU8---------------------3.9 to 1 ratio banjo single spinner

Edited by Curious355, 01 December 2008 - 07:14 PM.

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#5 _darkone040_

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 06:24 AM

wow thanks for the info.. hmm i was told by my dad that it probably started out as an auto.. so its good to know that it really was a manual to start with.. yay, ill get a picture of the shifter to show how much it looks out of place in the car.. looks like its an auto center console an such..

ok so i promised pictures..

my baby.. it should have hotwires all round but.. the front ones seem to rub and i actually destroyed a tire this way :( i gotta get that checked out too..

the heart an soul of this little beast..

SLR 5000 body kit.. bonnet scoop is with a mate he wants to put it on his hq 1 tonner.. and the bobtail is an old one i found at a wreckers.. i have another somewhere but i want to get a good one that bolts from the inside or something so you cant see the bolts on the outside..

now for the rust.. urgh..

scariest looking rust part of the car.. it looks to of been repaired but poorly and its all cracked and started eating itself again..

im not sure how its possibly to cut this bit of rust out.. seems like there is no way of getting to it from the other side..

the nosecone has a couple of these holes in it, and the discolouration is from me attacking it with fish oil in hopes for it to stop rusting..

all of the door sills (i think thats what they are called) look like this im afraid to take off the shiny metal plate thats on top of it..

its really blurry but thats the front pass side door and doesnt look very neat.. hasnt eaten through to the otherside.. but looks difficult to fix..

well that all from me for now..

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#6 GML-31

Oh My, Don't you post alot

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Posted 02 December 2008 - 07:56 AM

nice little project, keep the pics coming when you do bits

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#7 _darkone040_

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 11:32 AM

for the first step of the project i want to get the rear end of the car upgraded as my diff housing is past its use by date..
i want to get everything done in the adelaide metroish area..
so i went to Diff and Trans in the city (closest name in the yellowpages) www.diffandtrans.com.au he said he would be able to hook me up with the center to suit my application.. and gave me a number of the guy that does the housing work for him..
Rod - Tech (192 Hampstead Rd Clearview) http://www.rodtech.com.au/.. but hes snowed under until next year..
i havnt called him yet but the website says they manufacture part for hot rods.. doesnt really say that they do differential conversions but it does look like they know about suspension tho..
do any other people have any suggestions where i could go about getting this done..
also with the diff out i want to make a few suspension upgrades, i really have no idea about suspension so what would the best thing to get done to the rear end to make it more stable yet stil let it be good to drive around town all day..

i also want to put a holley 350 on my car and getting it from the outlaw speed shop as ive always wanted to get something from there possibly be getting a set of autometer gauges from there so i am able to tell how warm my car is getting not sure if the dash gauges work or not..

cheers, adrian.

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#8 LXdamo

Still Lurking

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 09:40 AM

I've had a few diff's converted at rod-tech,always had no trouble with them.
they do all sorts of work
i have to drop off some brake rotors there in january to re-drilled.
Sounds like you have a good plan for your car,will be good to see it cruizing around!
Damo

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#9 _darkone040_

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Posted 08 December 2008 - 04:30 PM

awesome at least im heading in the right direction.. im gonna try an go see him tomorrow.. hopefully he will be able to do the entire back end of my car.. diff/suspension and drop tank..
ok ive also been looking on ebay at holley 350s.. i can get a reco one from a company for ard 250 or a 'new' one off ebay for ard 450 bucks so id hate to see how much they retail at.. so what would the advantages be of buying a new one from the outlaw speed shop in town to getting a reco one from a big supplier off of ebay..
maby i could just get my gauges from there.. looking at..
http://www.autometer...p...id=1&szid=2
to do fuel level, oil pressure, voltmeter, water temp.. and..
http://www.autometer...p...id=5&szid=6
both these for a whole custom dash.. which id have to add to if i end up going for a turbo an such..
they also seem to be scarishly expensive on USA ebay.. so will have to get them when O.o if the aussie dollar starts to fight back..

would anyone happen to have a template or dimensions of the lx torana dash.. i want the dash to look basically the same but the layout of the gauges to be different.. or would it be best if i go to the wreckers an pull one out so i can see how everything goes together..

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#10 _202LX_

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Posted 08 December 2008 - 04:36 PM

With the holley, i would buy a new one rather than a second hand one....
That way u get exactly what you want. Alot if the 350 holleys on holden sixes are the V8 ones (code 7448) and arent suited to the 202 very well. If you buy new you can get the right carby for your car and know exactly what you have

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#11 _darkone040_

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 06:19 AM

so i went to see rod tech the other day..
they are so busy that they are not taking on anymore work until mid january..
so there goes my plan for my christmas pressie to my car.. will have to think of something else instead..
autometer gauges/holley350/harrop front disc upgrade/ new set of wheels for the upgrades.. unsure yet..
also he said that they wont do the r31 diff conversion as the diff housing is cast iron and difficult O.o. to weld on new brackets..
he said that it is better to go out and find a vn or later diff housing and he will chop it up and fit it under my car for 670 without a change in stud patern or 770 with a change in stud pattern.. i have to supply brackets and diff housing..
so im looking in the trading post for as latest model commy i can find.. saw a vz being wrecked in the trading post.. tryin to get in contact with the guy.. no luck as of yet..

did the commies get an upgrade in their brakes throughout the series..
what size rims will i need to fit the commie rear discs.. what stud patern..
i want 15" hotwires but they are as rare as hens teeth so i should already give up on that..
so wanting a wheel that is open to see the disc brakes.. and probably chrome..
should i get the harrops front disc upgrade as the commie rears would be better than my std fronts..
and am i able to get a single spinner and put a mechanical limited slip in it (lokka)..
had a quick look but cant figure out what model B/W the diff is.. too tired maby someone knows..

good night all..

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#12 _HatchmanSS76_

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 06:47 AM

for the first step of the project i want to get the rear end of the car upgraded as my diff housing is past its use by date..
i want to get everything done in the adelaide metroish area..
so i went to Diff and Trans in the city (closest name in the yellowpages) www.diffandtrans.com.au he said he would be able to hook me up with the center to suit my application.. and gave me a number of the guy that does the housing work for him..
Rod - Tech (192 Hampstead Rd Clearview) http://www.rodtech.com.au/.. but hes snowed under until next year..
i havnt called him yet but the website says they manufacture part for hot rods.. doesnt really say that they do differential conversions but it does look like they know about suspension tho..
do any other people have any suggestions where i could go about getting this done..
also with the diff out i want to make a few suspension upgrades, i really have no idea about suspension so what would the best thing to get done to the rear end to make it more stable yet stil let it be good to drive around town all day..

i also want to put a holley 350 on my car and getting it from the outlaw speed shop as ive always wanted to get something from there possibly be getting a set of autometer gauges from there so i am able to tell how warm my car is getting not sure if the dash gauges work or not..

cheers, adrian.

You can try C&D as well (Carmine & Dean) for building diff housings. They did mine and did an excellent job complete with brace and drain plug as well. Not sure if they are in the phone book. You can get their details through Pro Action Spares on regency rd.

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#13 _HatchmanSS76_

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 06:53 AM

so i went to see rod tech the other day..
they are so busy that they are not taking on anymore work until mid january..
so there goes my plan for my christmas pressie to my car.. will have to think of something else instead..
autometer gauges/holley350/harrop front disc upgrade/ new set of wheels for the upgrades.. unsure yet..
also he said that they wont do the r31 diff conversion as the diff housing is cast iron and difficult O.o. to weld on new brackets..
he said that it is better to go out and find a vn or later diff housing and he will chop it up and fit it under my car for 670 without a change in stud patern or 770 with a change in stud pattern.. i have to supply brackets and diff housing..
so im looking in the trading post for as latest model commy i can find.. saw a vz being wrecked in the trading post.. tryin to get in contact with the guy.. no luck as of yet..

did the commies get an upgrade in their brakes throughout the series..
what size rims will i need to fit the commie rear discs.. what stud patern..
i want 15" hotwires but they are as rare as hens teeth so i should already give up on that..
so wanting a wheel that is open to see the disc brakes.. and probably chrome..
should i get the harrops front disc upgrade as the commie rears would be better than my std fronts..
and am i able to get a single spinner and put a mechanical limited slip in it (lokka)..
had a quick look but cant figure out what model B/W the diff is.. too tired maby someone knows..

good night all..

You need to look at VL's, VN's and VP's with the solid rear axel. After that they had IRS which is a whole different setup and no good for your Torana.

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#14 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 07:41 AM

also he said that they wont do the r31 diff conversion as the diff housing is cast iron and difficult O.o. to weld on new brackets..
he said that it is better to go out and find a vn or later diff housing

Its cast steel (not iron) and the VN housing is exactly the same as the R31 Skyline in this respect. The majority of the top arm brackets are still on the axle tube housing anyway.

and am i able to get a single spinner and put a mechanical limited slip in it (lokka)..
had a quick look but cant figure out what model B/W the diff is.. too tired maby someone knows..

Yes Rory put a lokka in his, I believe you need a single spinner centre to put it in (can't be done with LSD centre).
Both the Commodore and Skyline Borg Warners (live axle versions) are BW75 if that's what you are asking.

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#15 _darkone040_

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 03:26 PM

You can try C&D as well (Carmine & Dean) for building diff housings. They did mine and did an excellent job complete with brace and drain plug as well. Not sure if they are in the phone book. You can get their details through Pro Action Spares on regency rd.

cool ill look them up.. thanks for that.. hope they are in the phone book..

You need to look at VL's, VN's and VP's with the solid rear axel. After that they had IRS which is a whole different setup and no good for your Torana.

damn he never told me about that.. i hate conflicting information im confused enough as it is.. is there any chance of cutting off the irs and welding on my rts or maby making an irs torana O.o? guessing not.. but i have no idea of the differences..

Its cast steel (not iron) and the VN housing is exactly the same as the R31 Skyline in this respect. The majority of the top arm brackets are still on the axle tube housing anyway

yeah he said cast steel and crap if i cant use VN housing.. limited to VP now but im guessing that would also be cast steel.. i thought in the process was that he would have to cut off the top arm brackets and weld new ones on in the position that they are needed..
i thoguht the r31s were running the BW 78, my question was for the later model commies vn onwards.. if any of them got a diff upgrade.. as i was thinking of getting the one with the strongest diff.. but cant now seems irs will be stopping me.. damn..

ok thanks for the help peoples my researching will continue..

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#16 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 04:10 PM

yeah he said cast steel and crap if i cant use VN housing.. limited to VP now but im guessing that would also be cast steel.. i thought in the process was that he would have to cut off the top arm brackets and weld new ones on in the position that they are needed..
i thoguht the r31s were running the BW 78

When I said VN I mean VK 1/2, VL, VN, VP, VR and VS (they're all exactly the same in this respect). And of course the brackets can be welded to the cast steel housing, mine are. The only difference between BW75 and BW78 is the gearset size: 75 = 7.5 inches, 78 = 7.8(ish) inches

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#17 _darkone040_

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 07:26 PM

so on Friday i went to the local u-pull it.. and ripped off myself a vs comm non irs diff housing.. took me a good 3 hours of sweating and swearing but finally got the thing off.. cost me 160 bucks..

i don't think its LSD.. but when i turn the part for the tail shaft only one side turns but it takes almost 2 turns of the tail shaft part for the disc to make a full turn.. weird.. i thought it would take 3 or more.. i didnt get any of the suspension or anything as rod tech said that they would be using all my brackets..

so i may have to go look for a LSD at some point..

now i just have to get a set of king springs from..
Motor Traders
64 Grand Junction RD
KILBURN NORTH SA 5084
PH: 08 8368 4800
FAX: 08 8260 2447

and a set of bilstein shocks and a pair of whiteline sway bars from..
Car Torque
74 North Terrace,
Kent Town, SA, 5067
tel: 08 8362 7667
fax: 08 8132 1706

get the LSD diff from, unsure what ratio, 3.08 or 3.36..
Diff and Trans SA
16 O'Brien Street,
Adelaide, SA 5000
tel: (08) 8211 8322
Fax: (08) 8211 8247
and get the hoppers stoppers kit for the front.. or the back dics would be bigger than the front..
http://www.hoppers.com.au/

then i can make an appointment to have it all put in at rod tech and then ill have my stage 1 complete..

im stil not entirely sure if rod tech would install all these parts for me.. ill find that out when i make the appointment.. but may have to find myself someone else to install the suspension parts.. anyone else know someone in the area that could do all this for me..

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#18 _sshatch355_

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 07:50 PM

diff & trans get there housings built by rodtech so why dont you get them to price up the whole lot. atleast if you go that way you will get in earlier as diff n trans would be able to get the diff quicker from rodtech than you could walking off the street

rodtech build diffs etc but you have to put it in yourself

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#19 _darkone040_

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 07:57 PM

oh.. really.. damn i was under the impression that they would fit at least the diff for me.. :(
urgh so ill have to go back to diff an trans..

oh well i like running around all over town on a hunt for things for my car..

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#20 _sshatch355_

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 08:50 PM

putting a 9inch into a torry aint rocket science as its been done a million times before.

if your planning on changing wheels rodtech have an adjustable bar to dummy fit the rear end in with the wheels your going to run and you just fit it up to where you want it do the bolts up and take it back to them and they set it up exactly where you want

what area are you in?? if ya want get the diff made at rodtech and im sure i can spare an arvo to show you how/help you put it in. atleast then you never have to pay anyone to do it for ya!!

as for running all over town welcome to the modified car scene we all go through it :fool:

also cds aka carmen & dino,s number is 82432945

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#21 _sshatch355_

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 09:13 PM

^^^^^ whoops bw not 9inch sorry not enough pale ales today :tease:

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#22 _darkone040_

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Posted 05 January 2009 - 06:30 AM

yeah ill be changing wheels to the commodore stud pattern..
a better selection of wheels are available that way..
but i wont be putting any real decent wheels on her till i finish with her body and put the body kit on her..
so will probably be running 15" * 6" stockies all round at the moment.. stil gotta find a cheap set of them somewhere.. so i dont think that adjustable dummy bar thingy would help too much..
but that is stil another detail that i havnt really looked into..
should i keep it standard torana width.. or pull it in a little bit so i can get the deep dish look.. hmm..
umm im living at plympton (rented unit no garage).. but im really not equipped to put it in..
ive got a spanner set and a trolley jack.. a mate has my axel stands.. but he is far far away.. lol..
thanks for the offer tho.. much appreciated..

does carmen & dino's have a website or an address.. i hate phones so i try read up on peoples websites what they exactly can do then go pay them a visit..

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#23 _darkone040_

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 04:48 PM

Went to Motor Traders today to order a set of King Springs cost $382 for the set and ill pick them up next week.. Prolly wednesday when i have the time..
Then moseyed myself down to Rod-Tech but no one was home, damn wanted to talk to them about the diff conversion..
Then putted along down to Car Torque to order the Bilstein shockers and Whiteline swaybars cost $1298 the lot.. Ill pick them up wednesday aswell.. somehow ordering the swaybars from Car Torque was cheaper than ordering them online direct from Whiteline.. oh wells..
My wallet feels somewhat lighter now..

ill probably hold off on ordering the hoppers kit for a little bit until i know how much the diff conversion is gonna cost me to get everything fitted..

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#24 76lxhatch

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Posted 07 January 2009 - 07:16 PM

yeah ill be changing wheels to the commodore stud pattern..

should i keep it standard torana width.. or pull it in a little bit so i can get the deep dish look.. hmm..

You won't get deep dish with commonly available Commodore wheels, wrong offset (unless you want expensive custom wheels). I'd say measure it up to suit whatever's readily available then its no drama if you want a new set of wheels later

Edited by 76lxhatch, 07 January 2009 - 07:17 PM.

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#25 _darkone040_

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Posted 14 January 2009 - 06:05 PM

so i went out and did some shopping today and picked up my springs and shocks..

front:

rear:

shocks:

apparently the front whiteline swaybar had to be ordered from overseas so they didnt send the rear one either.. so i should be picking the rear up next wednesday and will have to wait until feb the 4th until ill be able to get the front..

also went down to rod tech his diff workers are stil on holiday until next week and then they will be back and can do my diff.. he also recommended..

TransSteer
26 Barnett Ave
Glynde SA 5070
Ph. 83650201
Fax. 83650211

i dont think they have a website but ive payed them a visit and have booked my car in for the 2nd of feb for them to take out my old diff and put in the new one also put in all the new suspension ect aswell.. so yay..

im pretty sure that the bushes under my car are fairly new but with all this new stuff going in is it recommended to do a refresher on these also.. im not sure what they are worth or what the best ones for the job are.. any recommendations..

for me to get this done quicker id have to find torana diff mounts other than the ones holding my car together.. and i dont want to go out and rip out another diff at the wreckers.. any ideas..

cheers will be back with more progress soon.. hopefully..