will a blue crank fit strait in a red block. It would the easier to use a red block, due to a 9port. I sent my block for crack testing. It was crack all the way down one bore, only 8 places. I think one more rev and my engine would have been at the tip. Well the crank, clutch, and plate are there, and the block is on the way. That's what happens when you rev something, it breaks sooner or later.
blue crank, in red 202
Started by
lakeside
, Mar 07 2006 04:25 PM
23 replies to this topic
#1
lakeside
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:25 PM
#2
_LJ308injected_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:36 PM
yeah the crank will fit better choice as they are a steel crank rather blue or black are the go and in my opinion a 12 port head would also be an advantage over a 9 port but have to change inlet and extractors
#3
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:45 PM
you can work a 9 port a lot more.
yes the crank will go strait in, providing you have a 202 block. these had bigger mains jorunals.
yes the crank will go strait in, providing you have a 202 block. these had bigger mains jorunals.
#4
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 06:56 PM
Thats what i wanted to hear... 
Does anyone have the part number for the rear main seal for a blue crank (nyloprene seal) in red block(rope seal)? FastEH was talking about them i think.
Steve
Does anyone have the part number for the rear main seal for a blue crank (nyloprene seal) in red block(rope seal)? FastEH was talking about them i think.
Steve
#6
_Terrible One_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 07:45 PM
I think blue crank in a red block is the way to go. Keep the minimal emission standards of a red block with the tougher internals.
#7
_gtr161s_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 07:58 PM
If you use a 9 port head on a blue/black block you will need to drill the water jacket holes (block face) to match the red head and i think when you put the 12 port on a red block it will cover some holes.
It just so happens that the holes that are effected flow around the head on the manifold side.
It just so happens that the holes that are effected flow around the head on the manifold side.
#8
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 09:14 PM
i think were using a 9 port hed on a read block with a blue crank....like i'm doing 
#9
_Cane_It_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 09:18 PM
blue crank is a wise choice, pay particular attention to the location of timing mark on the harmonic balancer before the head goes on, chances are you'll have to put a timing notch in the balancer yourself.
#10
FastEHHolden
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 10:36 PM
LJ308injected....all 202 cranks should be cast..not steel.
and sorry I don't have a part number for the seal
and sorry I don't have a part number for the seal
#11
rodomo
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 11:36 PM
Why would you persist with 9 port if you could fit 12 port with factory valves as big as xu-1 (but not with the same releiving), bigger induction ports and double valve springs standard?
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#12
Ferg
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 11:50 PM
Hey RACV man i reckon hes persisting with a 9 port cause thats the head hes got came bolted to eng with 9 port manifolds. I guess thats why most of us use 9 port.
Must agree tho 12 is better and wouldnt mind 1 myself
Must agree tho 12 is better and wouldnt mind 1 myself
#13
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 12:07 AM
Without doubt if aftermarket 12 port manifolds were more readily available, the 12 port head would be in much greater demand.
#14
Ferg
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 12:14 AM
Spot on Chop we all have got 30-40 odd years of bits in the shed that dont consist of 12 ports 
so weve gotta use em up
so weve gotta use em up
#15
FastEHHolden
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 12:34 AM
I'm a bit of a fan of the 9 port...I'm not convinced the 12 is better...the 9 port has a much bigger port to draw out of..I know it has to cause turbulence trying to draw the mixture 2 different ways but I just don't think the 12 port head is big enough.
I am about to section my old YT head and intend to post pics to demonstrate my point...I just have to feel up to spending 1/2 an hour with a hack saw.
Redline 12 port manifolds are out there..and are cheap as..new...they just don't pop up in the paper or on ebay.
I am about to section my old YT head and intend to post pics to demonstrate my point...I just have to feel up to spending 1/2 an hour with a hack saw.
Redline 12 port manifolds are out there..and are cheap as..new...they just don't pop up in the paper or on ebay.
Edited by FastEHHolden, 08 March 2006 - 12:36 AM.
#16
lakeside
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 01:06 AM
The reason I own a red at all, it came in the gtr. It make 300hp with a nine port. how many more will it make with 12port. Plus it's the only part of the engine left, and the cam. So far it's broken the block, crank, flywheel, clutch, press plate( bolts bent it), 6- 7/16, 12 pointer flywheel bolts. It was running good, was going out the shed to the exhaust shop, and lost the clutch. It will cost me $2000+ by the time I get to block back. And a mate has machined and fixed flywheel, dowelled two cranks (first broken, don't know) for nothing.
The bloke I got it from had another 202. Same short, with a 12port and making more power. It was running 11.3 in a HR
The bloke I got it from had another 202. Same short, with a 12port and making more power. It was running 11.3 in a HR
#17
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 01:32 AM
Redline 12 port manifolds are out there..and are cheap as..new...they just don't pop up in the paper or on ebay.
To suit what carb/carbs?
#18
lakeside
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 07:49 AM
3 webbersRedline 12 port manifolds are out there..and are cheap as..new...they just don't pop up in the paper or on ebay.
To suit what carb/carbs?
#19
_draglc_
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 04:55 PM
i see a 12 port triple weber manifold about once a month on ebay.
A1
A1
#20
FastEHHolden
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 06:38 PM
http://www.tweakit.n...a&filter_id=149
Is this enough choice for you...admittedly prices are a bit more than I seem to remember...lets face it $250 for a manifold is a drop in the ocean for some engines.
Is this enough choice for you...admittedly prices are a bit more than I seem to remember...lets face it $250 for a manifold is a drop in the ocean for some engines.
#21
liswar2
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Posted 17 January 2019 - 12:45 AM
Hi. All, do I have read this but got a little lost
I have a polished blue crank from a 3.3 I was going to put in my red 292,
What's the Recomended balancer ,
I need to check my clearance on the sump , and oil pick up,
Any thing else ???
Any help appreciated,
Thx wazza
That's was a 3…3 blue crank on a red 202
I have a polished blue crank from a 3.3 I was going to put in my red 292,
What's the Recomended balancer ,
I need to check my clearance on the sump , and oil pick up,
Any thing else ???
Any help appreciated,
Thx wazza
That's was a 3…3 blue crank on a red 202
#22
warrenm
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Posted 17 January 2019 - 05:57 AM
All the Red/Blue/Black motor balancers are the same weight/dimensions, the only difference is the timing mark position can differ slightly & that's depends which timing case you have, so mark TDC on the case when you assemble.
#23
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 17 January 2019 - 03:52 PM
Hi wazz, havn't mocked it up yet but I came by a 3.3 blue that had an LJ sump on it & found
that the metal "fence" that holds the gate had been clearanced (butchered) probably to give a
counter-weight room to rotate without hitting. I can go take a pic & post or txt it to you if required.
As Warrenm said above mark TDC on your red timing cover or use a blue balancer & cover.
#24
liswar2
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Posted 17 January 2019 - 08:18 PM
Thanks guys and gals for the info , please keep it coming on any thoughts or ideas with the bottom end fit out, I do have 2 blue timing cover from memory....
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