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stub tech drop axles???


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#1 benno81

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 06:39 PM

gday all been looking at a pair of drop axles i know castlemaine make these but i have been told stub tech make em better but not sure ne one had any expierances with stub tech?? and price for the pair??
they r goin in my lx
cheers benno

Edited by benno81, 21 March 2009 - 06:39 PM.


#2 Growla

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:58 AM

I have set on my LX with commodore brakes. The car is not finished for engineering (LS1). So I can't comment on how it drives. But it does have two locations for the steering arms to suit different applications.

Cheers
Mark

#3 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 07:16 AM

But it does have two locations for the steering arms to suit different applications.


My CRS stub axles are the same. Although I've just discovered the steering arm thread is different to that of the stub axle. I may have to reem the steering arm to allow the bolt to fit. Unless someone knows of a magical bolt that changes thread as you tighten it! :D

#4 rodomo

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 07:34 AM

My CRS stub axles are the same. Although I've just discovered the steering arm thread is different to that of the stub axle. I may have to reem the steering arm to allow the bolt to fit. Unless someone knows of a magical bolt that changes thread as you tighten it! :D


It never ceases to amaze me how this sort of thing keeps happening in manufacure.

How many threads here say something like "I bought this and it doesn't fit" or "hits that" or "I had to bash this and that"

What happened to good old R+D? Or is this stuff being pumped out overseas where something gets lost in the translation? :soapbox: :D

#5 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 11:32 AM

Either the steering arm or the sub axle can be threaded, not both. You would not be able to tighten the bolt even if they were the same thread.

I suspect you are attempting to fit the steering arm to the wrong hole in the stub axle.

#6 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:06 PM

I suspect you are attempting to fit the steering arm to the wrong hole in the stub axle.


You suspect? :<_<:

Posted Image

All four holes highlighted by the red arrows are threaded.

#7 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:31 PM

I stand corrected.

However as I said before there is no way that you would be able to tighten the bolt if both the arm and the stub axle are threaded even if it is the same thread. They must expect you either fit a steering arm that is not threaded or to drill out the thread in either the stub axle or the steering arm. Cutting threads in all four holes gives you more options when fitting the stub axles.

It would be interesting to hear from the manufacturer why they did it.

#8 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:42 PM

I guess since they don't drill the brake mounting holes on both sides then the stub axles might need to be fitted on either side depending on application. So if you require one threaded hole for the steering arm then they all must be to cater for different combinations. As above it would be a lot easier to drill out the ones that don't need it prior to fitting.

#9 wot179

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:43 PM

I stand corrected.

However as I said before there is no way that you would be able to tighten the bolt if both the arm and the stub axle are threaded even if it is the same thread. They must expect you either fit a steering arm that is not threaded or to drill out the thread in either the stub axle or the steering arm. Cutting threads in all four holes gives you more options when fitting the stub axles.

It would be interesting to hear from the manufacturer why they did it.



Reading the instructions,which come with the engineers cert,HQ-WB bolt to top holes.HD-HR bolt tolower holes.HKTG-bolt to top holes.LC_LJ bolt to lower holes.LH LX UC tapped holes in steering arm to be drilled out to 7/16 to accept grade 8.8 bolt.Spring washer and nut which are supplied must be used to affix steering arm to stub axle.

#10 rodomo

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:45 PM

Reading the instructions,which come with the engineers cert,HQ-WB bolt to top holes.HD-HR bolt tolower holes.HKTG-bolt to top holes.LC_LJ bolt to lower holes.LH LX UC tapped holes in steering arm to be drilled out to 7/16 to accept grade 8.8 bolt.Spring washer and nut which are supplied must be used to affix steering arm to stub axle.


Yeah.......................but..................who reads instuctions? :huh:

#11 wot179

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:46 PM

Theres some other stuff regarding spacers when using standard hr or torana discs and calipers as well if you need it.

#12 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 07:17 PM

It's starting to make some sense now!

I received no instructions or hardware when I purchased the stub axles from CRS. All I received was a pair of stub axles and some crappy photocopy of an email transcription between CRS and Department of Transport (not an engineering report).

Also since the stub is effectively raised 2", there is now very little room to place a nut on the back of a bolt as it may come in contact with the disc surface (depending on what type of disc you're using).

That clears a few things up for me, thanks!

#13 wot179

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 07:39 PM

It's starting to make some sense now!

I received no instructions or hardware when I purchased the stub axles from CRS. All I received was a pair of stub axles and some crappy photocopy of an email transcription between CRS and Department of Transport (not an engineering report).

Also since the stub is effectively raised 2", there is now very little room to place a nut on the back of a bolt as it may come in contact with the disc surface (depending on what type of disc you're using).

That clears a few things up for me, thanks!


There is a number stamped on the stub axle.This number is hand written onto a generic eng report,I suspect to identify your particular application.Perhaps you could contact CRS with this number and get a new report,with instructions.Could save you some trouble if you are concerned with legalities.

#14 dattoman

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 02:58 AM

CRS under the old owners (after Hadfield) went Chinese with their stubs
And they were supposedly crap....sand cast not investment cast

Inthink stubtech are sourcing from the original Aussie caster again

#15 wot179

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 04:30 AM

mine are dated 24-12-97.

#16 orangeLJ

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 11:03 AM

I was under the impression stubtechs products were CNCd not cast, But I cant find anything on their site that says that (so i might have just assumed it whenI read their ads.... I dont know!)

They are all Aussie made too.

#17 _the gts_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 07:33 PM

Antelope you need to drill holes (only 1 from memory) for the CRS stubs. Sometimes instructions come in handy

#18 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 09:34 PM

Antelope you need to drill holes (only 1 from memory) for the CRS stubs. Sometimes instructions come in handy

Thanks for that Phil.

Cheers.

#19 _angliadon_

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Posted 07 February 2010 - 02:11 PM

Hi I am after some LJ drop stubs but Stubtech said he only has HQ and he said they don`t fit LJ.

#20 _AGGRSV_

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Posted 09 November 2013 - 09:13 PM

Any updates on how these eventually bolted up?

What holes were drilled out?

How was bolt clearance etc?

I am about to fit a set up to LH Torana with big brakes.



#21 LC-069

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 12:45 PM

Also love to hear about anymore feedback on this product.  I'm thinking about buying a pair. 


Anyone used them with hoppers stoppers 290mm brake kit??



#22 dattoman

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 10:05 PM

Tiny has the older CRS dropped stubs and a Hoppers kit on the Monaro



#23 rexy

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:00 PM

I have a set on the LJ. No issues.
Last time I rang stub tech Rod Hadfield answered the phone. Had a good chat as usual.




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