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Commonly accepted method of assembling a door


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#1 Heath

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:35 PM

Having recently re-assembled my doors, I'm curious as to what everyone actually puts back into their doors, and what they leave out.

Do you leave the dust covers on the latch mechanism when you take it off and clean it? Or do you stretch it back over after washing all the dirt out?

Obviously when you access anything behind the doorframe, it is necessary to remove the 'water deflectors' (that's what they are called in the workshop manual haha). What is their actual purpose? I'd never even thought of putting them back in, does anyone from here do that? Is there a benefit from it? I don't want my door trims getting soggy if they will prevent that, but I'd never thought about it. Do they help with sound insulation? What material do you use to replace them? What adhesive product do you use?

When re-installing the window winders (and door levers in 'S' models), do you use the spring and plastic washer? I always thought that it made it really hard to remove the circlip, but having just assembled my doors again, I've noticed that the winder doesn't actually sit properly and obviously it makes the car feel lacking in quality. I imagine that the spring and plastic washer setup would rectify that problem. It's been so long since I worked on a car that actually had them installed (lmao) that I can't remember how bad it is to remove the winder with them in place. Any comments?

#2 Statler

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:39 PM

If you dont put the plastic washer back on, the handle can grab on the trim & tear it.

#3 wot179

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:44 PM

Put them back together the way they came apart.Otherwise your doors will rattle and leak,and the mechs will fill up with crud.

#4 Heath

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 08:13 PM

haha I know some people who reckon the dust covers hold the crap in the mechanism so they always remove em lol. I put mine back on but they took a hell of a lot of cleaning, and the rest of the inside of the door was pretty clean so I wondered a bit... :P

Col, that wouldn't happen with my trim but I can imagine it could happen with some. Cheers!

#5 76lxhatch

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 09:05 PM

I've removed the plastic covers on the latch mechanisms several times, start from the right spot and exercise a little care and they always go back on undamaged.

#6 Rockoz

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:14 PM

Best way is the way they come from the factory.
The plastic sheet over the door holes is important.
If the drain holes block up it stops water running in to the cab.
When driving there is considerable air movement inside the door.
Any residual moisture, even if the door drains are unblocked, swirls around and will make it inside the cab.
One thing I have found over the years is that Mr Holden didnt put anything in the cars that wasnt necessary, unless of course he could charge you extra for having it.

#7 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:24 PM

Yep I agree. I always reassemble my cars the way they were put together in the factory. Even the most obscure parts usually have a purpose, including the plastic seals behind the door trims. Lost count of how many cars have come into work with water leaks caused by those bits missing or not sealing properly.

#8 Heath

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:33 PM

Interesting, I didn't expect such an unbalanced responce. So everyone who has speakers installed in their doors is missing the benefit of this to a fair extent.

I've never had an issue with removing and re-installing the dust covers over the latch mechanisms, you just need to take your time :)

I will need to make the 'water deflectors' from scratch lol. Advice for what material I should use? A thin plastic sheet good? How should I glue it in place?

#9 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:44 PM

From factory speakers in the doors are usually sealed & are mounted in built in or plastic deflectors. My VT Commodore leaked water in the front floor pan when it rained heavily because the previous owner removed the speakers. I refitted ones from a wrecker & the water leak stopped. For dust/water deflectors I use a reasonably thick sheet of plastic cut to size & fitted with a bead ofbutlymastic sealer (called dum dum in the trade) around the edge. this stuff doesn't go hard & is what alot of modern car makers use including the VE Commodores.

#10 MRLXSS

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:53 PM

What are the "water deflectors"

having an already molestered torana, meant most of the stuff in my car had already been liberated! At least once i start working on the SS, ill see what all this wonderful stuff is.

#11 rodomo

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:07 PM

If you need plastic deflectors for your speakers, just buy chinese take-away a few nights in a row. :spoton:

#12 Heath

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Posted 08 April 2009 - 08:30 AM

haha don't worry Matt, I was thinking of people like you when I started the thread.

You know the three holes in the door frame? One circle and two more squarely shaped slots, that you put your hands into when you adjust/install/remove your locking mechanisms? There are supposed to be sheets of papery vinyl stuff over them from the factory, called Water Deflectors.

lol Rob!

Thanks for that advice LH SLR 3300

#13 MRLXSS

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Posted 08 April 2009 - 08:51 AM

Ahhh, I know what your on about! LOL. I thought there was something else in the door that i didnt know about! LOL

We re-installed them on Maddy's UC, just got some material, and used contact adhesive to stick them on. I personally wouldn't bother, The amount of times i have had to have my door trim off to fix a dodgy lock, handle, window, or winder etc etc is crazy!

The only thing i can think it might also improve, is maybe help with road noise as it's a tiny bit of insulation that my help stop echoing vibrations.

#14 _Squarepants_

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Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:38 PM

Ahhh, I know what your on about! LOL. I thought there was something else in the door that i didnt know about! LOL

We re-installed them on Maddy's UC, just got some material, and used contact adhesive to stick them on. I personally wouldn't bother, The amount of times i have had to have my door trim off to fix a dodgy lock, handle, window, or winder etc etc is crazy!

The only thing i can think it might also improve, is maybe help with road noise as it's a tiny bit of insulation that my help stop echoing vibrations.


If you use the Butyl mastic (windscreen saelant) it doesn't go hard and you can pull them off and stick them back on without any new glue/resealing. Though, it's annoying to get stuck in the hairs on your arm when working on locks/handles etc. They help a bit with noise, too.

#15 howie1300

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Posted 01 June 2021 - 07:40 AM

Quick question everyone, does the internal door handles have a locking circle like the winders. I have removed the screw but still firmly attached.

Cant see any circlip on workshop manual.

 

Howie



#16 S pack

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Posted 01 June 2021 - 07:44 AM

No circlip, just pushes onto a spline and the screw secures it in place.



#17 hanra

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Posted 01 June 2021 - 08:26 AM

Pull harder. 



#18 howie1300

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Posted 12 June 2021 - 10:56 AM


If you use the Butyl mastic (windscreen saelant) it doesn't go hard and you can pull them off and stick them back on without any new glue/resealing. Though, it's annoying to get stuck in the hairs on your arm when working on locks/handles etc. They help a bit with noise, too.

I just removed my water deflectors and they just peeled off, must of used a similar product during production

 

Howie



#19 Swarbs

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Posted 14 June 2021 - 11:39 AM

Dynamatted the holes when i done the doors

Left the backing on the "sticky" side and just cut the backing off the contact area

 

Filled them well, and nice and neat



#20 Rockoz

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Posted 14 June 2021 - 01:44 PM

Dynamatted the holes when i done the doors

Left the backing on the "sticky" side and just cut the backing off the contact area

 

Filled them well, and nice and neat

 

I like that idea.

How do you reckon it will go if you need to pull them off though?

Some glues just dont like letting go.

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#21 Swarbs

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Posted 15 June 2021 - 10:57 AM

Its only like a bitumous surface that you have to work to get it to adhere -- its not a glue as such

Sort of no different to the mastic to get it off that they used with the plastic seal once it has set


Edited by Swarbs, 15 June 2021 - 10:57 AM.





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