Hopfully I'll catch the guy on the weekend and find out how much he's asking.
Thanks hey, pretty keen to replace the poly one in my car, the bolts holding it all together keep coming loose from heating up & cooling down when I drive the car.
LH LX FLEXIABLE STEERING COUPLING
Started by
_LH SLR 3300_
, Apr 10 2009 05:08 PM
40 replies to this topic
#26
_LH SLR 3300_
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 30 April 2009 - 08:18 PM
Thanks hey, pretty keen to replace the poly one in my car, the bolts holding it all together keep coming loose from heating up & cooling down when I drive the car.
#27
_ass308_
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Posted 30 April 2009 - 09:51 PM
if they another one,and whish to part with it.ill take one too 
#28
_LH SLR 3300_
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 03 May 2009 - 10:36 PM
Hopfully I'll catch the guy on the weekend and find out how much he's asking.
I just found & bought a NOS coupling (must've been my lucky day lol)so I'm no longer on the hunt for one but thanks for looking into it. Cheers Matt
#29
dattoman
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Posted 04 May 2009 - 09:54 AM
This is the yankee one I bought
Its about 12-13mm thick
Holes are 8mm diam
Centre hole is 20mm
Distance between holes across the centre is 48mm
Overall diameter is 70mm
Do we think it might go close ?
Comes with a couple of bolts and retaining tabs
Its about 12-13mm thick
Holes are 8mm diam
Centre hole is 20mm
Distance between holes across the centre is 48mm
Overall diameter is 70mm
Do we think it might go close ?
Comes with a couple of bolts and retaining tabs
#31
dattoman
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Posted 04 May 2009 - 02:59 PM
$12 US each
Plus delivery
How many should I bring back ?
Plus delivery
How many should I bring back ?
#33
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 04 May 2009 - 08:05 PM
$12 US each
Plus delivery
How many should I bring back ?
As many as you can lol. From what I've read in this thread more people swear by the original rubber type than the poly ones. You'll clean up selling these, on the forum here or on evilbay. ;-)
#34
_youngy_11_
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Posted 13 July 2011 - 06:04 PM
I have installed a red noathelene coupling but am consider taking it out before the motor goes in due to the issues mentioned in this thread thread.
I still have the rag coupling which appears to be in good shape.
Is there any advantages for going for a rubber type coupling over the rag type coupling?
Is there any indicators that the rag coupling is stuffed, it worked ok before this second build.
I don't want to do the double uni mod either.
Ryan
I still have the rag coupling which appears to be in good shape.
Is there any advantages for going for a rubber type coupling over the rag type coupling?
Is there any indicators that the rag coupling is stuffed, it worked ok before this second build.
I don't want to do the double uni mod either.
Ryan
#35
hanra
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Oh My, Don't you post alot
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Posted 13 July 2011 - 06:29 PM
Is the bit everyone is talking about?
http://www.rarespare...duct=9946440KIT
http://www.ebay.com....=item415a11a2ca
http://www.rarespare...duct=9946440KIT
http://www.ebay.com....=item415a11a2ca
#36
_youngy_11_
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Posted 13 July 2011 - 07:58 PM
Yeah. I have fitted a noathelene one. Which has problems with heat.
The ebay one is probably rubber.
The ebay one is probably rubber.
#37
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 13 July 2011 - 11:37 PM
Is there any advantages for going for a rubber type coupling over the rag type coupling?
The rubber type coupling and the rag type coupling are the same thing. The rubber is reinforced with cloth which gives it the name rag coupler. You can see the cloth in the photos above posted by Dattoman.
It seems to me that the main problem with the factory coupler is that eventually the rivets holding the rubber to the joint get a loose and the rubber is able to move around a bit.
If there is no obvious damage to your old rubber disc then I would just reassemble the coupler using the nolathane fittings. The Mackay rebuild kit probaly uses reinforced rubber but you would need to check before buying.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 13 July 2011 - 11:40 PM.
#38
slar
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Posted 14 July 2011 - 03:54 PM
This looks like a rag one to me
<BR style="CLEAR: both">
STEERING SHAFT FLEX COUPLING LH-UC & COTTER PINS
Unit:EA
AUD$121.00 (Inc GST)
AUD$110.00 (Ex. GST)
<BR style="CLEAR: both">
STEERING SHAFT FLEX COUPLING LH-UC & COTTER PINS
Unit:EA
AUD$121.00 (Inc GST)
AUD$110.00 (Ex. GST)
#39
_LXHatchback_
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Posted 18 January 2020 - 11:21 AM
Gents,
Firing up this old thread.
When doing the replacement "second uni joint", are you using an aftermarket uni and cotter pins or finding a second factory joint - like the one just up the shaft?
Thanks,
Luke.
Firing up this old thread.
When doing the replacement "second uni joint", are you using an aftermarket uni and cotter pins or finding a second factory joint - like the one just up the shaft?
Thanks,
Luke.
#40
Cook
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Posted 19 January 2020 - 02:28 PM
Hi Luke. Are you referring to the rag joint or the upper uni. FWIW I have replaced the rag joint with a Borgeson uni to give me a bit more extractor clearance and also from what I've read, better steering response. I have kept the original joint on the upper section but I have seen threads where people have used the Borgeson on both. Unfortunately I can't give you any feedback as it's not on the road yet. Cheers Ron
#41
Posted 19 January 2020 - 07:32 PM
An upper original uni joint will fit in place of the original rag joint, you just have to trim the reduced diameter part of the steering rack input shaft.
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