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Commodore Booster to LH/X Rear Discs

Started by _rorym_ , Apr 19 2009 05:04 PM

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108 replies to this topic

#51 micklx

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Name:Mick
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Posted 15 November 2010 - 08:27 PM

I've got a WB Stato and a VN V8 booster/master to choose from. Planning on having a disc/drum setup to start with - which would you recomend using ?

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#52 dattoman

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 10:09 PM

Either will need the rear rod to the pedal modified

Either will do the job
Both are virtually identical
Both use metric port threads on the master... the only difference is the flares
The commodore one is probably easier to mod as the bolt pattern on the booster is close enough to right... the WB isn't close

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#53 _mason-08_

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:33 PM

is a vh446 a 07 m 22 a single booster its off a vp v6 wagon

scott

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#54 dattoman

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Name:Neil
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 01:10 AM

A 446/447 is a single diaphragm Commodore booster yes
VK-VR

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#55 _mason-08_

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 08:22 AM

A 446/447 is a single diaphragm Commodore booster yes
VK-VR

Thanks will keep looking

scott

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#56 _@milco@_

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 12:00 PM

can a single dia booster be used and a 1"master?
as i have one in the shed in good cond? then at a later date swap to a dual dia booster and retain the 1" master?

it was removed from a vq statesman v8, but it is a single dia and 1" master set up. looks like it was not changed as well... i thought it would have been a dual dia being a v8....

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#57 dattoman

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 02:35 PM

VQ should have been a double

And yes you can swap boosters later and still retain the original master

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#58 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 03:18 PM

When you swap from a single to a double diaphragm booster the master cylinder is moved forward. This could mean you need to make new brake lines.

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#59 _DENJAR_

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 07:02 PM

Where can i buy new brake line tube and fittings in syd, old ones rounded and brake lines old and ugly.
Also want to try and hide the brake lines a bit.

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#60 IMORAL

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 09:12 PM

I bought a VN V8 booster and master cylinder. The master cyl is 1". I was told it was out of a V8 VN with four wheel disks. I have four wheel disks on my hatch. I shortened the rod to the same lenght as the torana one I removed. The pedal feels very soft and seems to go along way down. I havent got the car on the road yet and not owning a torana before I have nothing to compare it to I beleive their is something wrong with the brakes. I had the brakes power bleed while at the exhaust shop but they still seem no good.
Any ideas?

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#61 dattoman

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 09:27 PM

@ Denjar
At any brake shop , repco etc

@ lx-ss ... new cylinder or second hand ?
Could be any number of reasons.. .and you need to slowly and individually check the car to determine which wheel , wheels or master are giving fault

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#62 MRLXSS

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Posted 03 August 2011 - 01:16 PM

Hey, sorry to dig up an old thread...

I am starting to think about this conversion on my Hatch...

With this booster

http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Can you then just bolt a later model Master Cyl on it?

Thanks!

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#63 dattoman

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Posted 03 August 2011 - 04:06 PM

That booster plus P10050 = job done

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#64 _[2_FLY]_

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 12:19 PM

Neil, would this set up be suitable for my early hoppers/VS rear disc combo? I have a terrible pedal to be perfectly honest

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#65 dattoman

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 01:35 PM

Unlikely to change anything Gav
Your original master is 1" and so is the one mentioned here
SO no increase in fluid displacement

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#66 _[2_FLY]_

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 04:53 PM

ah spewin, was hoping to neaten up the bay a bit too by getting rid of the bias valve

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#67 _AGGRSV_

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 06:51 PM

hoping to try the conversion myself at the end of the year. Just chasing a double diaphram booster and 1 inch master to suit. What sort of distance are you guys talking about when you refer to packing the booster with washers? I am just trying to get my head around why washers are needed??

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#68 dattoman

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 08:45 PM

Refresh so I don't have to reread... what washers ?

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#69 _AGGRSV_

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 06:53 PM

you mentioned on the first page that spacing between both Torana and Commodore boosters were the same, but the bolt sizes were smaller... Which bolts are you referring to??

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#70 dattoman

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 07:56 PM

Stud sizes on the rear cannister to firewall
You will know what I mean when you have the 2 side by side
No packing... as you say

Original bolts are imperial and about 3/8"
Commodore are metric and 8mm
This is an approximation as I don't have both infront of me

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#71 _AGGRSV_

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 08:07 PM

cheers Datto man! But if the Commodore studs are longer, can't they just be cut down instead of using washers to space it?

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#72 dattoman

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 08:12 PM

Diameter... not length !!!

No spacing !!!!

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#73 _AGGRSV_

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 08:15 PM

ok ok i get it..... Thanks bud...

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#74 IMORAL

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 09:44 PM

@ lx-ss ... new cylinder or second hand ?
Could be any number of reasons.. .and you need to slowly and individually check the car to determine which wheel , wheels or master are giving fault

I have since got it on the road. The brakes do work but the pedal just feels like shit. I put a brand new master cylinder on it and made no difference. I tried blocking off the rear brakes to isolate the problem. With them blocked off it does have a firmer pedal but that is probally because no fluid is going to them. I have checked all four corners for leaks and line flex but all is good. maybe its just the way they are? I was talking to a mechanic the other day and he thought VN's has shit brakes from day 1. I had a VN SS years ago and I thought the brakes were fine.

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#75 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:10 AM

@ lx-ss ... new cylinder or second hand ?
Could be any number of reasons.. .and you need to slowly and individually check the car to determine which wheel , wheels or master are giving fault

I have since got it on the road. The brakes do work but the pedal just feels like shit. I put a brand new master cylinder on it and made no difference. I tried blocking off the rear brakes to isolate the problem. With them blocked off it does have a firmer pedal but that is probally because no fluid is going to them. I have checked all four corners for leaks and line flex but all is good. maybe its just the way they are? I was talking to a mechanic the other day and he thought VN's has shit brakes from day 1. I had a VN SS years ago and I thought the brakes were fine.

My VN V8 Calais had very good brakes. Heavier car than torrie too so not sure what he's on about really...