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Nissan 4 spots tutorial to LH.


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#1 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 12:35 PM

OK..The first thing you need is a set of HQ style stub axles. HX one tonner are better as they are heat treated and are the same as A9X, you can see the heat treat blue lines quite clearly half way along the stub. You will need to do a bit of grinding on the shoulder to help clear the caliper.

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Next are the brackets, I uploaded the template to Photobucket but cant get them to print at the right size. If you enlarge them on a photocopier to about the measurements you will have the template. Someone might know how to get them out of Photobucket at A4 size. Or email me and I will fax it to you.The brackets need to be 1/2" in thickness, I got a machine cutter to knock them out for me.. The holes are easy to work out. Start in the top about the middle of the meaty piece, then measure down the exact distance as the mounting holes for the stubs and the caliper. Just centralise the holes in the middle of the bracket as you see them. Do the caliper mounts from the bottom of the dogleg back up, that way you cant be too wrong.I beveled them off on the top edges, it will become apparent as we move on. Rocket did his in alloy plate and I tried that but they bent so I now use steel plate. Look at the template and the pics..the 3 holes are basically in a line.


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Next are the calipers.
Early R32 GTR Skyline, any R32 GTS or GTS-T or 300ZX are all the same. Be careful as there are too different sizes in the mounts. You need 80mm measured like the pic...not 90mm mounts.
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If you try to fit the others you will be missing half the disc with the pad and probably wont get 15" wheels on. They will look like this.
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Now fit the disc to the stub. Then the bracket. You will need a 5MM spacer as in the pic.
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Next bolt the caliper onto the bracket using the top bolt hole., its the only one there anyway
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What you are going to do now is swing the caliper down until the pads are even around the top of the disc. On the outside you can check the pads are sitting in the meat of the disc.The 5MM spacer basically centralises them on the rotor. Dont sit them right down as they will touch the caliper, look under the outside and get the edge of thepad in the bite part of the rotor, this will give you clearence off the rotor. If not sure, spin it to make sure it doesnt touch but if the pads are sitting just down about 2mm at the top you will be right.
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When thats in place you need to mark when to drill and tap the bottom mount bolt on the stub arm. Centre punch where you are going to drill.
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Remove the rotor and caliper with bracket. Drill the hole. Tap says to use 9.9mm drill. Tap is 7/16 20UNF. Tap the thread.
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Next trial fit the bracket back on the stub with the steering arm. I usually have to grind a bit off the back of the arm and a bit more out of the bracket to get the arm to sit in nicely.
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Re-fit the caliper. Now you see why we bevelled the inside edge of the bracket, it needs to clear the curve mount of the caliper so it can sit flat and hard up on the mount, you can also grind a small amount off the caliper to make sure it sits flat.
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Tighten everything up, if you have done it right the pads will be sitting as they were in your trial run at the beginning.

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Do the other side. Finished.
R

Edited by rorym, 20 June 2009 - 12:43 PM.


#2 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 12:56 PM

Doh! Dumb arse! He is a more accurate bracket template.
Email me and I will fax it. Or blow it up until you get 155mm total length.
R


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Edited by rorym, 20 June 2009 - 12:58 PM.


#3 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 01:19 PM

do you have to machine the discs at all? or are they standard hq size? also do you have to run 15's with this? very thorough tutorial rory! ill be pondering on this one.

Edited by torana_umunga74, 20 June 2009 - 01:21 PM.


#4 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 02:03 PM

No machining,Std HQ rotors..I have fitted 14 x 8 Hotwires with this setup. 5mm spacer if you leave the NISSAN 3mm if you grind it off.

R

Edited by rorym, 20 June 2009 - 02:15 PM.


#5 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 02:18 PM

Attached File  Nissan_calipers_021.jpg   552.77K   82 downloads
Attached File  Nissan_calipers_020.jpg   591.08K   96 downloads

#6 _evil UC hatch_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 02:28 PM

are there any clearance issues on full lock, and/or when suspension is comprseesd?

#7 dattoman

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 02:29 PM

Just a couple of things

You can't use early R32 GTR calipers... they fit a 296mm disc
So just stick with Z32 300 ZX or R32 GTS-T calipers

This pic is an R33 GTS-T caliper... also no good as rory says
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The Nissan calipers suit a 30mm thick disc whereas the HQ is 25.4mm so keep an eye on pad wear

#8 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:20 PM

Yeah that ones a bit strange Neil, have 2 wreckers swear they took these calipers of early R32 GTRs..not sure if they were Jap domestic models or not but anyway there should be enough info there for the boys to ID the correct ones. As long as the mounts are 80mm all should be good.
R

#9 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:22 PM

are there any clearance issues on full lock, and/or when suspension is comprseesd?


Depends on the height of the tyre Jas, lower profiles are ok..235/60-14 are a drama touching. You need to roll the firwwall lip back on most of them anyway.
R

#10 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:23 PM

5mm spacer if you leave the NISSAN 3mm if you grind it off.


Is this just for wheel clearance?

How big would you make them to sit the caliper exactly central to the disc?

Are you really going to leave the "Nissan" on them???

Top job though, Rory! :clap: The car should nearly be nose-standing with those anchors! :rockon:

#11 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:26 PM

Wheels vary..15" Simmons dont go anywhere near fitting but 14" Hotwires do...so you will need to check your wheels offset and mount face/spokes if they clear. The NISSAN comes off tomorrow.
R

#12 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:29 PM

How big would you make them to sit the caliper exactly central to the disc?


Not sure what you mean square but it is central...you can adjust the centre of the rotor to the caliper by varying the thickness of the spacer if thats what you mean?Any questions asl away..was thinking I could email the template, it should print out on A4 at the correct size.
R

Edited by rorym, 20 June 2009 - 03:37 PM.


#13 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:38 PM

wat did the calipers set u back?

#14 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:40 PM

Vary on Ebay from $100 to $250. Rebuild kits are $40 about...You need to remember to get new lines made up with Torana at the top and Nissan connectors at the bottom, I get braided ones for $90 from my mobile brakes guy..
R

#15 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 04:27 PM

Not sure what you mean square but it is central...you can adjust the centre of the rotor to the caliper by varying the thickness of the spacer if thats what you mean?
R

Yep, you're onto it.
I'm wondering exactly what size spacer is needed to centralise the caliper perfectly? As you say, you can adjust it with different size spacers, so assuming the "Nissan" is removed and wheel clearance isn't an issue, what size spacer is needed.
You have stated that yours are central with the 5mm spacer, so why would you suggest a 3mm spacer?
I'm not having a go here, please don't misinterpret this post, I applaude what you've done :clap: , I just don't understand why spacer thickness' would vary in regards to centralising the caliper.

#16 _cruiza_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 04:34 PM

Nice job Rorym thanks for sharing, so the big question is how to they work, a good improvement any idea how they would compare to aftermarket brakes performance and price also what would engineering costs be for road legal?

cruiza

#17 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 04:38 PM

Yep, you're onto it.
I'm wondering exactly what size spacer is needed to centralise the caliper perfectly? As you say, you can adjust it with different size spacers, so assuming the "Nissan" is removed and wheel clearance isn't an issue, what size spacer is needed.
You have stated that yours are central with the 5mm spacer, so why would you suggest a 3mm spacer?
I'm not having a go here, please don't misinterpret this post, I applaude what you've done :clap: , I just don't understand why spacer thickness' would vary in regards to centralising the caliper.


Haha! No dramas mate..2 different things...the spacer for the caliper to central rotor is approx 5mm...To get Hotwires to fit you need a 3mm WHEEL spacer on the biolt up face to space the wheel off to clear the caliper..sorry for confusion.
R

#18 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 04:41 PM

Nice job Rorym thanks for sharing, so the big question is how to they work, a good improvement any idea how they would compare to aftermarket brakes performance and price also what would engineering costs be for road legal?

cruiza


Engineering? I didnt tell..no one noticed..as for $ per performance..add the rear discs/diff in the other sticky/Torviki and this thing stands on its nose...This is No.2...I already did all this to HDT N0.1 which runs the whole setup. Any 4 spot is better than Girling /LC-J stuff which is miles ahead of LH/X std stuff..so we are down the road X 2.
R

Edited by rorym, 20 June 2009 - 04:41 PM.


#19 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 05:01 PM

... I have fitted 14 x 8 Hotwires with this setup. 5mm spacer if you leave the NISSAN 3mm if you grind it off.


I see said the blind man... :D

Would it be detrimental at all to grind that redundant hole out of the stub axle?
ie. In your very first pic that shows the grinding required on the stub axle around the outside hole for caliper clearance, couldn't that hole be completely removed? It would look neater imo, and I can't really see how it would affect strength.
Again, not having a go :clap: , just curious.

#20 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 05:17 PM

Spot on..Its redundant..Just chose to leave it there..
R

#21 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 05:30 PM

Cool! :spoton:
Again, nice work and well done with this post! Very comprehensive! You're a credit to this forum mate! :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

#22 _rorym_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 05:44 PM

Hope all this stuff is worth it to you guys..saves making mistakes we did on the way..e.g. the R33 calipers Datto was on about.
R

#23 enderwigginau

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:34 PM

We'll have to transfer this to a Wiki Article.
Looks awesome.

Grant..

#24 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:38 PM

make sure the pics stick.. im still after those indicator stalk ones. i like this one. ive been told the HQ calliper upgrade is a minor upgrade, and this one has as much or less work/cost involved..

#25 _Lxrana_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 09:02 PM

Awesome stuff Rory. Thanks for sharing. I'll be doing this for sure along with the Borgy disc brake rear. As mentioned before you are a credit to this forum. Name change to RORYS-GMH-TORANA-FORUM. Ha Ha Ha.




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