108 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

I remember this thread from years ago.

Another car group Im involved with do similar conversions.

One way they have been doing it, and I didnt see here, is to machine the disc off the standard hub/disc arrangement then put rotors on with longer studs.

That format has been passed by engineers in NSW.

Only increases front track by about 8mm.

If someone has already suggested that, apologies for covering old ground.

Im using the same calipers on my secret resto.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Liam S]

I remember this thread from years ago.
Another car group Im involved with do similar conversions.
One way they have been doing it, and I didnt see here, is to machine the disc off the standard hub/disc arrangement then put rotors on with longer studs.
That format has been passed by engineers in NSW.
Only increases front track by about 8mm.
If someone has already suggested that, apologies for covering old ground.
Im using the same calipers on my secret resto.

Cheers

Rob

Hey Rob,

How does that differ from a hub spacer?


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[Rockoz]

Hey Rob,

How does that differ from a hub spacer?


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There is no spacer involved.

All you are doing is going from an old style fixed rotor to a newer style removable rotor.

And you are saving yourself the cost of buying hubs just to do it.

You need access to a decent sized lathe to do it properly, but can be done with an angle grinder.

You will need new studs to cover the added length requirement.

Its a cheaper alternatve and has passed engineering for others.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Rockoz]

No known photos.

It has been done with the P76 fraternity many times.

There isnt a whole lot of difference in their front discs.

Apparently some have used P76 blanks for Toranas.

I started to cut one of the discs up to have a play, but measured wrongly and started cutting in the wrong place.

There was a bit of a boss around the wheel studs I didnt take into account.

The idea was to get the bulk of the disc off, then tidy it all up in my lathe.

It is big enough to handle the hub, but not the full hub and disc.

You can buy the hubs off ebay if you wish. But dont buy trailer hubs. They may be okay for setting up but wouldnt use them.

I had a chat to one of the sellers on ebay years ago because I was looking at running VE discs when I had my Torana.

The different offset on them would have saved issues with the caliper fouling.

But it was new territory. No one else was looking at it.

I asked the bloke if he could do the hubs with VE pcd and the bigger studs, as I would have had wheel clearance problems by not using the more modern wheels, I think. This was more than 10 years ago.

The adaptor plate was an easy one as well for a VE caliper from memory. Just needed a big block of steel to start with. lol

But my intention was to get radial mount calipers which simplified it all again.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Jay#2]

Silly question, but how is everyone routing their brake hoses? I have Nissan 300ZX braided lines (which might not be ideal) and I have a straight adapter and also a banjo fitting to use. I find the straight adapters cause the lines to contact the springs on full lock, the banjos work better as they put the line 90 degrees to the calliper but I’m struggling to find a clear route that is clear of everything throughout the suspension travel.

[BENN0]

I have run banjos out of the caliper. 

The hose then attaches to the upper control arm (with a little slack to allow for suspension travel and steering), then to the standard soft to hardline connection. 

I have used AN3 BMRS hoses and fittings (might be a little smaller in OD compared to yours)

[Jay#2]

Excellent, I did have a google at HQ setups on Toranas and noticed they use a bracket on the steering arm to route the hoses. As you say, the upper arm might work too. Thanks.