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Nissan 4 spots tutorial to LH.


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#76 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 12:12 AM

I am not saying that there is is a problem, I am just pointing out that you should check things like this when changing components. It would only take a minute to measure your setup and check if you will need to change pads early or not.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 June 2009 - 12:17 AM.


#77 BENN0

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Posted 01 October 2010 - 11:01 AM

Digging up an old thread.....
Im fitting the same calipers to a 327mm rotor at the moment (Using a standard LX knuckle)
I will post pics when complete.

#78 BENN0

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 10:32 AM

I have been busy installing Nissan 4 spots to the front of my LX.
I have kept the standard Torana stub, and am using VP GTS rotors (327mm) and a custom bracket to fit the calipers.
The conversion was a peice of cake.
$100 for the calipers, $80 for the pads, $420 for the rotors and a few bucks for new bearings and caliper paint. The bracket cost me nothing as I had a guy at work convert my CAD drawing into reality.

Attached File  IMG00027-20100924-1650.jpg   28.63K   48 downloads
Pic was taken before the bracket was finalised.

Attached File  IMG00052-20101030-1646.jpg   20.97K   53 downloads
Finished goods rear (Almost, just need to centralise the caliper on the rotor and have the bracket coated) You can see there is a bit of clearance to the rim (17")

There has been a fair bit of work on the rotors converting the stud pattern to suit the wheels I wanted to run, but this wouldnt be required in most cases.

Even if you had the brackets made at a machine shop, the complete setup would cost around a grand (including calipers, pads, hoses, caliper rebuild kit, rotors, bracket, bearings and grease)

#79 blue308

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 04:59 PM

excellent, any idea on how much the track is increased with this set up ? looks like it clears the top control arm too.

Thnaks shane

#80 BENN0

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 06:55 PM

excellent, any idea on how much the track is increased with this set up ? looks like it clears the top control arm too.

Thnaks shane


I will still notch the control arm. It clears when the front corner is at full droop (body on jack stands) but at full lock over a bump i think it will go a little too close.
I havent measured track yet. But 17x7.5 (+4) wheel sit about 5mm within the front guards and clear the suspension arms.

#81 Bart

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Posted 16 November 2010 - 02:40 PM

So did you buy second hand VP ommodore rotor/hubs?

I have been busy installing Nissan 4 spots to the front of my LX.
I have kept the standard Torana stub, and am using VP GTS rotors (327mm) and a custom bracket to fit the calipers.
The conversion was a peice of cake.
$100 for the calipers, $80 for the pads, $420 for the rotors and a few bucks for new bearings and caliper paint. The bracket cost me nothing as I had a guy at work convert my CAD drawing into reality.

Attached File  IMG00027-20100924-1650.jpg   28.63K   48 downloads
Pic was taken before the bracket was finalised.

Attached File  IMG00052-20101030-1646.jpg   20.97K   53 downloads
Finished goods rear (Almost, just need to centralise the caliper on the rotor and have the bracket coated) You can see there is a bit of clearance to the rim (17")

There has been a fair bit of work on the rotors converting the stud pattern to suit the wheels I wanted to run, but this wouldnt be required in most cases.

Even if you had the brackets made at a machine shop, the complete setup would cost around a grand (including calipers, pads, hoses, caliper rebuild kit, rotors, bracket, bearings and grease)



#82 BENN0

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Posted 17 November 2010 - 09:59 AM

I bought new rotors.

I havent measured the track as yet. The front end is apart (painting, rebushing etc). When its all complete, I will measure it up and post info.
The bracket took a little bit more machining to centralise the caliper over the rotor. But nothing too major. All in all, it was a fairly cheap and simple conversion.



#83 _slr5000.com.au_

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 01:46 PM

Hey Guys what master cylinder are you running with this set up?

#84 _rorym_

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 05:11 PM

Ford XE or Commodore 1"....delete std bias thingo..
R

#85 _slr6000_

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 10:09 PM

I like the GTS rotor idea I might convert mine to this as well. One thing to look out when doing the conversion is the calliper clearance to the lower and upper control arms as well as the sub frame within the entire travel of the suspension. The brake line leaving the calliper is also likely to hit as well and could snap off which wouldn�t be good. I�ve done the conversion using LX stubs and the calliper did hit on the control arms and sub frame no matter where I placed the calliper on the disk.
The bigger GTS rotor should help with these issues I would think.

#86 tofly308

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 02:12 AM

Definitely dragging up an old thread here.

I am aware this brake setup was initially designed for a race car application, but do you think an engineer would sign off on a modification like this for street duties? I have bought some bits & pieces to do this conversion, but now I'm wondering whether to bother as far as legalities are concerned. Cheers for any comments

I am in W.A.

Cheers,
Adam

#87 dattoman

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 09:49 AM

I doubt anyone would sign off on a conversion that requires drilling of the stub axle.... but ask an engineer

#88 _Zedbeast_

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 01:45 PM

Rorym,

Interested to know if your set up changes the wheel offset. I am considering doing this to my LX but cannot afford to push my rims out any further than the standard offset. 

 

Car sits low and runs 17 x 7 inch wheels and 17 x 8 rears without scrubbing (had wheels custom machined to suit).  

 

Also keen to find out how Bart's set up measures up when finished. Awsome thread - well done guys.

 

Cheers, Greg



#89 _ott308_

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 07:12 PM

Hey guys I have just done this conversion. But I have next to no rear brakes. I have the 4 piston front brakes and single piston Nissan rear calipers of same vintage car. I have used a vn 1" master cylinder and booster. Do I need to remove the bias valve?? If so How??



#90 _trippytaka_

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 02:52 PM

Hi everyone just thought I'd quickly add to this.

When looking for 4-pot Nissan callipers:

32 GTR and 33 GTST are both for larger 296mm discs.

32 GTST and also s14 and s15 are to suit 280mm x 30mm discs.

For reference http://www.sr20tuning.com/brakes.html

Cheers,
Andrew

#91 _trippytaka_

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 05:32 PM

And a better link for Nissan brakes info
http://www.jdmlegion...47-5cb9366bcaf1

#92 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 07:33 PM

Your forgeting the models that suit a 26mm disk.....Like 300ZX. 

 

Perfect fit for a HQ disk. 

 

I have a pair....There for sale....

 

Cheers. 



#93 dattoman

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 08:19 PM

And the fact S14/15 are cast iron calipers... heavy



#94 _trippytaka_

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 10:17 PM

Your forgeting the models that suit a 26mm disk.....Like 300ZX. 
 
Perfect fit for a HQ disk. 
 
I have a pair....There for sale....
 
Cheers. 


100% correct, the z32 normally aspirated.

You have a pair for sale? How much? Link.

#95 jef

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 09:25 PM

do you still get full lock or do the calipers hit LCA



#96 BENN0

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Posted 15 December 2016 - 11:13 AM

Another thread dig.....

The caliper looked like they would hit the subframe (brake hose connection). So I had to cut off the protruding "ears" of the subframe and square them off. 

It has pushed the track out by around 8mm so front wheels (no flares) are becoming a bit of an issue. Clearance issues with the wheels are around the guard when the wheels are turned. Its not so much the bottom edge so trimming might not help. Wheels are a 17x7 +20 with a 215/45 tyre. Will try a smaller rolling diameter tyre to see if I can get around it. 



#97 mick_in_oz

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Posted 15 December 2016 - 06:35 PM

You can leave the cross member alone and mod the caliper. I changed my calipers over to Banjo's and used the lower of the bosses on the caliper for the Banjo, and reduced the height of the boss the Banjo sits against, I also got some dome head Banjo Bolts, all sits nice. I'm running VT discs 298mm? with UPC hubs and 15x7 GTS (Pontiac) steel wheels. Caliper sitting out the front.



#98 BENN0

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Posted 16 December 2016 - 12:01 PM

Do you know if the UPC hubs/late model disc push the offset outward like running a pre-VT rotor?

Also do you run flares, what offset on the wheels and what tyre are you running?



#99 mick_in_oz

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Posted 16 December 2016 - 07:32 PM

Yes the UPC Hub and VT Disc push the track out, from memory its about 8mm per side. There really is no way using the commodore disc cant push the track out as the overall height of the disc is 83mm vs 72mm and there is little room behind the disc for it go further back, the lower arm is in the way.

 

Yes Flares, wheel dish was made to suit, I'd have to go and measure it, I went from 14x7 and 14x10 to 15x7 and 15x10, when I couldn't buy 265 50 14's for the rear any more, so made up the 15's and took the opportunity to add the big brakes.

 

The wheels are very deep dish and I had to add a touch more negative camber than expected to get them off the flare, the tyre height change caught me out a little more than expected. Front tyres are 215 60 15.

 

I can measure the offset/back-space if you need me to.

Attached Files


Edited by mick_in_oz, 16 December 2016 - 07:36 PM.


#100 BENN0

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 01:59 PM

Cheers for the info. Im not running flares, so don't have much flexibility around wheel/tyre.

Thanks for the offer to measure, but I dont think it I need it. Cheers






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