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Fitting Original Rear Discs to UC


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#1 _torana50_

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 11:55 AM

I have purchased a set of original Rear discs to fit to my UC Hatch. Do these use the same bearings and seals or will i need different ones? How do I set the booster up?

#2 LX2DR

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 09:52 PM

A bit vague on what you've actually bought?

Normally you should have;
2 x Fine spline axles (Hopefully assembled with the spacer behind the retainer)
2 x Calipers
2 x Disc's
2 x Reaction plates (Funny shaped cast iron pieces that bolt to diff and calipers hang off)
8 x Bolts for reaction plates (Casting is thicker than the std plate)
4 x Caliper bolts
2 x Handbrake cables (Longer than drum ones, go past diff and come back in from rear.
2 x Backing plates
2 x Handbrake cable plates (On diff)
Set of brake lines to suit calipers (Metal and rubber)

No changes to the booster, will need to remove the line pressure valve from the master cylinder.

An article how to do it by Enders here!
More info in my project thread might be helpful? here!

Most info is for UC onto LH/X but your basically doing the same thing only the handbrake cables will be easier.

Paul

#3 dattoman

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 10:34 PM

UC with disc rear had a fatter booster for the extra pressure needed for the rear discs
But you can use the original quite successfully

And yes... those links will certainly help

#4 _torana50_

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 11:13 PM

A bit vague on what you've actually bought?

Normally you should have;
2 x Fine spline axles (Hopefully assembled with the spacer behind the retainer)
2 x Calipers
2 x Disc's
2 x Reaction plates (Funny shaped cast iron pieces that bolt to diff and calipers hang off)
8 x Bolts for reaction plates (Casting is thicker than the std plate)
4 x Caliper bolts
2 x Handbrake cables (Longer than drum ones, go past diff and come back in from rear.
2 x Backing plates
2 x Handbrake cable plates (On diff)
Set of brake lines to suit calipers (Metal and rubber)

No changes to the booster, will need to remove the line pressure valve from the master cylinder.

An article how to do it by Enders here!

More info in my project thread might be helpful? here!

Most info is for UC onto LH/X but your basically doing the same thing only the handbrake cables will be easier.

Paul


Thanks heaps. Excellent info. I have purchased all the above accept I might have to buy the bolts.
Because the setup is going on a UC I figure the handbrake cables don't have to be reversed. Also the existing axles are already fine spline. Not sure about spacer behind the retainer.
Do I need to make any change to the proportioning valve?

#5 LX2DR

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 01:22 AM

Thanks heaps. Excellent info. I have purchased all the above accept I might have to buy the bolts.
Because the setup is going on a UC I figure the handbrake cables don't have to be reversed. Also the existing axles are already fine spline. Not sure about spacer behind the retainer.
Do I need to make any change to the proportioning valve?

If you got the cables it will be easier to use them & not modify the actuators as i had too, standard cables are the same as all drum brakes, from the front.
If you dont reverse the cables you will need to reverse the actuators & make brackets for the outer cables.
As far as i know you do need the disc/disc proportioning valve, when i got mine i got the entire system and swapped it all, except the booster as it was identical to the original & looked to be a perfect spare.
I'm sure someone else can confirm the proportioning valve? something about the spring inside i think?
Paul

#6 76lxhatch

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:56 AM

Yes. Any model disc/drum proportioning valve is designed to deliver significantly less pressure to the drums, a disc/disc version will have much less differential. Using a disc/drum proportioning valve with four wheel discs will result in not much rear braking power.

#7 _torana50_

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 09:25 AM

Thanks again. I will get under the Torrie this weekend and have a closer look at the setup.

#8 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 10:08 AM

I think you will find the axles are different.

But i might be wrong.

As LX2DR said you will likely need disk brake axles as i would assume the spacing after the bolt up flange would be different.

But i have never done it so not sure.

Cheers.

#9 enderwigginau

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:23 PM

Axles will need the spacer or disc brake seal on each.

Go to a brake place and ask for HQ disc brake seals. You will need to get new bearings as they need to crack these off to to get the seals/spacers on.

Grant..

#10 LX2DR

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 09:23 PM

Just remembered :blink:

The disc axles also have extra long wheel studs to accommodate the disc.
10 > 15mm longer?

Edited by LX2DR, 27 June 2009 - 09:38 PM.


#11 _torana50_

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 10:12 AM

Thanks for all this info. Top forum, eh.
Just for info, my UC has a 308 and quick shifted trimatic fitted and all legal in SA.

I don't have the Banjo diff because it is UC. Does this affect the type of axles I need, I.E. must be out of a UC only?

#12 enderwigginau

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 12:23 PM

Just remembered :blink:

The disc axles also have extra long wheel studs to accommodate the disc.
10 > 15mm longer?


Damnit, I remembered that then forgot to write it....:P
I have a spare set of disc axles and drum axles, and you can visibly see the difference when they are next to one another.


torana50 - UC (Small sally) and LH/X(Banjo) axles are the same The UC axles have a slightly better milled profile, so use them if you can.

Grant..

#13 _torana50_

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 12:35 PM

Damnit, I remembered that then forgot to write it....:P
I have a spare set of disc axles and drum axles, and you can visibly see the difference when they are next to one another.


torana50 - UC (Small sally) and LH/X(Banjo) axles are the same The UC axles have a slightly better milled profile, so use them if you can.

Grant..


OK, so u willing to part with disc axles? It looks like nothing going to happen till I get a set.

#14 Statler

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 01:59 PM

On a side note........good conversion m8.

I put the whole disc diff into my UC hatch [had to buy a car to get it] & the braking distances were very noticably reduced!

I used the stock booster.

Cheers, Col.

#15 fuzzypumper

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 02:46 PM

Just remembered :blink:

The disc axles also have extra long wheel studs to accommodate the disc.
10 > 15mm longer?


Dont know if UC disc axles are the same but WB (large sallisbury) disc axles not only have longer wheel studs to accomodate the disc but
they also have a longer/taller centering hub for same reason. To protude past the disc so the wheel rim will centre correctly.
Are original UC disc axles the same or doesnt this make a difference and people have been ignoring this issue?

#16 enderwigginau

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 09:38 PM

OK, so u willing to part with disc axles? It looks like nothing going to happen till I get a set.


No :P

If you have a set of UC or LH/X axles, just get the seals and new bearings put on and you're ready to go.
The std studs aren't that much shorter as to be unusable/dangerous.

Grant..

#17 Steve TPF

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 08:53 PM

What happened to the article on installing the UC brakes? The link takes me back to the main forum.

#18 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 09:01 PM

What happened to the article on installing the UC brakes? The link takes me back to the main forum.



One of the joys of the new and improved forum.

#19 Steve TPF

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 06:15 AM

I have a set of rear discs for my UC, but a trial install yesterday showed that the axles are loose - the bearings aren't being held against the seat because of the extra thickness of the caliper mount.

Quote:enderwiggenau: "If you have a set of UC or LH/X axles, just get the seals and new bearings put on and you're ready to go.
The std studs aren't that much shorter as to be unusable/dangerous."

So if I get HQ seals and new bearings fitted to the standard axles this will work? Do I need to give the shop any special instructions, or just "fit the HQ seals"?

#20 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 02:42 PM

I have drum and disc UC axles at home. I shall try get a photo of them side by side if I can get my camera back from my son. Could be helpfull.

#21 Steve TPF

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 03:43 PM

I have drum and disc UC axles at home. I shall try get a photo of them side by side if I can get my camera back from my son. Could be helpfull.


It will indeed. As long as the axles are the same length the seals aren't a big deal. If the axles are different then I'm in trouble.

If they are different, would you consider selling yours, or do you still need them?

Edited by Steve TPF, 20 October 2009 - 03:49 PM.


#22 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 10:00 AM


I have drum and disc UC axles at home. I shall try get a photo of them side by side if I can get my camera back from my son. Could be helpfull.


It will indeed. As long as the axles are the same length the seals aren't a big deal. If the axles are different then I'm in trouble.

If they are different, would you consider selling yours, or do you still need them?



I would probably only sell the complete kit: axles, calipers etc.

And that wouldn't be for a while.

#23 enderwigginau

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 01:12 PM

I have a set of rear discs for my UC, but a trial install yesterday showed that the axles are loose - the bearings aren't being held against the seat because of the extra thickness of the caliper mount.

Quote:enderwiggenau: "If you have a set of UC or LH/X axles, just get the seals and new bearings put on and you're ready to go.
The std studs aren't that much shorter as to be unusable/dangerous."

So if I get HQ seals and new bearings fitted to the standard axles this will work? Do I need to give the shop any special instructions, or just "fit the HQ seals"?



HQ disc brake seals are the same Posted Image so YES
All UC axles are the same - and very similar to LH/X axles (lengths are the same though :D )



Grant..

#24 _torana50_

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 02:17 PM


I have a set of rear discs for my UC, but a trial install yesterday showed that the axles are loose - the bearings aren't being held against the seat because of the extra thickness of the caliper mount.

Quote:enderwiggenau: "If you have a set of UC or LH/X axles, just get the seals and new bearings put on and you're ready to go.
The std studs aren't that much shorter as to be unusable/dangerous."

So if I get HQ seals and new bearings fitted to the standard axles this will work? Do I need to give the shop any special instructions, or just "fit the HQ seals"?



HQ disc brake seals are the same Posted Image so YES
All UC axles are the same - and very similar to LH/X axles (lengths are the same though :D )

I finally got hold of a set of Disc rear axles and will get a new set of HQ brake seals fitted.

Has any more happened about getting pricing and an order for new rotors to suit torana?



Grant..



#25 dattoman

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 08:52 PM

To fit the seals requires removing the bearings

So they can't just "fit the seals"
So its new bearings and seals time

And since HQ never had disc rears... try HZ or WB rear :)




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