Hey just a quick one, Does the power wire for the electric choke have power during cranking and running? or only running?
does Electric Choke Wire always have power?
Started by
_Viper_
, Sep 06 2009 10:01 PM
11 replies to this topic
#2
TerrA LX
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Posted 06 September 2009 - 10:09 PM
AFAIK it needs power to operate so I would assume it would need power on cold cranking and cold running only.
#3
rodomo
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Posted 06 September 2009 - 10:23 PM
Ignition power heats up the spring which expands and winds the choke off. So..................................... ignition power at all times running.
Cranking? Not necessary.
Cranking? Not necessary.
#4
_Viper_
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Posted 06 September 2009 - 10:53 PM
Wouldnt you want the choke to work while your trying to start the car as well tho?
#5
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Posted 06 September 2009 - 11:33 PM
from what bromo said, the choke is on as default, ones you turn the ignition on it slowly opens
Correct!
#6
_torbirdie_
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Posted 07 September 2009 - 05:12 AM
Not sure if the ^ has cleared it up?
The car receives ignition power when you crank the starter, so the choke receives power(has 12V going to it whether it uses it or not) in the crank and run position of the ignition switch
The car receives ignition power when you crank the starter, so the choke receives power(has 12V going to it whether it uses it or not) in the crank and run position of the ignition switch
#7
View GaragePosted 08 September 2009 - 08:37 AM
It still operates from heat (just powered by electrical rather than air from around exhaust as earlier models) so it doesn't really matter whether the power is connected during cranking or not as this is such a short amount of time. If cold the choke will still be on because the spring is cold. If hot, the choke will still be off because the spring hasn't had time to cool down yet.
#8
_The Baron_
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Posted 08 September 2009 - 01:58 PM
When I first put my car on the road, I had the choke wound off completely.
When it was dynoed, they also suggested this because apparently a rich mix with the current fuel designed for fuel injection tends to foul the plugs quickly on a carby car.
Initial start up and the first 20-30 seconds is done by feathering the throttle until the engine has enough warmth to continue to idle.
Well it works for me.
When it was dynoed, they also suggested this because apparently a rich mix with the current fuel designed for fuel injection tends to foul the plugs quickly on a carby car.
Initial start up and the first 20-30 seconds is done by feathering the throttle until the engine has enough warmth to continue to idle.
Well it works for me.
Edited by The Baron, 08 September 2009 - 02:03 PM.
#9
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Posted 08 September 2009 - 03:54 PM
I hate electric/heat chokes, either a manual choke or as above for me.
#10
_torbirdie_
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Posted 09 September 2009 - 05:26 PM
It still operates from heat (just powered by electrical rather than air from around exhaust as earlier models) so it doesn't really matter whether the power is connected during cranking or not as this is such a short amount of time. If cold the choke will still be on because the spring is cold. If hot, the choke will still be off because the spring hasn't had time to cool down yet.
that is correct.
Its also doesnt hurt for those that have them to appreciate that if you turn the ignition to on(in a simply wired setup), and leave it there for a few minutes before starting the car then the choke will open making the car hard to start when cold.
Edited by torbirdie, 09 September 2009 - 05:26 PM.
#11
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 09 September 2009 - 05:46 PM
As above, doesn't need power during cranking, you do need to depress the accelerator prior to starting to set it on, as that bit is purely mechanical. As the spring heats up it withdraws the mechanical lock out, or you can manually turn it off by stabbing the accelerator.
The power slowly heats the spring to remove the mechanical lock (can't remember exactly how it does it, just look at all the linkages and try adjusting one and you'll see how it all works.
I've got mine set just right, and I love it. Saves Yella trying to throw you through the windscreen on a cold morning.
My electric choke is wired from the coil, as I'm running 12v at the coil. The resistance wire has been bypassed at the steering column.
The power slowly heats the spring to remove the mechanical lock (can't remember exactly how it does it, just look at all the linkages and try adjusting one and you'll see how it all works.
I've got mine set just right, and I love it. Saves Yella trying to throw you through the windscreen on a cold morning.
My electric choke is wired from the coil, as I'm running 12v at the coil. The resistance wire has been bypassed at the steering column.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 09 September 2009 - 05:51 PM.
#12
_Viper_
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Posted 09 September 2009 - 11:48 PM
Heh actually the reason I asked was because im doing a re-wire on my LH and the MSD needs a switched 12v and my painless wiring harness has a fused wire output for a electric choke but im running EFI so dont need it, so was hoping I could use the wire for the choke to switch on the MSD 
But yea just need to confirm it has power while cranking and running... Id check for myself with a multi but Im only half way throught the wiring and my ignition switch is in peices. But looks like Ill just have to wait till I can.
But yea just need to confirm it has power while cranking and running... Id check for myself with a multi but Im only half way throught the wiring and my ignition switch is in peices. But looks like Ill just have to wait till I can.
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