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LX FRONT SPRING REMOVAL


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#1 _DrFegg_

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 11:49 AM

Gday all,
Ive read a few previous threads on this but am still a little bit vague on what to do.Im pulling out the front end this weekend, replacing it with another that has been painted, new bushes ,ball joints etc. I need to re-use my (uncut) standard springs, so they must come out. The engine/trans are also already out so what is the best way to remove the springs? Can i just seperate the lower ball joint, with the spring un-compressed,whilst the front end is in the car or will this be a nasty outcome? I can pull the front end out and then try to remove the springs. Basically can i get them out, without using spring compressors, by dropping the lower control arm? I do have spring compressors but they are the cheapie, external ones, which will not allow me to fit the spring and then remove them. Any advice would be great. Ta.

#2 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 12:28 PM

If the front end is in the car you can place a jack underneath the lower control arm. Once you've separated the ball joint, slowly lower the jack until the spring is no longer compressed.

With the front end out of the car, I've only had success using a internal spring compressor tool. A bit fiddly, but not hard.

#3 GML-31

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 12:33 PM

with front end out I remove shock and put a piece of threaded high tensile rod in and wind the nuts down to take up the tension then split balljoint and unwind the nuts.

#4 76lxhatch

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 12:42 PM

When you crack the joint, leave the nut on so that it allows half aninch movement to crack the joint but it won't fly apart on you (otherwise it will be a very nasty outcome).

You will need an internal spring compressor to refit them safely.

#5 _DrFegg_

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 08:34 PM

thanks for the answers everyone. Getting it out will be fairly straightforward using the jack but it looks like i will have to make myself up a compression tool. A bloke at work said that he used to put all his springs back in using the jack too, but i cant see how it would work without the engine in the body as it will be too light.

#6 76lxhatch

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 06:41 AM

It might work but its not something that I would recommend on a public forum. The compressor is easy to make anyway and you will find it a lot easier and useful for many things.

#7 _beergut_

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 12:06 AM

doesn't the manual explain this?

#8 76lxhatch

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 08:03 AM

The manual shows the genuine GMH tool

Posted Image

Edited by 76lxhatch, 05 December 2009 - 08:04 AM.


#9 Heath

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 09:21 AM

A bloke at work said that he used to put all his springs back in using the jack too, but i cant see how it would work without the engine in the body as it will be too light.

I don't know whether having no engine would make it too light or not, but before you get to that stage you already have a BIG problem: using uncut original springs. You will see what I mean when you actually pull it apart; those things are stupidly long and soft, and so bloody awkward to work with. I've never refitted any and I wouldn't want to try; it's hard enough with moderately low ones.

Why do you want the standard springs anyway? I'd recommend something a bit stiffer and shorter, you won't regret it.

EDIT: Sorry all this talk of internal spring compressors kinda got me thinking you were asking how to put them back in as well. If you want to JUST get them out, I just dropped the lower arm, pushed the arm down as far as it would go with my foot and jammed a pinch bar behind the spring and worked that around a bit til she popped out, and I think I had a steel pipe in where the internal spring compressors go, or maybe that was for another stage of the process... can't remember sorry, but if that works it's a good safety precaution.

Edited by Heath, 05 December 2009 - 09:27 AM.


#10 _The Baron_

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 02:00 PM

I have done it both ways with stock springs and they both have problems.

Out of the car with the internal compressor sux because the plate through the spring becomes trapped between the coils once the lower are is fastened up. There is also a scary amount of energy stored once compressed too.

In the car effort without the weight of the motor will also be a headache as you need the weight to compress the spring. Also as said above, the stupid stock spring is a right pruck (Kiwi talk) to reseat into the lower arm before you can jack it all back into position.

Next time I will put lowered/stiffer springs in if I have to go there again and I will used the vehicle weight.

#11 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 03:15 PM

Thanks for that 76lxhatch. I bought a spring compressor, but won't fit the Torry. With that bar, which I was thinking I'd need to make, it will be just like the manual.

#12 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 12:01 AM

I was wondering, would it work to lay the bottom arm flat with the spring seat over the jack and lift it up flat?

Could I line up the bushes and do the ball joint last? Or would it just be way to hard to move around and line up properly?


Has anyone tried this? I need to do the whole front end on mine...

Edited by Gunmetal LH, 01 February 2010 - 12:03 AM.


#13 fuzzypumper

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 09:39 AM

I was wondering, would it work to lay the bottom arm flat with the spring seat over the jack and lift it up flat?

Could I line up the bushes and do the ball joint last? Or would it just be way to hard to move around and line up properly?


Has anyone tried this? I need to do the whole front end on mine...



No, dont try that. Too risky the arm could fly off in any direction.
Although I the have installed springs with the ball joint still attached by dropping at the bushes,
so at least there was one pivot point attached, but that was with a motor in place and I was lucky I think.

I beleive with no motor in the car, there isnt enough weight to make the ball joint reach the stub axle hole.

#14 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 01:36 AM

I'll still have my motor in...

Would it still be too unstable? Should I just attach the bush end first and do the ball joint end with a jack?

#15 Statler

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 09:19 AM

If you dont want to use spring compressors.....dont wory about wearing safety glasses. Because when when the spring decides to fly out, it will take your head with it!

Seriously.....these things are dangerous & should be treated with care.

Use the right tool for the job!

#16 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 02:01 PM

Understood.

Have seen springs from commy struts go flying- very scary! I haven't done a Torana front end before but fingers crossed my lowered front springs won't extend TOO much...






Maybe I'll compress the spring in a big vice and tack weld the coils together until it's in? Then the fairies can next door can give us a hand... :blink::bliss:

#17 _luv the uc_

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 02:49 PM

Now I am sure I will get critism for this post but I too thought it was stupid when I was told to do it. No doubt it is dangerous but if you asses the risk and minimise the chance of failure it is safe (in my opinion). I have done it myself, completely up to you whether to try it. :tomaatit:
Has anyone else seen the hose straps used to bundle hydraulic hoses on heavy earthmoving equipment? Mainly drill rigs? If not they are similar to a turnbuckle motorbike holdown strap but without the hooks. Tighter they are pulled the harder they hold.

Remove the shocky
Jack the car up from under the lower ball joint
Put two or more straps on the spring while it is loaded and tighten them as much as possible.
Lower the jack
Loosen the lower ball joint nut and release the taper (sounds so easy doent it)
Jack it up again
Remove the balljoint nut
Slowly lower the jack and remove the loaded spring
In your case put the spring into the new crossmember and attach the ball joint with the use of the jack.
If new springs are used external comperssors can be used to compress and fit the straps.
Once the ball joint is attached cut the straps.

#18 Heath

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 05:30 PM

Got a photo of these mate? You've got me interested!

I need to pull my front end apart and do it better. My car doesn't sit flat :P

#19 76lxhatch

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 09:03 PM

I haven't done a Torana front end before but fingers crossed my lowered front springs won't extend TOO much...

If the springs are quite low then you may be OK


Maybe I'll compress the spring in a big vice and tack weld the coils together until it's in?

Don't think I'd be heating springs in any way

#20 Heath

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 09:35 PM

Yeah I wouldn't be welding them either, but MRLXSS was talking about putting them in a big vice or similar and wrapping them with some high tensile fencing wire I think. That he used and apparantly it worked well on WILDUC, his misso's car.

Edited by Heath, 15 February 2010 - 09:36 PM.


#21 rodomo

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 11:53 PM

Chewing gum and bandaids :)
Make that lots of bandaids :spoton:

#22 TerrA LX

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 12:04 AM

Maybe I'll compress the spring in a big vice and tack weld the coils together until it's in? Then the fairies can next door can give us a hand... :blink::bliss:


Shurly you can't be serious???
No body has fairies living next door.

#23 _livo74_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 09:34 AM

added safety tip

For lowered springs... if using a jack (under lower control arm) to compress springs..

first TIE spring to crossmember, using thick car towing strap.

 

tie twice even, so if jack "fails"/bursts hydrolic.. the spring has to snap two pieces of towing strap before comes "flying out", (which just wont be allowed happen)

 

___

as for standard spring.. too long and would be paying someone else to fit, as read here often even getting the right compressor to fit can be a bitch

but, if doing yourself.. tie 5 pieces of thick towing strap! hahaha)   






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