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LH-LX Ignition Switch Wiring


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#1 _Viper_

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 05:42 PM

Hey all, as some know Im fitting a "painless wiring kit" to the Sedan and need to know what wires are what on the Stock ignition switch...

The wires I have from the painless wiring harness are:
2x Red Ign Power B+ (is two of these and they both run to the fuse box and power a few things)
Orange "IGN" Wire
Brown "Acc" Wire
Pink "Coil"
Purple "starter"

So yea there the wires I have and I need to know which points to connect each one to on the stock switch... Here is a pic of the stock switch in a car with stock wiring...

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#2 garth1976

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Posted 11 December 2009 - 11:38 AM

hope this helps. im not sure which wires give you power on acc, ign or normal .

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#3 garth1976

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Posted 11 December 2009 - 07:43 PM

had a second thought on the green wire. think it goes to engine temp curcuit instead of heater curcuit. wire tees out - 1 side to engine temp sender, other side to dash
heres a diagram i have found somewhere on this forum

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#4 adrianh08

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 10:10 AM

Guys I have the EXACT same issue.
Where do both red power wires go to?
What goes to the two earth lugs at the bottom of the ignition switch?
i really need someone to draw the 8 lugs on the ignition switch and put the colours purple, red, red, pink, brown, orange according to where they go and also tell me how to wire the two earth lugs. (I have both Torana and painless wiring diagrams but it still isn't clear as they do not seem to correspond with each other) an email to [email protected] would be hugely appreciated but I will keep checking here too.

#5 Bigfella237

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 12:51 PM

G'day Adrian,

 

I thought we had you all sorted out in your other thread?

 

http://www.gmh-toran...on/#entry989216

 

Put simply:

 

The big red wire in the centre of the connector is power into the switch (this must be sufficient gauge to power everything that runs off the IGN and or ACC circuits)

 

The purple and yellow wires have power only when the key is in the START position.

 

The pink wires have power only when the key is in the IGN position.

 

The brown wire has power when the key is either in the IGN position or the ACC position.

 

The other two wires (green plus whatever colour that earth wire is) are on a completely separate circuit and are bridged only when the key is in the START position (this is used to test the telltale bulb in the dash when you engage the starter).

 

This last circuit (green wire) can be left disconnected. The switch itself does not need an earth.

 

As I suggested in the other thread, your EFI system will need power both while cranking and when in the IGN position so I suggest you tie the yellow and pink wires together and treat them both as your IGN feed.



#6 adrianh08

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 01:25 PM

Thanks mate. I certainly did not discount your feedback on the previous thread. What threw me is the two separate lugs that some suggested needed to be earthed. Saying the ignition switch does not need to be earthed clears that up.
I have wired the ignition switch the way you have suggested and I guess was just seeking clarification from someone who has done the exact same thing with a painless harness.
I am just waiting for a new light switch to arrive early next week so I can wire it in then I can put it all into the car and see how that works out.
I will happily let you know how I get on and do appreciate your help.

#7 Bigfella237

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 01:46 PM

Ah okay, I was just googling this wiring loom and what I didn't realise is that these "21 Circuit" wiring looms actually replace every circuit in entire the car.

 

I had wrongly assumed (and you know what they say about assumptions) that the extra wiring loom was only to run the engine management system?

 

If I was building these commercially I think I'd update the technology and run the whole thing over a CAN Bus, have a noad in each relay box, then mount one relay box in the trunk, one under the dash, and one in the engine bay.

 

That way the only wires you have running around the car are a main power wire and a twisted-pair Bus, then all of the messy individual wiring is handled locally, not running the length of the car?

 

But that might scare your average backyard mechanic!



#8 adrianh08

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 02:06 PM

Yes mate that is spot on. Actually good for me as I didn't get much of the wiring at all with the car when I bought it and what I did get was stuffed. I am happy to replace everything. I guess the only lingering question I have is does the ecu provide power to the coils after the engine has started or do I need to still put the yellow and pink wires together to provide power to the coils whilst it it running as per your advice and the Torana wiring diagram shows that too.
There is one lead that I connect into the coils in the LS3 harness form the painless wiring from the ignition switch which connects to the pink wire from the ignition switch. Do I need to connect the yellow wire into it so they both feed power into that LS3 coil wire the whole time? Or does the ecu provide power to the coils once it is going?

#9 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 02:07 PM

CAN BUS wiring so sucks lol.
I'll agree that it does tidy things up a little etc. But the whole can't ad things in on this line because it will effect other's on that line I hate.




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