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Refurbishing the Bosch HEI distributor


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#1 fuzzypumper

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 10:08 AM

Merry Christmas, so here's a present.

I recently reconditioned my spare Bosch HEI distributor and took many photos
so I compiled an instructional document of the procedure.

Feel free to offer any advice, suggestions and corrections to the document.


View and Download here https://1drv.ms/b/s!...o-WJztolDVMaBQQ

View here https://www.4shared..../pdf/oOiyBOZVei


Edited by fuzzypumper, 25 September 2017 - 11:12 PM.


#2 _torbirdie_

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 11:31 AM

Merry Christmas, so here's a present.

I recently reconditioned my spare Bosch HEI distributor and took many photos
so I compiled an instructional document of the procedure.

Feel free to offer any advice, suggestions and corrections to the document.

Get the PDF here http://www.4shared.c...den_Bosch_.html

Great presentation fuzzy.

A couple of minor suggestions: p4, use the correct names, it will avoid confusion for those that need to obtain replacement parts. The plate is known as the reluctor.
p5, where you remove the backup plate, the bit with the six lugs on it is called the stator. The pickup coil that is fitted is also known as the reluctor coil.

p25, there is no mention of setting the air gap between the stator and reluctor. One way to do it is to put small pieces of folded paper between each of the lobes(probably there a better name) of the stator and the reluctor lugs, then tighten down the stator ring with the allen key bolts and this will ensure an even air gap.

You are right about testing the module, your test will definitely highlight one that has no chance of working, but will not detect the majority of faulty modules which have other faults.

Well done.

Edited by torbirdie, 25 December 2009 - 11:36 AM.


#3 Squarepants

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 01:26 PM

Nice work!
This will come in handy very soon.

#4 TerrA LX

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 06:52 PM

Thanx for that.

#5 oldjohnno

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 09:25 AM

Very nicely done. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

#6 fuzzypumper

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 07:02 PM

Thanks. It was as much for my benefit as well as others.
Taking pictures is one thing but remebering what you did 5-10 years down the track is another.

I have revised the document to version 1.1 and now contains a procedure for setting
the reluctor to stator air gap.
Use the same download link at thr top of the post to download.

Again if there are any changes, additions or corrections people would like me make, let me know.

Cheers.

Edited by fuzzypumper, 26 December 2009 - 07:08 PM.


#7 jamecs

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 07:31 PM

great article mate, just took my dizzy out, thought the drive gear had a fracture in it on a previous install, it appears i was mistaken.. different car.. good

#8 rodomo

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 12:19 AM

p25, there is no mention of setting the air gap between the stator and reluctor. One way to do it is to put small pieces of folded paper between each of the lobes(probably there a better name) of the stator and the reluctor lugs, then tighten down the stator ring with the allen key bolts and this will ensure an even air gap.


Well done Fuzzy! :spoton:
Like the setting the airgaps solution, just prayed and hoped on one I pulled apart.

#9 Heath

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 12:52 PM

Fantastic, cheers

#10 jamecs

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 04:05 PM

Guys, what's the consensus here on using vacuum advance - I've never had it hooked up as I heard you get better performance without?? Still need my quick response (in lieu of avgas!)

#11 _torbirdie_

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 08:45 PM

Guys, what's the consensus here on using vacuum advance - I've never had it hooked up as I heard you get better performance without?? Still need my quick response (in lieu of avgas!)


I dont think there is any value in not using the vac advance. What is true that for WOT, the vac advance does nothing, so for race engines or constant load engines it is not a consideration.

Given that most road use of a car is not done at WOT, then vac advance will aid running temp, drivebility and fuel economy. The reasoning is that at small throttle openings(and generally high inlet vac), where the fuel mixture is less dense, the fuel burns slower, hence the need to advance the spark

Edited by torbirdie, 27 December 2009 - 08:48 PM.


#12 jamecs

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Posted 28 December 2009 - 01:37 PM

Ok, that's interesting.. cheers

#13 lcv871

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 09:31 PM

cheers mate top write up.

#14 TerrA LX

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Posted 06 February 2010 - 11:24 PM

TTT not a sticky???

#15 fuzzypumper

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 08:49 PM

Document has be updated to revision 1.3 with the following information:
-Wiring into red motor holden
-Repairing a broken reluctor locating lug.

Refurbishing the Holden Bosch HEI Distributor Rev1.3.pdf
http://www.4shared.c...den_Bosch_.html

#16 TerrA LX

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 09:37 PM

May I add, there is no need to change the coil or add any wires.

Edited by TerrA LX, 14 February 2010 - 09:40 PM.


#17 rodomo

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 11:05 PM

I thought input voltage was proportional to output voltage? :dontknow:

#18 TerrA LX

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 11:35 PM

I thought input voltage was proportional to output voltage? :dontknow:


I am missing your point.

#19 rodomo

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 11:57 PM

I'm assuming you mean to run the existing coil and resistor wire?

#20 TerrA LX

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 12:19 AM

I'm assuming you mean to run the existing coil and resistor wire?


Yes.

#21 fuzzypumper

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 12:06 PM

The ignition module was designed to run on 12volts, I cant tell you how well it would run at 7volts and still
using the original coil and ballast wire.

This would be " POINTLESS " excersise ;)

However if your going to undertake this whole distributor upgrade to the HEI unit,why
wouldn't you take advantage of the High Energy Coil which produces thousands more volts
than the standard coil, in this scenario. Its how the whole was designed.

#22 rodomo

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 05:28 PM

The ignition module was designed to run on 12volts, I cant tell you how well it would run at 7volts and still
using the original coil and ballast wire.

This would be " POINTLESS " excersise ;)

However if your going to undertake this whole distributor upgrade to the HEI unit,why
wouldn't you take advantage of the High Energy Coil which produces thousands more volts
than the standard coil, in this scenario. Its how the whole was designed.


Heath's is running the original wiring and coil (unless he's done something in the last week?) with no reported problem other than this: http://www.gmh-toran...=1

But I'm with you Fuzzy, the only real advantage of changing the dissy without changing the coil and wiring would be the maintenance free trigger? Unless the H.E.I dissy gives a longer saturation time? :dontknow: But still wouldn't be as good as the whole conversion.

Edited by rodomo, 15 February 2010 - 05:29 PM.


#23 TerrA LX

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 05:31 PM

The ignition module was designed to run on 12volts, I cant tell you how well it would run at 7volts and still using the original coil and ballast wire.


Last three I done perform faultlessly.

#24 TerrA LX

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 05:38 PM

However if your going to undertake this whole distributor upgrade to the HEI unit,why
wouldn't you take advantage of the High Energy Coil which produces thousands more volts
than the standard coil, in this scenario. Its how the whole was designed.


The spark plug will only consume what volts are needed to jump the gap, so if the system (leads cap etc) is in good serviceable condition and the plugs are gapped correctly and clean you may not need over 20 000V anyway... the last couple I have done didn't anyway.

All in all it would not hurt to change them, just wanted to say that there is normally, except for hi comp engines such as race or LPG, no need if the old coil, leads etc if they are good.

#25 fuzzypumper

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 09:26 PM

OK, Good to know that if you could not afford the extra expense of a coil and plugs to match,
that simply installing the dizzy would work.

However, I still think you would run into trouble sooner or later with a dodgy ballast wire or
faulty old wiring, underpowering a module that was designed for 12-14volts.
I'll go with recommending the full upgrade for reliability.




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