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Twisted diff tube


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#1 LJ RB30

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 10:08 PM

After having lots of trouble twisting Hardy Spicer slip yokes I finally found a VL turbo slip yoke late last year & had Phil at Final drive fit it to the tailshaft. Well the VLT yoke has done 50+ runs down the strip with no signs at all of twisting :clappin: . Motor now has 403rwhp :rockon: :rockon:. Went to fast Friday a few weeks ago ( first Friday ever) & matched my PB of 11.8 @ 122mph on the first run :P ( & had developed a bad miss all the way down the strip???? :confused: ) next run was 11.6 @ 122mph :D :D . Cleaned the plugs (thanks to the Hepitisis B guys!!) & closed the gap to 0.9mm, next run, still a miss but slightly better, 11.59 @ 123mph :D :D :D. Forth run, did burnout, watched the tree, then BANG!!! :cry: After they pushed me back i found the rear uni straps on the diff (have yoke not flange set up) had let go, then i notice the diff was leaking oil. Looked a bit closer to find i had twisted the diff tube in the center!! :RIP:
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The tailshaft was fine, yoke not twisted, just some scratches from the loop. Got a VS housing cut down by Phil & gunna put a flange on the diff. Hope to have it back down the strip next Friday to see what gives up next!! :spoton: :spoton:

#2 wot179

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 10:14 PM

Nice work!!Posted Image

You know you're trying your best when you keep bustin stuff!!

123 should be good for a 10.

Change your ratio while its apart.

#3 dattoman

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 10:15 PM

You Trevor are a hoon

Well done

#4 LJ RB30

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 10:24 PM

Nice work!!Posted Image

You know you're trying your best when you keep bustin stuff!!

123 should be good for a 10.

Change your ratio while its apart.


Just put 3.89 in 2 weeks ago, 90/10's in the front, had 3.45 till then. I'm still learning to drive with the new ratio but i like where it FINALLY starting to go!! Yeah the mph look promising but it's a manual (& no plans of ever changing that) but would be stoked to do a low 11 :clappin:

#5 wot179

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 10:35 PM

Learn to flat change it and just RIP the gears.

You will either go faster or break more stuff.

Autos are for wooses .....

Does it 60ft ok?

#6 dattoman

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 10:47 PM

4.11's
Don't know why you didn't straight off

#7 warrenm

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 06:44 AM

Just hold your right foot flat & don't lift it till you get through the traps. :rockon: The rev limiter will make sure it doesn't rev to hard.

#8 rodomo

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 07:33 AM

We need a forum member's "blow-up" pic thread. :spoton:

#9 _Drag lc_

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 07:51 AM

yep and ill second that rob.

i have some pics that would go good in there..... hehe.

#10 Heath

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 08:46 AM

Thanks for sharing Trevor, very interested in seeing how this turns out.

#11 LJ RB30

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 11:37 AM

4.11's
Don't know why you didn't straight off


Didn't do the 4.11 cose up till late December it was street driven whenever possible & i live a bit out of town so it was doing a few highway miles, the 3.45's were great to drive with & has been know to be slipped into overdrive at 200kph then wind the needle around to the second odometer digit (all under controlled conditions of course ;) ). Who said i was a HOON!! :3gears:

WOT179

I used to flat change my old 202 & close ratio Muncie 20+ years ago, it ran a 13.9 @ 92mph, with 3.55 and a hurt LSD but haven't had the balls yet to flat change this baby YET! It's mad enough now when you get up it!! :P

#12 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 11:55 AM

It looks like the welding of the upper mount to the cast centre may have contributed to the failure.

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This style of bracket may be stronger. Picture from this thread.

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#13 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 12:15 PM

I am with ls2lxhatch on this one, I would be questioning the welding techniques.
These diffs should handle 500hp.

#14 Heath

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 11:42 AM

I'd never noticed those brackets on Youngy's car. I was wondering if anyone else was seeing the apparant weldment problem.

#15 _Bad Blood_

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 07:01 PM

Hey Trev, you gonna give S/ST a go on saturday nights? And you are a HOONPosted Image

#16 LJ RB30

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 12:26 AM

Hey Trev, you gonna give S/ST a go on saturday nights? And you are a HOONPosted Image


Hey Bernie! Good to see ya joined the forum mate! Yeah mate, gunna keep chasing that ellusive traction!!! Haven't done much with mine but took it for a thrash around Wanerroo a few months ago, it showed up a brake problem that i'm trying to sort with some R33 calipers & a VT master cylinder. Hows Hepatitis? Ready to go? More NOS?

#17 _Bad Blood_

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 09:55 PM

I might try a bit more may be 80hp but not any more just enough to qualify and then turn it back down to 50hp but first I have to put back the higher lift cam I had in at the start and throughout most of the last season I haven't tried this cam with N2O yet. I also got a heater belt and gauge for the bottle.

#18 _Bad Blood_

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Posted 16 October 2010 - 01:29 PM

Trev what went bang on the torana last night?Posted Image Posted Image

#19 LJ RB30

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 05:05 PM

Trev what went bang on the torana last night?Posted Image Posted Image


Hey Bernie

Front uni this time! Was a stock VL turbo job. Tailshaft is stuffed. Have got a larger yoke ready, just got to get the old one out of the box!!! It ain't coming out easy! Still turns ok but thinking it may have been twisted then pushed onto the output shaft.

#20 _Bad Blood_

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 08:55 PM


Trev what went bang on the torana last night?Posted Image Posted Image


Hey Bernie

Front uni this time! Was a stock VL turbo job. Tailshaft is stuffed. Have got a larger yoke ready, just got to get the old one out of the box!!! It ain't coming out easy! Still turns ok but thinking it may have been twisted then pushed onto the output shaft.



Bugga I thought it was the diff from where I was sitting(in the other lane 1 car back).At least u won the other car broke out I think.I broke out on the first run but got a P/B 12.18secPosted Image u never know I might get that 11 one day, I'm racing on the 29 -30th so I might see u there if u get your car fixed.

#21 LJ RB30

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:43 PM

Bit of an update & put the pics back up from the start of the thread that i moved in photobucket & they disappeared here!!

I seen a link to thread come up in another thread here about diffs so i thought i should set the record straight about my Borgy experience so far.

This is what happened to my BW78 awhile back after i got a bit of (but not enough!!!) traction at the drags.


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I shortened the diff myself in the shed about 10 years ago

This failure i believe had nothing to do with the Borgy strength as such, as many have said & i have seen these diffs do sub 10 sec passes with alot more power than i have.

After cutting the tubes to length, the cut is in the middle of the lower control arm mount, i fitted a sleeve inside & did small alternate welds from side to side etc so as not to generate to much heat i one spot. No jig for the tubes was used just slow patient welding although i did have some aluminium channel bolted on either end to measure across the diff to check for warpage then bolt on again at 90 degrees to remeasure

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The result was absolutely brilliant i must admit as the finished axles slipped in perfectly (big pat on the back & have another beer!)

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Then came the mounts, i did alot of short welds again but it ended up pulling 1 of the tubes 1-2mm!! Bloody pissed off to say the least :furious: :furious: :furious:

The issue of the failure i believe was with how i straightened the housing.

Not the easiest or best way to do it but it was a bit to big to take to work on the quiet so more beer & head scratching & i did this!

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You can see the circled section where i heated it with the oxy then jacked the crap out of it. It took many goes to get it right but it got it.

This is also the side that broke the plug welds & twisted the tube.

I now have a VS diff shortened by Final Drive (thanks Phil) & the mounts are welded the same as my old 1 ie.. standard top mount welded to the tube & center. If i ever have to do another housing (god forbid) i will fabricate the mounts myself as i hated having to cut up good housing just for mounts.

A BW78 is still my preferred choice as a conversion cose of unsprung weight compared to average 9", cheap & readily available.

They would handle a shit hot red motor without any drama's ( but you can break anything if you try hard enough)

Leave the Bango's & toothpick axles for social Sunday drives, good condition spares will run out one day!

#22 _Bad Blood_

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Posted 09 January 2011 - 01:53 PM

Hey Trev pulled 11.80 on Friday.

#23 LJ RB30

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Posted 09 January 2011 - 02:59 PM

Hey Trev pulled 11.80 on Friday.


Bloody shit hot mate!!

Finally get the needles sorted?

#24 _Bad Blood_

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 08:16 PM

The last Wednesday I saw u we did a few test runs without the nos and found the carbies were not running lean but when we ran with the nos it was a bit not much but a bit so we richen'd up the fuel when the nos came on and it ran spot on, then shoved 50 more horse power of nos down its neck and presto 11.80 :buttrock:

#25 LJ RB30

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 08:45 PM

The last Wednesday I saw u we did a few test runs without the nos and found the carbies were not running lean but when we ran with the nos it was a bit not much but a bit so we richen'd up the fuel when the nos came on and it ran spot on, then shoved 50 more horse power of nos down its neck and presto 11.80 :buttrock:


Go the giggle gas!!




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