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red 6 with davis craig elec water pump


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#1 _kdsa_

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 06:45 PM

Hey guys has any one fitted an electric water pump and removed the original, how did it work , where did you mount it, did it hold temp better .looking at doing this on my motor holden 6 blow through turbo big hp

#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:15 PM

Seen quiet a few running with the standard water pump and pulley, with an electric motor grafted above it and a v belt running down to it.

Cheers.

#3 _Drag lc_

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:47 PM

arh they are quite common on the hot 202's at the speedway . must be easier to get the temp in the engine when on alcohol or just more efficent at pumping the water to the rear mounted radiator? have seen a few diffrent setups but never run one myself .

anyway how did it go on the dyno mate?

Edited by Drag lc, 28 June 2010 - 07:48 PM.


#4 _kdsa_

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 08:09 PM

hey mate sorry i didnt get back to you , it made 185 rwkw i dint get time to hook up the cooler therfor only running low boost, aldo i need to up the rear houysing size very responsive but runs out of legs, still got plenty to go, just sold my ute, was tosing up selling the motor but have decided to keep, im wondering about the pump beaue mine does run a little hot, wanna run a pwr v8radiator and a 14 'spal fan rekon that will have it sorted. What sort of power are you chasing draglc. im toying with somthing at the moment with getting rid of the original water pump , il keep ya posted



#5 greens nice

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 09:02 PM

we just made up an ally plate to cover the water pump hole in the block, drilled and tapped 2 holes on it and bolted the top half of a red 6 thermostat housing on it. the pump sits just in front of the orig fuel pump location..
it works good if your stretched for space between the motor and radiator

cheers



#6 _BlownUC202_

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 09:39 PM

I had one on my burnout car all i did was made a plate to blank the standard pump hole cut out a hole in it and made a short steal tube and mounted the pump to it with a short rubber hose. It stayed in place and worked great keeped then engine cool. It was just a 202 with a solid cam yella terra head and tripple 1.5 SUs and it made 140hp at the wheels with a busted up trimatic.

#7 Heath

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 10:21 PM

What kind of water pump does it have at the moment? some chinese shit with a pressed sheet metal impeller?

Getting a water pump that actually supplies decent pressure and doesn't cavitate should be a priority. That may be able to be achieved with an electric one, I imagine it would be possible for that to do a good job but it isn't the only option (I've never worked with them but I am aware that they are becoming increasingly popular with the V8 guys). Mechanically driven water pumps can be hotted up with improved impellers and have housing modifications to improve their performance in the same way that you can port a head. You don't hear about it much because not many people do it.

Depending on what the car is doing, the radiator, fan setup, thermostat etc can also be pretty important.

#8 _kdsa_

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 10:31 AM

[Thanks guys for your imput very helpful and just the info i was after, my block has been grout filled and there is little room umder the impellers now, so i think the ewp is the way to go,cheers ken

#9 _torbirdie_

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 02:19 PM

[Thanks guys for your imput very helpful and just the info i was after, my block has been grout filled and there is little room umder the impellers now, so i think the ewp is the way to go,cheers ken


Are ewp's being fitted as standard equipment on newer cars? might be the answer to if they really work or are good value for money.

#10 _Drag lc_

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 06:43 PM

Hey Ken,

How much grout has the block got in it?.

i have a n/a 202ci with grout level with the bottom of water pump spigot in front of block to the bottom of the rear welsh plug and it has done a fair few klms (and one strip meeting hehe) now with no noticable diffrence in engine temp ,to no grout.

Cheers Hayden

#11 _kdsa_

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 07:47 PM

hayden how are ya mate,

so are you running the orig water pump on the motor and what about the one your building, spoke to eze 10s performance yesterday he said they grout fill all there blocks and they all run an ewp, so i figured i go that path, also spoke with pwr today anew radiator for mine with 13 inch fan 1150, there pricey.

so mate what turbo you got on that thing anyway, what power are you going for.

#12 _coupe202_

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 09:54 PM

I've almost completed the ewp conversion on my engine, I hoping the new alloy rad and twin thermo fans will keep the engine at a good temperature.

#13 _kdsa_

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 10:10 PM

hey mate any pics



#14 _2wild4u_

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 10:54 PM

here is mine i have just finished using the davies craig pump, problem is it works to good, so im going to fit the controller to it now, currently when driving car only gets up to 40-50 degrees
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#15 Heath

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 11:51 PM

...is the thermostat right?

Running a motor too cool will frOck it very promptly.

#16 _2wild4u_

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 12:10 AM

yes thermostat is fine, nothing else was changed apart from the water pump setup, thats why i will put the controller on it now so it can regulate voltage to the pump

#17 _Drag lc_

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 05:38 PM

Hi Ken,

yeah mate it has got genuine holden water pump on it it hasnt got alot of comp but it has ova 11to 1.

yeah runnas engine will have the genuine water pump fitted aswell as we have modified the water flow in the head to help prevent detonation as im sure u are well aware of, if yours has a iron head on it.

Yeah it has a GT42R on it , hp well runna202 (who actually ownes the engine) maybeable to give u a more informed answer as i carnt be certain. but a far amount im guessing.

any pics of yours Ken?

Cheers Hayden

#18 _kdsa_

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 06:59 PM

mate your set up looks very neat i like it, to cool ,dreaming i can say the same thing i fitted a genuine pump tonight seems good on idle, take her for a spin tomorrowsee what it like then. Yeah mate ill get some pics up real soon.

#19 _Drag lc_

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 07:46 PM

Hey Ken ,
heres a link to my n/a engine

http://www.gmh-toran...opic=30907&st=0

#20 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 08:02 PM

yes thermostat is fine, nothing else was changed apart from the water pump setup, thats why i will put the controller on it now so it can regulate voltage to the pump


I doubt that the electric water pump would be responsible for the engine running at 40-50 degrees. I just do not see how it is possible without the water going through the radiator.

I personally would not vary the speed of the electric water pump. In my opinion the faster the water flows around the block the better regardless of the temperature. The last thing you want is hot spots in the heads when the block has not reached operating temperature.

#21 _kdsa_

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 08:40 PM

Here is a couple of pics i did for a magazine photo shoot, that motor will now be put in a sedan i have waiting , was in my ute

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#22 _@milco@_

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 11:12 PM


yes thermostat is fine, nothing else was changed apart from the water pump setup, thats why i will put the controller on it now so it can regulate voltage to the pump


I doubt that the electric water pump would be responsible for the engine running at 40-50 degrees. I just do not see how it is possible without the water going through the radiator.

I personally would not vary the speed of the electric water pump. In my opinion the faster the water flows around the block the better regardless of the temperature. The last thing you want is hot spots in the heads when the block has not reached operating temperature.



altho flowing to fast can be a problem as well, because it will not have time to "absorb" the heat form the various parts of the engine/metal/cast..,..

#23 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 11:18 PM

altho flowing to fast can be a problem as well, because it will not have time to "absorb" the heat form the various parts of the engine/metal/cast..,..


It turns out that the faster water flows the more turbulence is produced and the better the heat transfer is. The Stewart Components tech tips are definitely worth a read.

Stewart Components Tech Tip #5
Coolant must flow through a radiator tube at a velocity adequate to create turbulence. The turbulence allows the water in the center of the tube to be forced against the outside of the tube, which allows for better thermal transfer between the coolant and the tube surface. The older radiators benefited from baffling inside the tanks and forcing the coolant through a serpentine configuration. This increased velocity and thus the required turbulence was restored.

Stewart Components Tech Tip #3
A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly. However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. This situation is a common cause of so-called "hot spots", which can lead to failures.

#24 _2wild4u_

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 11:26 PM

I doubt that the electric water pump would be responsible for the engine running at 40-50 degrees. I just do not see how it is possible without the water going through the radiator


the water is still going through the radiator, i think the problem is the water is being pushed around too fast, i even checked the temperature of the block, heads etc with a laser temp reader, car never went over 90 degrees before electric pump was fitted, which is why i didnt want to experiment with the electric pump.

#25 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 11:29 PM

If the thermostat is working then how is water getting to the radiator when the engine is cold?




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