26 replies to this topic

[S pack]

autosol wont be enough, are they made of ali? they look like they are, if so i should be able sand out the scratches and repolish, if only i had a spare to try by i dont so just was after u guys opinions

G/day V6 UC
What sort of chrome trims are you talking about??? Can you do a test on the back of the trim where it won't be seen???
Pics could be handy.

[Toranavista]

Are they chrome or stainless on a UC?

If its chrome plastic then you will need to get them re-done.

If its stainless then 2000 wet and dry (rubbed wet along the scratch) will work then on the buff with some compound. They'll come up perfectly.

UC are polished alloy with a protective coating of clear anodising.

[Heath]

Clear anodizing a little part isn't a big deal - that might be the way to go.

[Heath]

Anodizing alloy makes it look a little different to what clear coating it does.

When I made up my shifter knob, collet and horn button out of machine grade ally, it was clear anodized and that process turned it a bit more pale and satin-ish finish rather than a high gloss look, but for all intents and purposes you probably won't notice the difference. I'm not sure, depends on the particular material

[Ando]

What about that real-chrome-look spray paint finish & then clear coat over.
I'm considering doing that to my aluminum molding but not sure if anyone has tried that coating for exterior trim.
I can't seem to find any anodizers that can achieve an original finish.

[Heath]

I think that a properly polished alloy or stainless component looks better than anything painted, and surely it's more piss farting around to do it that way with lots of coats etc.

Anodizing is just sitting a part in a few baths, can the look of it really vary that much if the material is the same as original?

[Heath]

Yeah scratches like that are very common.

I reckon the 'chrome paint' looks great but it ain't chrome - unless you did everything with that paint, I don't think it would look good. That's just my 2c

[Ando]

I went to an anodizer to see if they can do the job.
What they told me is they have to do is firstly is de-anodize the factory coating in a bath.
You take the item back & take the dents & scratches out. Return the molding & they will bath the item for final coating.
The problem is they can't replicate the factory finish. They can only achieve a duller finish which doesn't suit me.
So that's where I'm at the moment until I find a better solution.
I haven't done a sample either with the chrome paint idea but since this subject has come up, I'm open to solutions.

[Heath]

Fair enough

[308mate]

Old thread, but I'm keen to see if anyone has gone down the path of refurbishing the alloy moulds around the LX windows. Mine could do with a freshen up...it appears as though they have a clear coat from the factory - i'm not sure that this is the same thing as anodising? Anyone shed some further light?

[jd lj]

After looking at the pictures I'd be surprised if they are aluminium. On Lc /Lj Torana's all the window and gutter moulds are stainless steel. This also applies to commodore's and most other early Holden's from the 60's to 80's as far as I know.

Whether it's stainless or alloy the procedure is the same, knock out any dings, file flat, sand the whole surface working your way through the various grits down to 2000 grit and then polish. If you only do a small section it won't match the rest.

The original finish on our alloy head and taillight surrounds is apparently referred to as
"bright silver ", not just a clear anodising over a polished surface.

I used the above method on all my stainless window and gutter moulds and they now look like new or better.

JD

[Ice]

Hey James can paint be removed from lj tail light bezels with any damage to them

Without sorry

[wot179]

Thinners and a rag, Gene.

[Ice]

Really craig

[jd lj]

Hi Gene, use automotive paint stripper, it usually takes a few goes to get it all off. Make sure you don't use anything abrasive as it will scratch the anodising.

JD