Looking like a great project, but i have to ask, are you cutting away the metal in front of the wheel arch because of the diameter of wheel you are planning on using? Ive got flares and am putting only 14" on the car, havnt touched the sheetmetal in that area or the door. Think it a bit neater and also makes it a lot easier if I ever decide to go back to flareless. Either way it looks like a really good job your doing, keep the photos coming!
LX sedan
Started by
76lxhatch
, Sep 27 2010 12:21 PM
192 replies to this topic
#52
View GaragePosted 29 December 2010 - 08:56 PM
DrFegg yes based on the similar sized wheels and tyres on the hatch (15x10 with 265/50 tyres) I'm going to need that clearance, particularly with the car lowered. I may have rounded the cutout forward a little further than required but the door needed cutting regardless so I figure make it a nicer shape in preference to making a minimal cut. I'm quite happy that there is no going back to flareless :-)
Gave the underside another coat today, and painted the inside of the boot.
Also fixed a bit more rust in the top right of the rear windscreen frame:
a few small holes in the driver door sill:
and started on the rust in the left bottom corner of the rear windscreen:
(didn't finish welding in new pieces yet)
Gave the underside another coat today, and painted the inside of the boot.
Also fixed a bit more rust in the top right of the rear windscreen frame:
a few small holes in the driver door sill:
and started on the rust in the left bottom corner of the rear windscreen:
(didn't finish welding in new pieces yet)
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:49 PM.
#53
Posted 30 December 2010 - 03:14 PM
Finished the repair to the left lower corner of the rear windscreen surround today:
Also took the shell outside and water blasted the wheel wells again, then turned it completely upside down for the first time to let it dry in the sun:
I love having a rotisserie!
Painted the wheel wells to match the underside:
Also took the shell outside and water blasted the wheel wells again, then turned it completely upside down for the first time to let it dry in the sun:
I love having a rotisserie!
Painted the wheel wells to match the underside:
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:49 PM.
#54
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2010 - 03:40 PM
coming along nice now. mine has the same few little piss me off holes under the scuff plates also but ill leave them till last i think as mine has gone in the rear glass appiture on the same side as yours. i think they must have came off the the factory floor with rust inbuilt in the same spots on all the Torana's 
keep up the good work, i just wish it wasnt so hot in my shed so i could do some work on mine 
keep up the good work, i just wish it wasnt so hot in my shed so i could do some work on mine
#55
_DrFegg_
_DrFegg_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2010 - 05:56 PM
Mate while you still have those holes, grab a couple of cans of cavity protection spray (wax). They are in aerosol cans and come with a nifty applicator. Basically a flexible hose with a special spray end that sprays at almost 180 degrees from the head.Its pretty much closest to a factory application that you can get and beats fish oil etc, hands down. Will not smell, run (for weeks after like fish oil) or damage paint, so it can even be applied after painting. I know wurth make it (who supply many top tier manufacturers) but there are other brands too, but you have to buy it from proper paint suppliers (like PPG). Some of the large dealerships have it. Great sttuff, bit pricey (wurth cans are about $30 EACH) but in my opinion ,well wurth (haha) the trouble.
#56
Posted 30 December 2010 - 06:53 PM
Yeah I'm going to have to do something like that for the inside of the plenum, I'd also like to do around the inside edges of the roof and pillars and whatever I can get into the sills. Not sure what holes you mean though? When I had the windscreen edges cut open I put rust killer etc in there, although most of it is accessible from the boot anyway.
#57
_DrFegg_
_DrFegg_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2010 - 09:21 PM
I meant the ones in the door sill but looks like youve already patched them.Think you can still use the grommet hole at the back of the body side.Yeah I'm going to have to do something like that for the inside of the plenum, I'd also like to do around the inside edges of the roof and pillars and whatever I can get into the sills. Not sure what holes you mean though? When I had the windscreen edges cut open I put rust killer etc in there, although most of it is accessible from the boot anyway.
#58
Posted 31 December 2010 - 06:16 AM
Ah, yes there are grommet holes front and rear so hopefully they will do, cheers
#59
Posted 30 January 2011 - 03:31 PM
Found some enthusiasm this weekend and got back into a bit of body work. Fixed some minor rust in the left rear:
Marked out the flare fitment and cut the left rear guard:
and door:
Marked out the flare fitment and cut the left rear guard:
and door:
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:50 PM.
#60
Posted 01 February 2011 - 01:44 PM
Cleaned and painted some of the front suspension components:
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:50 PM.
#61
Posted 05 March 2011 - 11:26 AM
Trimmed the firewall edge on the passenger side:
and started filling unwanted holes in the engine bay, including smoothing out the original brake line indents in the inner guards, as I will be hiding as much of the wiring and brake lines as possible
and started filling unwanted holes in the engine bay, including smoothing out the original brake line indents in the inner guards, as I will be hiding as much of the wiring and brake lines as possible
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:51 PM.
#62
_SLR Torrie_
_SLR Torrie_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 March 2011 - 12:50 PM
nial8r I tried that but I'm not patient enough so I cheated and cut a window in the floor ;-)
A little more progress...
Fixed some rust in the front of the driver side sill, before:
and after:
Also chopped the firewall seam on the driver side, and pushed the edge back a few mm for wheel clearance at hard lock:
(you can see how far forward the original seam protruded by the bit at the top of the pic)
welded and undersealed:
Also tidied up the underbody enough to start putting some paint on today:
the same black will go over the existing underseal in the wheel wells/guards also once I've cleaned it up a bit
Hopefully get a few things tidied up tomorrow then it will be ready to spin around and do the rear windscreen rust, guard chop and firewall seam on the passenger side
Very nice work on the car mate. Gonna turnout great when finished. Was just wondering what is the black paint you've been using on the underside of the car? Is it POR15? Thanks.
#63
Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:03 AM
I'm too cheap to buy POR15 (besides which its really meant for painting over rust, the stuff that was in the engine bay came off with the water blaster as it wasn't stuck to anything). I bought a 4L of the Septone subframe black at half price when Supercheap switched to 3M and it works great, can spray or brush it on. The result has a bit of gloss, seems to adhere very well and is more hard wearing than your average paint. I don't seem to have any photos but I've since done the wheel wells too - touched up any damaged areas of the existing stoneguard with undersealer then painted over the whole lot with the subframe black so it all blends in.
#64
Posted 08 June 2011 - 04:57 PM
I started cutting the rust out of the radiator support some time ago, made a replacement inner piece:
then got bored and moved on to the beaver panel:
which necessitated removing one end of the rotisserie, so I turned it upside down first for easy access. Reasonably clean under the old panel, just a very minor repair and a tidy up:
then cut the new panel to suit and weld it on, back on the rotisserie:
It has a layer of rust primer on it for protection for now, but will be sanded back when the rest of the car is prepped for paint.
then got bored and moved on to the beaver panel:
which necessitated removing one end of the rotisserie, so I turned it upside down first for easy access. Reasonably clean under the old panel, just a very minor repair and a tidy up:
then cut the new panel to suit and weld it on, back on the rotisserie:
It has a layer of rust primer on it for protection for now, but will be sanded back when the rest of the car is prepped for paint.
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:51 PM.
#65
Posted 09 August 2011 - 04:24 PM
Finally found some interest in this again, started making a replacement outer piece for the bottom of the radiator support.
Made a cardboard template and traced onto some fresh steel stock
Cut out and cleaned to bare steel
Bent into rough shape (a little welding and grinding at the V in the centre), three quarters done but time to give the hammering a rest for the day
(you can see here why the original part needed replacing)
Need to finish the bends on the bottom and tidy it all up a bit, seems like it will fit fine.
Made a cardboard template and traced onto some fresh steel stock
Cut out and cleaned to bare steel
Bent into rough shape (a little welding and grinding at the V in the centre), three quarters done but time to give the hammering a rest for the day
(you can see here why the original part needed replacing)
Need to finish the bends on the bottom and tidy it all up a bit, seems like it will fit fine.
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:52 PM.
#66
_Liam_
_Liam_
-
- Guests
Posted 09 August 2011 - 06:42 PM
That's amazing, how did you make that inner piece? Awesome work mate!
#67
Posted 09 August 2011 - 07:27 PM
The inner piece from the previous post? That one I made in several pieces and welded together although in retrospect I probably could have made it from one piece like the outer. Its all just bend 'n' bash until you get it right 
#68
_Liam_
_Liam_
-
- Guests
Posted 09 August 2011 - 08:16 PM
I don't mean to be a pest, but that is incredible workmanship mate, would it be possible if I could get a couple of different pics of it? Like front, back, top etc... PM if you want? Cheers mate, really impressive stuff.
#69
Posted 10 August 2011 - 07:55 AM
It doesn't look so nice up close yet 
no probs, I found it hard to photograph because its so shiny in bare metal - will take some more when its finished perhaps with some paint on it so you can see more clearly. Or did you mean the inner piece? Its a bit late for that, welded into the car now - will get some snaps of that too though, don't seem to have any here.
If you look at the pic beside the bench grinder you can see some of the tools I used - hammers and pieces of wood and steel clamped to the bench etc
no probs, I found it hard to photograph because its so shiny in bare metal - will take some more when its finished perhaps with some paint on it so you can see more clearly. Or did you mean the inner piece? Its a bit late for that, welded into the car now - will get some snaps of that too though, don't seem to have any here.If you look at the pic beside the bench grinder you can see some of the tools I used - hammers and pieces of wood and steel clamped to the bench etc
#70
Posted 10 August 2011 - 11:23 AM
OK here is the completed panel (less all the holes for plug welding and the speed nuts)
Did a dummy up to make sure it would fit properly, some minor gaps that will pull together with the vice grips and won't cause twisting so all good
Tidied it up and applied some rust proofing, sitting next to the original panel, some extra photos as requested
The top edge of the V in the middle is the only part that is welded - I cut that then beat the V into shape, then welded the top. The two cuts in the bottom edge allowed for the different angles at the sides, these will be welded up when I install it. The centre section has a little curve (helped by beating out the V) but is a bit straighter that the standard one, it still fits fine though and you won't notice when installed. Also the lower bends aren't quite as crisp but that doesn't really bother me.
Sorry some of the pics are a little blurry, I had to turn the flash off so the contours are visible but the camera doesn't seem to compensate as well for movement with it off.
Did a dummy up to make sure it would fit properly, some minor gaps that will pull together with the vice grips and won't cause twisting so all good
Tidied it up and applied some rust proofing, sitting next to the original panel, some extra photos as requested
The top edge of the V in the middle is the only part that is welded - I cut that then beat the V into shape, then welded the top. The two cuts in the bottom edge allowed for the different angles at the sides, these will be welded up when I install it. The centre section has a little curve (helped by beating out the V) but is a bit straighter that the standard one, it still fits fine though and you won't notice when installed. Also the lower bends aren't quite as crisp but that doesn't really bother me.
Sorry some of the pics are a little blurry, I had to turn the flash off so the contours are visible but the camera doesn't seem to compensate as well for movement with it off.
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:53 PM.
#72
_mick74lh_
_mick74lh_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 August 2011 - 12:56 PM
Love the fabrication/repairs. This cars coming along nicely
#73
_Liam_
_Liam_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 August 2011 - 08:05 PM
Nice work.. Cheers for that, excellent fab.
#74
_sting_
_sting_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 August 2011 - 09:08 PM
nice swiss cheese great job on the new one, looking good keep up the good work
#75
Posted 12 August 2011 - 03:31 PM
Nothing exciting today, just cleaned up the welds on the inner piece and applied some rust protection
Just need to drill a few (dozen!) holes in the new outer piece then I can weld it on and I'm finally done with this bit
Just need to drill a few (dozen!) holes in the new outer piece then I can weld it on and I'm finally done with this bit
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:53 PM.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
