9 replies to this topic

[turbo76lx]

Yes you need to run a t-piece and the original sender. The wire for the oil in a v6 conversion loom is for a oil light. Are you using the 85amp alternator from a inj 5ltr that has 3 wires or

the standard v8 55 amp one?

[turbo76lx]

The brake failure switch works the same, just get an old plug off a commodore joint the 2 wires from the commodore plug to the 1 wire on the torana loom.

The 'S' wire on the alternator is connected to the battery.

[ls2lxhatch]

If you look closely at the brake fail switch you should find that both terminals are connected together.

If you replaced a single wire proportioning valve then you need only to connect one of the terminals on the switch, it does not matter which one.

If your compliance plate lists ADR31 then you will have to wire the test circuit.

Firstly, LX Toranas have 2 different versions of the brake pressure switch (as already mentioned), but why do they have 2 variations ??

It goes like this. Early LX is wired the same as the LH series, where the handbrake light & the brake fail light are one in the same. This was before the introduction of ADR31 (for 1977) where 2 separate lights were compulsory.

The single pin switch was used on the early cars & the 2-pin switch was fitted to the ADR31 cars.

Ever since the EH series, Holden had been using a globe-checking system where the temp light was lit momentarily when the ignition switch was turned to the start position. It was only the temp light which did this, because unless the engine actually overheating the driver never saw it lit. The oil pressure light comes on every time the ignition is switched on, but before the engine is started, so it wasn't wired the same as the temp light. Likewise the brake light was tested when the handbrake was pulled on.

When the separate brake fail light was introduced, this same test facility was required. The brake pressure switch was wired with 2 pins which completed the circuit to the dash globe. If you look inside the 2-pin switch you will see that the pins are joined with a link. If the switch if left un-plugged, the dash light will not work, part of the fail-safe wiring. One of the wires goes to the dash light & the other to the ignition switch as part of the test circuit. To test the circuit, what you need to do is un-plug the switch & use a paper clip to bridge the 2 pins together inside the plug. Then turn the ignition to start, so the brake fail light will come on. If it doesn't find out why. It can only be the globe or the ignition switch. Once that is fixed, plug the brake pressure back in. If the light stays on, reset the switch. In the 32 years that these have been on the market, I've never needed a new switch.

Dr Terry.

[yel327]

For the oil pressure switch, just use a brass T-piece of an old red 6cyl manifold vacuum point. Not sure if it works when using a VN oil pump, i've always used the earlier pump and the thread for the prssure switch is in a different spot. Should be OK though.
You may have to change the excitation globe on the dash for the VN alternator, from memory the globe has to be 3W and the earlier Holden or Torana one is 5W (or something like that). Ask an auto electrician or investiage the relative wattages.

[yel327]

Here is a picture. Taken with the engine upside down. T-piece off the brake vacuum point on a (from memory) HD-HG 6cyl.

Wider shot also.

Attached Files

•  DCP_1194.JPG   37.16K   3 downloads
•  DCP_1193.JPG   69.98K   3 downloads

Edited by yel327, 14 January 2011 - 03:11 PM.