Started to do the front hq brake conversion on my LH, iv put new bushes and ball joints got hz stub axles and hq brakes drilled to torana stud pattern
with cast iron pbr brakes from hq when put the steering on full lock it hits the cross member not the upper or lower control arm.
iv been told by hoppers stoppers that i should put stops on the lower control arm so when i full lock it hits the stop rather than the
caliper but that limits my turning circle, will notice when doing sharp u turns. wondering if there is a way of getting past this? through all the research iv done i havnt heard of
people having this problem so am i doing something wrong? and when i see other posts of the tie rod ends touching the caliper how does this occur
if the brakes are switched to the back from the stub axles being switched left to right? im getting confused lol first time doing this.
hq brake conversion
Started by
_mmdavid_
, Apr 19 2011 06:49 PM
12 replies to this topic
#2
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 09:27 PM
can you post some pics of the conversion and where they hit the x-member. You did read all of this hq brake conversion tutorial didn't you?? sorry but i had to ask. Have you fitted the calipers to the back??
Edited by robslxhatch, 19 April 2011 - 09:29 PM.
#3
View GaragePosted 19 April 2011 - 09:29 PM
Normally you would fit the caliper to the front as per standard Torana where possible as (aside from the tie rod end) you have more clearance that way - I think you're saying you have them fitted to the rear? Also there is some leeway with clearance as you are unlikely to ever get full lock at full droop or full suspension compression.
#4
turbo76lx
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 09:29 PM
The brake calipers should still be to the front of the of the stub axles, the talk of swapping stubs from left to right is taking a HQ left hand stub and put it on the right hand side of the torana.
#5
_mmdavid_
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 09:53 PM
i made the mistake of putting them to the rear, i misunderstood what it said:P
just tried to put them the right way round and we swapped the steering arms from left to right but when we test fit the caliper
we cant bolt it up cause the steering arm gets in the way. im using the steering arms that came with the stubs axles.
just tried to put them the right way round and we swapped the steering arms from left to right but when we test fit the caliper
we cant bolt it up cause the steering arm gets in the way. im using the steering arms that came with the stubs axles.
#6
_mmdavid_
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 10:00 PM
i maybe answering my own question but i need either harrop or UC torana steering arms to clear the bottom of the caliper so it can bolt up but no matter which one i use
i still need to grind the caliper to clear the tie rod end and the harrop is better cause less bump steer issues right?
i still need to grind the caliper to clear the tie rod end and the harrop is better cause less bump steer issues right?
#7
dattoman
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 10:03 PM
Pics
Show us which caliper your trying to fit
And yes you need to use a suitable Torana steering arm... not a H series one that came with the stubs
Show us which caliper your trying to fit
And yes you need to use a suitable Torana steering arm... not a H series one that came with the stubs
#8
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 10:25 PM
There it is , you need to front mount them , use your original torana steering arms (at the very least , better to get some harrop arms for the bump steer issues),.
while you are at it you can save you wheel alignment guy some trouble and remove all the shims from your top control arm mounting point as the hq stubs will minus 2 degrees to your negative camber.
while you are at it you can save you wheel alignment guy some trouble and remove all the shims from your top control arm mounting point as the hq stubs will minus 2 degrees to your negative camber.
Edited by robslxhatch, 19 April 2011 - 10:31 PM.
#9
_mmdavid_
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 10:44 PM
Pics
Show us which caliper your trying to fit
And yes you need to use a suitable Torana steering arm... not a H series one that came with the stubs
#10
dattoman
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Posted 19 April 2011 - 10:56 PM
Thems HQ alright
They should just fall on there... once you slot them on the front and pop the Torana arms on (prferrably the A9X ones)
Though L34 didn't have A9X ones that I know of.... so maybe the ones you have will fit
They should just fall on there... once you slot them on the front and pop the Torana arms on (prferrably the A9X ones)
Though L34 didn't have A9X ones that I know of.... so maybe the ones you have will fit
#11
_mmdavid_
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Posted 20 April 2011 - 12:01 AM
Thems HQ alright
They should just fall on there... once you slot them on the front and pop the Torana arms on (prferrably the A9X ones)
Though L34 didn't have A9X ones that I know of.... so maybe the ones you have will fit
il give the original steering arms a try tomorrow and update you on how it all goes.
thanks
#12
_mmdavid_
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Posted 22 April 2011 - 06:57 PM
Gave the original steering arms a shot but it still sat close to the brakes so i decided to go get the harrop steering
arm considering i only have to do it once lol they give more than enough room
just waiting to get my discs back and i can put the front back together and start the rear which will be alot easier
thanks again for all the help
arm considering i only have to do it once lol they give more than enough room
just waiting to get my discs back and i can put the front back together and start the rear which will be alot easier
thanks again for all the help
#13
_crozy_
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Posted 25 October 2012 - 02:37 PM
i have done exactly the same as you have done but on full lock the top wishbone arm is hitting on the calliper is there any way around this or have i done something wrong
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