1365 replies to this topic

[yel327]

Ever since Castrol stopped making their tins of corrosion inhibitor (with Boron) I've had trouble. Finding a decent straight corrosion inhibitor is a pain for vehicles that do only hundreds of kM per annum.

[axistr]

I rarely use Nulon products, but the Nulon GM spec orange concentrate coolant has worked well for me over the years. I even use it in my Rotax engines powered go karts. Everything is aluminum or magnesium with not one sign of etching over the last 12 years.

[yel327]

I couldn't find a Nulon example. Link?

 

Penrite have these non-glycol products:

 

CLASSIC CAR COOLANT (CONCENTRATE) | Penrite Oil

 

10 TENTHS RACE COOLANT INHIBITOR (CONCENTRATE) | Penrite Oil

[Rockoz]

Back in the day, before aluminium components in cooling systems we used to have good results with using soluble oil in the cooling system.

But we used that stuff for all sorts of things.

The garage I worked at had quite a few old junkers that were used sporadically for different things.

Some would sit for years without being looked at.

Pump up the tyres, bit of fresh fuel down the carb and away they would go.

At some point they all had some soluble oil added to the cooling system, and never had any issues.

Didnt need a lot added, but it seemed to keep the water pump seals in good condition and cant recall even a hose needing replacing.

Water in the radiator always looked clean enough, with a hint of milkiness.

 

We used Mobilsol 77 from memory.

It was also an excellent degreaser, and was used for cooling liquid for the lathe as well.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[axistr]

Soluble oil was developed as a cutting, anti rust and cooling agent for metal lathes. It too has problems with separation when not being regularly cycled, and had problems with growth blooms when left stagnant. Synthetic lathe cutting/coolants have been the norm for more than thirty years due to the above problems.

 

I would much prefer to just dump the coolant and leave it dry or water only than use soluble oil. Soluble oil also softens rubber. It would be very likely that a hose would blow after relatively short layup periods. With a 15lb cap the hoses are so soft they grow almost half the size again when they come in contact with soluble or mineral oils over reasonably short time frames.

 

I recon you will find just about all coolants manufactures that advertise low temp high boiling point coolants will contain some form of Glycol. If you put a few drops of unmixed coolant between your fingers and rub them together the coolant will feel very slippery and oily. The thicker viscosity of Glycol than water is what makes it stick to components giving more resistance to cavitation. If it's an inhibitor only than the opposite if felt.

 

The later type A&B coolants will still contain a certain amount of Glycol, it's just been re formulated to reduce the original problems they were renowned for. Some of the original problem with Glycol still stands but the time frame has been expanded and the crystallization at the end of the expiration date has been keep to a minimum. In the Toranas with copper/brass radiators I have been using (green) type B coolant. In all my other cars, bikes and go karts I use type A coolant (orange). As said previously you need to use good quality coolant and change them regularly. 

 

yel327 see attached photo.

 

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[hanra]

I’ve actually decided to stick with the 13lb radiator cap that I’ve had on it for the last decade, albeit a brand new one.

[RallyRed]

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Edited by RallyRed, 29 April 2023 - 10:12 PM.

[RallyRed]

I couldn't find a Nulon example. Link?

Penrite have these non-glycol products:

CLASSIC CAR COOLANT (CONCENTRATE) | Penrite Oil

10 TENTHS RACE COOLANT INHIBITOR (CONCENTRATE) | Penrite Oil

We run the Penrite 10 Tenths stuff in the track cars, which can sit around for long periods between runs, particularly in covid times. Non glycol is a Motorsport Australia requirement ( slippery on tar).
No gunk found in various tasks over the years.

Edited by RallyRed, 29 April 2023 - 10:16 PM.

[Shiney005]

I don't know what the Toyota factory stuff is, (pink) but I did notice this week that after changing a heater hose on my Cruiser, the water / inhibitor mix that came out when I removed the hose, sat on my hoist for the next three days. It wouldn't evaporate.

[yel327]

I had that red Toyota coolant in the intercooler circuit on the supercharger in my Hilux. When it leaked slightly out of a hose connection or around the lid on the reservoir it went a little like the consistency of a redskin lolly, just a little more brittle. It never really went hard like the green stuff does.

[Shiney005]

SLR High Note Horn all good to go! Still works to!!!



 

Can you confirm that your car didn't have a captive nut welded in for the high note horn Brad? My car doesn't have one. I am guessing that the horn you bought came with an Ajax bolt and nut?

Edited by Shiney005, 01 September 2023 - 04:23 PM.

[hanra]

Judging by this. I’m going to say there isn’t a captive nut. I can’t recall and it’s tricky to see with the radiator in the way.

Attached Files

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[V-SLR5000-P]

No captive nut on my cars, nut and bolt as shown in the assembly manual. There are horns very similar to the Torana high tone which can be had for a fraction of the price. The principal difference is in the mounting tab but this is easily modified. For this one l cut off the mounting tab  and made up a mounting tab as per Torana and a quick mig weld later had a passable high tone horn. 

 

 

[Shiney005]

I actually have a few of the high note horns in the shed Tim. I just thought that because the low note had the square nut welded to the radiator support panel the other may have it as well. It could have been a way to check for originality of higher spec models.

[Cook]

Can't help with LH models but I can confirm my LX hatch only has one captive nut (can't remember which side) and the other side is just a hole in the rad support as per the diagram above. Cheers Ron 

[myss427]

Can't help with LH models but I can confirm my LX hatch only has one captive nut (can't remember which side) and the other side is just a hole in the rad support as per the diagram above. Cheers Ron 

 

Only one captive nut on the passenger side, drivers side is washer and nut.