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LH-UC The "double knuckle" (solid steering uni) conversion


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#26 _Squarepants_

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 08:22 PM

Ok did some googling and found this pic of a UC rack (which I assume has the same shaft as an LH/LX rack). I can now see the stepped down end you're talking about. So just to clarify, that stepped down end has no flat recess in it for the cotter pin? The flat recess is on the large part of the shaft. Therefore making it impossible to fit correctly without cutting off the stepped down section? I don't remember seeing this on mine, but I'm still keen to check it out.


Not to be picky but I don't think that's a UC rack. UC's don't have rubber mounting bushes, they have aluminium bushes.

#27 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 08:42 AM

All of the UC racks I have removed haven't had aluminium bushes.

#28 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 10:55 AM

LH/LX had rubber bushes.
A9X has an alloy version of the rubber bush, the mounting hole in the rack is the same as the LH/LX.
UC racks have a different mount with a steel crush tube.

This photo by Rorym shows LX (top) and UC (bottom) racks. The larger version of the photo is missing.
Posted Image

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 25 November 2011 - 10:56 AM.


#29 _dagsy_

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 10:53 AM

would i be able to do this to a 4 cyl HB?



#30 tsn007

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Posted 31 October 2021 - 07:27 PM

sorry to did an old thread

 

i just fitted a new uni joint and steering coupling rag/rubber style

 

and have about 10mm play in the steering

 

should the rag coupling have any flex/movement in it

 

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#31 76lxhatch

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 03:46 AM

It will certainly have some movement, otherwise it would be no different to a solid joint. That seems a bit much especially for a brand new joint, it shouldn't really hit the safety lugs under normal operation (if it doesn't move that far when installed it may be fine). It can be difficult to get suitable rubber material, most appear to just use pieces of conveyor belt.



#32 Peter UC

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 12:03 PM

Double check the cotter pins are all the way home, sometimes a small misalignment or the pins slightly rotated in the bores will mean the nut tightens but the joint has slop.



#33 Statler

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 12:38 PM

I failed a rwc because of the factory play in the steering. 



#34 tsn007

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Posted 02 November 2021 - 06:20 PM

how much play is normal ?

 

i have between 10 & 15mm play either side, that was with the car on jacks



#35 axistr

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Posted 03 November 2021 - 07:15 AM

Hi Tony, up on jacks with no load on the steering you should have zero play. There is something wrong if you do. Drop it down on the ground and get someone to rock the steering wheel play and inspect where any movement is coming from.



#36 Statler

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Posted 03 November 2021 - 04:33 PM

Hi Tony, up on jacks with no load on the steering you should have zero play. There is something wrong if you do. Drop it down on the ground and get someone to rock the steering wheel play and inspect where any movement is coming from.

I'll bet that he has at least 1 or more cotter pins in the wrong sides.



#37 tsn007

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Posted 10 December 2021 - 07:03 PM

decided to do the double knuckle conversion, no mods required other than trimming the cotter pin so it would not hit the exhaust, it feels tighter , yet to drive it

#38 Statler

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Posted 11 December 2021 - 08:56 AM

Cotter pins do NOT need trimming. 



#39 tsn007

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Posted 11 December 2021 - 07:05 PM

the threaded end of the pin was hitting the exhaust

#40 308 Sunbird

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Posted 13 December 2021 - 11:43 AM

If using HQ V8 engine mounts rather than Torana will place the exhaust down close enough to the

steering shaft to hit one of the cotter pins with some extractors.



#41 Cook

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Posted 13 December 2021 - 02:45 PM

I agree with Stuart above. I had "H" series mounts to get the engine a bit lower but steering fouled on pacemaker extractors, and that was with a Borgeson steering uni, which is slightly slimmer than the original joint.  Switched back to Torana mounts and sorted out the issue, but still close. Cheers Ron



#42 Heath

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Posted 14 December 2021 - 01:45 PM

I had to trim the hell out of my cotter pin on my twin uni job.

 

To say categorically "they don't need trimming" is ignoring the range of products & combinations available for these cars.

Trim the cotter pin if you need to, don't if you don't.



#43 Statler

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Posted 14 December 2021 - 04:42 PM

I had to trim the hell out of my cotter pin on my twin uni job.

 

To say categorically "they don't need trimming" is ignoring the range of products & combinations available for these cars.

Trim the cotter pin if you need to, don't if you don't.

What range of products Heath?

There's a knuckle , an intermediate shaft , another knuckle & a rack input shaft. 

Or are there other FACTORY items that i'm missing? 

He ain't reinventing the wheel ! 

 

If you want to go fitting foreign parts then all bets are off , but the OP mentions nothing about that so it's fair to assume that all he is doing is removing the rag joint & replacing it with another knuckle ( which has been done 1000 times ) . 

Using Pacemaker or Castle Hill or Genie or stock pipes the cotter pins do NOT need to be cut. I know this from experience ! I've been throwing rag joints over my shoulder since the mid 80's. 

 

If the pin is fouling on something (pipes) then there is a problem which should be investigated & rectified . Usually it's because the cotter pin has been fitted in the wrong side . 



#44 Heath

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Posted 14 December 2021 - 05:08 PM

Well mine has Tuff Mounts which sit a little lower than standard Torana mounts (a little higher than full-sized Holden mounts)

And mine has off-the-shelf stainless Tri-Y's for VN heads.

 

They are two of the common off-the-shelf parts that I have in my car that necessitate cutting the end off the cotter pin.



#45 dron

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Posted 14 December 2021 - 05:19 PM

I had to cut the pin to. The threaded end of the aftermarket pin is longer than the factory origonal I removed and needed to be trimmed to clear the headers. Better to cut it than not have steering due to a clearance problem and yes I do know how to install the pin's



#46 rodomo

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Posted 14 December 2021 - 10:04 PM

I had to trim the hell out of my cotter pin on my twin uni job. Cos it was was way too heavy!



#47 tsn007

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Posted 14 December 2021 - 10:33 PM

the steering is more direct and slightly heavier with the double knuckle there free play has now gone as well i have yet to hit a bump to see if it transmit back to the steering wheel

#48 Statler

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Posted 15 December 2021 - 04:05 PM

the steering is more direct and slightly heavier with the double knuckle there free play has now gone as well i have yet to hit a bump to see if it transmit back to the steering wheel

You probably wont notice any difference except no more steering play. 






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