Commodore vs skyline diff
#1 _bangbang_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 08:26 PM
Well, buggered if I know what to do! Here is the story:
I am in the process of getting a 383 stroker built for my 4 door LX. The vehicle is a weekend cruiser - with no track work/drags etc (except for powercruise once a year). I am not a real harsh person on the driveline - I believe thats what bush-bashers are for The engine is going to have bucket loads of tourqe.. but I will be quite easy on the clutch.
The engine is getting built at the moment, so I am now in the process of finding out which diff to uprgrade too. I have been looking at some old threads, and have found that falcon, commodore and skyline B/W diff's are all quite common conversions (falcons are less common I believe).
Due to the costly engine build - most of my savings are going fairly quick, so I at this stage I cannot afford to spend mega dollars on getting a diff converted (including a 9"). Luckily, one of my good mates is a fitter/welder in a engineering shop.. and he is looking after the bracketry side of things. I also believe that because it will take me quite a while to run the engine in (therefore driving it quite easy).. I can be saving up for a 9" down the track. I only drive the vehicle once every few weeks.
So my questions are:
1: I will be running a 4 speed manual box, so I'm guessing I will be needing a diff ratio of around 308 - so I can make the most of the tourqe that the engine will have (plus better for highway cruising). Do you agree?
2: Are skyline diffs the easiest/cheapest conversion as they don't need shortening? However it appears that they don't come in a ratio that I will be after. Also, it appears as though getting blank rotors are becoming an issue?
3: I have access to heaps of falcon B/W diffs.. are these much weaker than commodore and skyline diffs.. and will the falcon housings need shortening?
4: Commodore diffs need shortening (VN onwards).. thus making the process quite expensive. I know where there is a standard VN housing and axles sitting for a cheap price though.
Could some of you guys please help me out with some advise on which way to go?? Would be greatfully appreciated
Thanks heaps..
#2 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 08:37 PM
Your best bet will be get a skyline diff, as there about the right width, and get a 3.08 gearset out of a commy or falcon (my VS V6 auto is 3.08 if thats of any help, might help narrow the search) and fit it to the diff.....
Cheers.
#3
Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:33 PM
#4 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:37 PM
Agreed V8 ones would be better.
Didnt realize Falcon never ran a 3.08, surely they ran something in the low 3's that would be comparable???
Cheers.
#5
Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:57 PM
holden 3.08 are same diff/gears just shot peened for H/D use.
#6 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 11:01 PM
Handy info though.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 03 October 2011 - 11:01 PM.
#7
Posted 04 October 2011 - 02:59 AM
Housing probably makes little difference but its nice not to have to shorten axles so Skyline is handy in that respect. However they are still a little wider than standard (20mm) and the down side is that you need to weld and re-drill the flanges to change the four stud pattern to something useful. The Falcon obviously has Ford stud pattern on the axles but that is possibly useable, and they have 1/2" studs.
I am a little hazy on the Ford options but as far as I know there is no such thing as a 3.07 in these Borg Warners (3.07 superseded 3.08 in the change to M80 VT2 onward) - Falcons had 2.92 and 3.23. Some common ratio options (not a complete list):
2.92 - Falcon
3.08 - standard option on Commodores of all types from VN-VS, readily available for next to nothing
3.23 - VK 1/2 injected six, Falcon, Valiant
3.45 - VL Commodore, XR6 (with bigger crownwheel)
3.7 - manual Skyline
3.89 - auto Skyline, manual Pintara (noisy old version, superseded by 3.91)
3.91 - auto Skyline, manual Pintara
4.11 - auto Pintara
Commodores up to VL (except some V8s and VL Turbo), Falcons up to XF, Valiants and the Pintaras only have two spider 25 spline centres and axles but everything else still interchanges.
The Skyline disc brakes are a nice compact unit with less offset and integrated hand brake in the caliper, although slightly smaller diameter rotor than the Commodore ones. The Skyline and Commodore housing end flanges are the same but on different angles. The XR6 Falcon one I have (EF-EL I think?) has a different flange on the housing with similar sized disc brakes to a Commodore (and similar calipers again with integrated hand brake) but a stupid big alloy caliper bracket.
If you're looking for an LSD centre then the Ford ones seem to be let go the cheapest and are also the newest so not a bad bet (Commodore ones are few and far between in that era).
#8 _bangbang_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 06:30 AM
#9
Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:16 PM
#10 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:24 PM
#11 _bangbang_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:27 PM
Thanks chopper, will keep that in mind!
#12
Posted 04 October 2011 - 02:11 PM
The Commodore driveshaft flange would be useful if you don't have one, the Commodore shafts are quite small diameter so the yoke itself won't be much use but any yoke that takes a standard 1 1/16" cup uni will attach to the flange.
#13 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 02:25 PM
Just in case...
#14 _bangbang_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 04:58 PM
I just called the local machine shop.. they qouted $200 to weld up the existing ford stud pattern and then drill the new torana holes. Not to bad.. looks like this conversion will be quite cheap
#15
Posted 04 October 2011 - 05:18 PM
That's a pretty reasonable price too
#16 _bangbang_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 05:33 PM
#17 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 07:34 PM
#18 _Quagmire_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 11:40 PM
Fraud run 3.07 i believe
holden 3.08 are same diff/gears just shot peened for H/D use.
some ea's ran a 3.08 from memory
though most where 2.92's or 3.23's
#19 _bangbang_
Posted 11 October 2011 - 08:39 PM
#20
Posted 11 October 2011 - 10:31 PM
I haven't tried to use the Commodore backing plates onto an R31 diff yet so can't say for sure thats a bolt in
But whatever brakes you choose make sure you get the right axle bearings to suit that configuration
And R31 rotors are 4 stud as the axles... so if your changing to 5 stud and use the R31 brakes... redrill
#21
Posted 12 October 2011 - 03:06 PM
#22 _bangbang_
Posted 13 October 2011 - 07:38 AM
#23 _bangbang_
Posted 16 October 2011 - 08:06 PM
Question time please.. I read in the sticky thread about modifying the proportioning valve, and removing the residual pressure valve. Can someone please advise me exactly what I need to do in order to do this? Thanks heaps
#24 _CHOPPER_
Posted 17 October 2011 - 12:54 PM
#25 _bangbang_
Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:18 PM
In the sticky it says: "one to remove is the brass olive in the big hole on the master cylinder".
And also in the sticky it says "We all agree on removing the residual valve from the master cylinder also".
So.. do I need to totally pull the guts out of the pressure valve, and then also try and find this brass olive - and remove that too?
Thanks heaps
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