The guys from my Gemini forum have also asked me to do a writeup of how to build a motor, Im no pro and just know what ive learnt from books/dvds and forums so id also like to post up what ive done on here and hopefully you can confirm im doing it right and point out anything ive missed or plain out doing wrong. Im open to any criticism and suggestions.
Ok firstly here is the full specs.
Isuzu 4ZE1 2.6L Straight 4 Single OHC
Block crack & sonic tested, Line hones, Bored & Torque plate honed, decked
Stock 10/10 Crank, Stock Main bolts, King bearings
Spool forged rods with ARP2000 bolts
Custom forged JE pistons designed to suit turbo, Ceramic coated crowns and low friction coated skirts
All balanced
Head ported by Shaun from CHT (Previously Allports)
Head Studs
Custom Cam, 44mm Inlets, 40mm exhaust
Custom Individual Runner exhaust manifold
GT30/76 Garret Turbo
Custom Intake manifold
Ok here goes, Ill write it here as If I was writing a how-to write up.
Got your freshly machined block back from the Machine shop.They would have hot-tanked it and removed all the old paint and rust scale for you. If your just doing a Re-ring or only painting the block and its not being hot-tanked then just make sure you give it a really good clean/degrease and wire brush off any loose paint/corrosion.
Mount it onto a Engine stand and you should have something like this:
Its up to you if you grind the exterior smooth and paint it in full gloss 2-pak but I think the Gloss enamel from a Can looks just fine, its hidden under manifolds and turbos anyway so meh, I doubt anyone had even noticed the current block in my Coupe is white.
So get yourself a can of Engine enamel in your chosen color, Mask off the machined areas such as where the head gasket and sump gasket go etc but dont be too worried about overspray as fresh engine enamel wipes off with a rag and some carby cleaner easy as until its been heat cycled (engine run a few times)
Follow the instructions on the can (typically shake for at least a minute after the ball rattles and do 2 light coats followed by a medium coat and leave to cure overnight) Ill emphasize the bit about shaking for at LEAST a minute, that goes for any spray can. You get a much better spray if its thoroughly mixed and when its around 25'c
Leave it overnight to cure (or the designated time stated on the can) and then remove the masking tape. The machine shop should have gotten most of the crap out but just to be sure fire up your compressor, using a blow gun stick it into all the holes you can find in the block and give them a blow out, you will be surprised at how much rust scale goes flying... keep at it until it seems all clear.
Now you want to protect the machined surfaces from flash rusting so grab a can of crc and give them all a nice coat. So thats areas like the top deck of the block, the bores, crank journals and sump gasket area etc.
Next we need to fit the welsh plugs (also known as core plugs) you would have gotten abit of over spray where they sit but just use a rag and spray some carby cleaner on it then wipe out the inside to remove any paint... make sure you clean it all off and there is no more paint coming off when you wipe it with the rag.
Then use some gasket goo, put a little bit on your finger and wipe a thin layer on the block where the welsh plug is going to sit, If you painted your block black use black goo... or if you painted it red you can use the red hi-temp goo... if you painted it pink... well thats your problem
This pic shows a cleaned out welsh plug hole, then a hole with the goo applied and the last welsh plug fitted. G-series and 4Z's both use 5x 35mm plugs on the sides of the block and 1x 38mm plug on the rear of the block (you wont be able to get to the 38mm one at this stage while its on the stand but dont worry we will get it later)
Ok so you got your goo in the hole, Sit the plug in place then use a socket that fits snugly (23mm fitted nicely) as pictured with a Extension bar
Then use a large hammer and tap it in, being careful to make sure it goes in evenly, you can lean the bar slightly to one side to adjust it. Knock it in until the plugs are just below the face of the block like so.
Stand back and admire your work, I dunno why but Ive always liked the look of a freshly painted block with nice clean core plugs. Even 4cyls
Let the goo dry, usually about an hour and then fill a bucket with hot soapy water (dish washing detergent is fine) Be ready with some rags and some pipe brushes, I bought mine specifically for engine building but any generic ones will do.
I couldn't really think how to get a pic of the next bits, But I used a hose with a gun on the end and first sprayed it all down... the aim is to remove any left behind metal filings or even dust/dirt that may have gotten in there. so Give it a good spray out then use the brushes and scrub everywhere paying particular attention to the bores and use the little pipe brushes up inside all the oil gallery's then use the hose again and spray it out, Repeat until you are satisfied but work fast, as you don't want it to all start rusting...
Use clean lint free rags (I bought a big bag) and wipe it all down drying it as much as possible and then use the air-gun to make sure its dry... don't forget to blow into every hole as well. Concentrate on the machined surfaces first as they are they most important.
Now everything is clean and dry we want to protect it again, so get out the crc/wd40 and give all the bare metal surfaces a liberal coating.
Thats all im doing with the block for tonight, This goes for any time your not working on it. Use a new bin bag or something similar and cover up the whole motor to make sure nothing falls in and there is no dust contamination. Any sort of particles can cause serious damage to your motor.
---To be Continued---
Edited by Viper, 03 December 2011 - 11:11 PM.
