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Lh torana restoration rust restoration rust lx torana

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#1 torana_nick

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:10 PM

Hi Guys i have bought a Lh torana, i bought the car in high fill ready to paint but i don't trust it and i am in the process of stripping it lucky i have been because i have found some nice surprises....
Been following this forum for a while now and have been really inspired from some of the work you guys do,
and actually have giving me courage to tackle my own rust repairs. I actually have purchased a new rad support and got my self some sheet metal for behind the bonnet hinges. (1.6mm i think i bout to thick) and i started removing my rad today while i was jacking the car to put a bucket under i noticed some really bad rust on the seal under the guard. I got the sh*ts now and though id come inside and share my progress so far... not sure if i am uloading pics right but i will get the hang of it....


this is her getting dropped off...

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some rust behind bonnet hinges

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a bad repaid on the beever panel. had about 15mm of bog over it..

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a realy bad repair job on the rad support, it had a peace of steel welded over the lot to fix it LOL

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more coming......

#2 torana_nick

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:22 PM

this is the rust i found and made me give up today..

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#3 _gen3torrie_

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:31 PM

keep persisting and you'll get through it. i had a pretty #@$^%& HZ ute but im lucky that my lx is rust and 99% bog free

#4 LHSL

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:39 PM

Good luck with the rebuild Nick. That is the problem with buying a half complete project. I had the same issue, no decent spray painter would touch the car cause they didn't know what was underneath the primer/high fill.

Phillip

#5 torana_nick

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:46 PM

yeh i been at it for 2 weeks and almost pulled out the motor, i thought i had the rust repairs under control untill today lol i have a mate thats a 3rd year thats going to help me with some panel and prep work with is good and his work has giving me a pretty averedge price to paint it... i am hoping to get the body done in the next 6 months not sure if its a short or long time... do you guys think that 1.6mm steel is to thick for hand bending??

cheers

#6 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:51 PM

Pends on what your making.

1.6 can be a bit of a prick to get to do what you want. Would be good for the hinge area etc though.

Lots of panel shops etc throw out old dented panels, they will usually let you raid there scrap bin and nick some panels if you ask nicely, thats all i use for rust repair sections around home.

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 22 February 2012 - 08:52 PM.


#7 torana_nick

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 09:03 PM

thats what i thought like a old door or something. funny thing is i trew out a old vr bonnet a month before i bought the torie.. whould made good repair sections.

#8 torana_nick

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 04:45 PM

Hey guys.


Haven't been able to get much work on the car this weekend been realy busy with work and other comments, I also been on the hunt for a decent mig welder. Not wanting to spend to much but it looks like that's not happening.
Hoping to fabricate some sections during the week and Hopfully get a welder soon to attempt to
Weld them. It actually sounds easier than done.
I have tried bending the 1.6mm into shape but I dOnt think I can manage it. Especially the bonnet hinge repair, if you guys notice it actually goes up over the lip,
I haven't seen any of them like that going trough this forum. So I am a little worried about the final result.
Only time will tell I'll post more piks as I attempt to fix it.




#9 torana_nick

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 07:01 PM

Maneged to get a few hours of work on the car after work, i shaped up the bonnet hinge bit, also the seal under the guard..
some picks below they still need a few more hours tweeking but i am happy with whats done so far..
next is gotta get a welder and practice before i weld them on the car..

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#10 hawk

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 07:04 PM

good luck looks like some fun repairs ahead of you.

#11 torana_nick

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 07:51 PM

thanks mate, it should be fun also a learning experience. i am pretty handy with most things so i am hoping welding comes pretty easy to me... buying a weleder is an other thing to...

#12 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 07:56 PM

Gonna need the area a lot cleaner than that for any sort of a weld.

And is that a massive gap i see around the hinge repair?? Probably not the best, although you have something to weld it to behind so may work.

Sorry to nit pick, figured you might need some hints hehe.

Cheers.

#13 torana_nick

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 08:21 PM

Defenetly need to clean it up. I was only just playing with the sheets metal
To get the basic shape... Still not 100% happy with the shape I will get it as close as I can before I weld it in.
I haven't got a welder yet, thinking of hiring one from kenards for now.
And all feedback is welcomed, I suppose that's why I am on a forum to be able to get as many opinions as possible
And as much info as I can get. All that comes for free so i can't complain. Lol




#14 torana_nick

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 08:29 PM

also there is no gap there might just be the quality of the photo (iphone pics) that makes it look like that. its just the shiny metal and black paint around it..
i think thats the part your talking about....

#15 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 08:35 PM

Ah yep i see now.

Cheers.

#16 _Liam_

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 08:50 PM

Those sections look very neatly folded up.

Looks like a good project. Good luck mate.

#17 torana_nick

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 09:29 AM

Thanks mate, trying to get them as close as factory as possible. I am a little worried about the fold on the Bonnet hinge.
Hopfully when i weld it it comes up ok...
I got a question that I know has come up a million times on this forum.
A welder has come up its a Cigweld transmig 130 twin. Hardly used for 220. Comes with bits an peaces do you guys think that's a good deal?

Cheers.

#18 _Liam_

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 05:36 PM

Yep. Thats fine for panel work and up to 3 mm.

#19 torana_nick

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 03:46 PM

So Since I started following this forum I have seen everyone repairing there plenum chambers.
I thought it was the section where the heater box sits on the firewall. Yesterday looking at someone else's page I relized it's actually under the dash.
So today when I got home I pulled the box out discovered a nice surprise lol
It's not as bad as what I have seen also not to
Conserned out making the section for it but I am wondering what's the best way to attack it from? Under or on top? I think this one might be out of my league....
Some advise would be good.

Cheers
Nick

#20 torana_nick

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 04:18 PM

here is a pic of it. not that major.. but awkward spot..

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#21 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 06:01 PM

I repaired mine from underneath, after removing the dash, carpet etc. A fiddly job but alot easier than unpicking & re-fitting the entire plenum. Also, MIG welding changes the molecular structure of the steel, making it alot more prone to rusting, so naturally any boxed panel that is exposed to water etc like the plenum that has been unpicked & plug or stitch welded back together will rust around the welds very quickly unless you can seal & rust proof it well. I've repaired plenty of older cars that have had rust repairs/replacement panels fitted over time that have rusted back worse second time around.

#22 torana_nick

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 06:46 PM

thanks for that, i am going to try from underneath. but i am going to need to get allot of practice with the welder before..
my dash and carpet are already out so i am half way there...
an other question, does the water come in from the heater motor or not? whats the best way to minimize water from coming in?

cheers
nick

#23 torana_nick

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 05:47 PM

hey guys being a long weekend and all i am hoping to get some work done on the car...
plans are take out the red motor and hopfully strip the bay..
i will be getting rid of the motor so if you know anyone that is after one its available! It was running perfect when i bought the car.

#24 hawk

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 06:55 PM

what sort of motor is it? and how much are you after?

#25 torana_nick

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 07:11 PM

173 motor its got Lukey extractors on it as well. i was thinking around the $200 mark would be a fair price....
unfortunately its still in the car i had some family commitments to attend to.. so much for a long weekend..





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