Jump to content


Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

Nicks LH Restoration

Lh torana restoration rust restoration rust lx torana

  • Please log in to reply
200 replies to this topic

#26 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:36 PM

hey guys, abit of an update found some time to take out the motor today (my first one) so it took a while..
Next thing is to attack is removing K-frame for rebuilding, fixing rust in engine bay and bringing stripping it back to bare metal. hopefully in the next month the front of the car will be ready for some paint.. :)
the 173 motor and box along with its full exhaust is also for sale for who ever is interested.

Posted Image

#27 _Torza_

_Torza_
  • Guests

Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:39 PM

good stuff nick keep it going, gee i wish my plenum was as good as yours. you seem to have things under control its coming along nice good job mate

#28 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 20 March 2012 - 04:59 PM

Thanks mate, it seems like I do buy deep down I stress. Welding has to be the biggest concern for me..
I got a welder and bits finally just gotta get a bottle of gas and start practicing.
Hopfully I can get some more work done over the next few weeks.

#29 _Torza_

_Torza_
  • Guests

Posted 20 March 2012 - 09:05 PM

yeah i know what you mean i haven't tried welding since i was in trade school something like 15 years ago. i dont even have a welder yet i keep putting it off doing other things but ill have to bite the bullet soon and get one cause im running out of bits to cut off and i already got most of the rare spare replacement panels sitting round gathering dust

#30 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 22 March 2012 - 05:02 PM

Oh well we gotta learn, because to pay someone to do it will cost a fortune..
I got a few days off next week so hoping I can get some practice and actually do some welding on the car...
I will post pics...


#31 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 24 March 2012 - 07:06 PM

Just wanted to know if someone has fitted an after market rad support? i cut mine out a while ago and i have played around with the rares spair one it seems that my new one has a 10-15 over hang underneath. interested to see how some of you guys done it...any tips or tricks?


Cheers

Nick



#32 _Liam_

_Liam_
  • Guests

Posted 24 March 2012 - 07:39 PM

Hey Nick can you post a picture up please so we can offer more detailed advice? Cheers mate.

#33 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 24 March 2012 - 07:51 PM

sorry mate i was to lazy to go in the garage to take a 2 secs photo.
you will see what i am talking about... there is no way you could fit the nose cone over that.. lol i am interested to see how some people have done it around here...

Posted Image

Posted Image

#34 _Liam_

_Liam_
  • Guests

Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:17 PM

That bottom is meant to be flush with the Apron's. The Apron is still standard I assume? Where abouts did you get the panel? I can't even see the bottom tab for the Nose Cone? I think you may have to trim and cut and shut to fit if it is too far out of whack. Or get a refund.

#35 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:41 PM

I am pretty sure its an original apron, and thats what i thought it has to be flush because i know that the original was. if i go flush then the bonnet catch will be to big.
there is a tap there but its a lil hard to see because of the dust and poor quality of the iphone pics..
Its actually a rares spair replacement and i prob wont be able to get a refund its all scratched from just moving from corner to corner in the garage..
as you suggested i might have to cut the hole thing in half and cut off 10mm and re weld back together....

thanks for the advise.

#36 _Liam_

_Liam_
  • Guests

Posted 25 March 2012 - 01:26 PM

I think you should ring Rares first and tell them the problem.

#37 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 25 March 2012 - 01:40 PM

That's what I'll do actually because I measured the original this morning and it's almost 15mm smaller in thickness.
Looking at the new one might be an easy cut and shut but at the end of the day shouldn't need that much mod to a replacement part.
Thanks for your reply mate.

#38 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 26 March 2012 - 05:50 PM

abit of an update, i got my self some argon shield and practiced with some sheet metal, i must admit welding is the hardest thing i have ever done.
and thats coming from a pretty trade minded person.
I also striped the drivers door and half of the engine bay. hoping by the end of the week ill have the engine bay stripped and some more hang on panels..
I bought some Deoxodiser by MOTOSPRAY now i am wondering if that is the same stuff as deoxodine i hear everyone talking about on this forum, because i do have some surface rust under where the booster is.
some pics below id like to get some feedback for my welding. keep in mind its the 3rd bead i have ever done... i recon after i grind it down should come up ok...

THE DOOR
Posted Image

THE WELD
Posted Image

#39 _Liam_

_Liam_
  • Guests

Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:26 PM

Don't worry bout what it looks like Nick, as long as it penetrates the metal and looks good grinded back, that's a great weld in my book.

Doing fine mate.

#40 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:38 PM

Thanks mate, its not like my welds are going to be a show peace.. under paint no one will see them.. if its not getting full penetration should i dial up the wire speed?
I also went in to rares personally today i don't think they really cered he just sed he would be spewing if he was in my shoes LOL nice customer service but he is getting back to me with a measurement from an other rad support.. will see what happens..

#41 SHEEL

SHEEL

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 311 posts
  • Name:Daniel
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Joined: 09-October 09

Posted 27 March 2012 - 10:32 AM

Pretty sure if you need more penentration you should be slowing the wire speed down and/or cranking up the amps/gas

Personally I dial the amps/gas up to the point where it is almost burning holes if you move to slow...then dial it back a touch from that point.

#42 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 27 March 2012 - 03:58 PM

cheers mate, i have only been going off the settings on the welder. i still have alot of practice before i can actually do some welding on the car.

#43 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 27 March 2012 - 04:26 PM

I got stuck into it afterwork today and striped some of the engine bay.. any tips on what to use in all the hard to get places? its gonna take forever to get in there LOL

Posted Image
Posted Image

#44 SmacT

SmacT

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 903 posts
  • Name:Sam
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:LX Sedan in the build
  • Joined: 24-December 08

Posted 27 March 2012 - 05:31 PM

Bare metal looks so good...

I used a wire cup on the end of a drill on those tight areas. Worked well, but there are other methods.

#45 _LH SLR 3300_

_LH SLR 3300_
  • Guests

Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:34 PM

I use graffiti removal discs. They look like seaweed all scrunched up. Small wire wheels on the end of a drill or a Dremel work good in the hard to get areas. Deoxidine & scotchbrite/scourers work good too, might take a few goes to remove the really tough areas of surface rust, but works well especially if you leave the deoxidine to soak in for around 10 mins or so before scrubbing the rust. WD40 or similar works a treat to prevent the rust coming back until you're ready to apply primer, just spray a liberal coat of it over the bare steel & remove with prepsol/wax & grease remover before priming.

#46 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:34 PM

cheers mate, gonna invest in a few of those.... maybe the one on the grinder for faster stripping i was thinking.

#47 _LH SLR 3300_

_LH SLR 3300_
  • Guests

Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:40 PM

Yep, that's what i use, i usually treat all bare steel with deoxidine before applying etch primers etc. If the steel is left bare, even for a couple of days, & not treated with the deoxidine before starting the paint process, the possibility of corrosion blisters appearing in the paint later increase. Some may dispute my claims, but i am a qualified panel beater & i work in a shop that specialises in restoration of old cars like Toranas.

#48 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:45 PM

I use graffiti removal discs. They look like seaweed all scrunched up. Small wire wheels on the end of a drill or a Dremel work good in the hard to get areas. Deoxidine & scotchbrite/scourers work good too, might take a few goes to remove the really tough areas of surface rust, but works well especially if you leave the deoxidine to soak in for around 10 mins or so before scrubbing the rust. WD40 or similar works a treat to prevent the rust coming back until you're ready to apply primer, just spray a liberal coat of it over the bare steel & remove with prepsol/wax & grease remover before priming.


Thats what i used to get it all back to bare metal, i tried paint stripping after looking at your thread but i didn't like the fumes and the mess and how time consuming it was so i went to those strip discs. they seem to strip fast and with minimal heat... what primer do you recommend? etch out of a can then onto a 2k epoxy? not realy sure i just used etch primer on the door and guard for the time being but if you can point in the right direction would be appreciated.

cheers Nick.

#49 torana_nick

torana_nick

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 759 posts
  • Name:Nick
  • Location:victoria
  • Car:LH Torana Project
  • Joined: 11-December 11

Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:49 PM

Yep, that's what i use, i usually treat all bare steel with deoxidine before applying etch primers etc. If the steel is left bare, even for a couple of days, & not treated with the deoxidine before starting the paint process, the possibility of corrosion blisters appearing in the paint later increase. Some may dispute my claims, but i am a qualified panel beater & i work in a shop that specialises in restoration of old cars like Toranas.


i bought some Deoxidiser by Motospray, is that the right stuff? cand find anything else.

#50 _LH SLR 3300_

_LH SLR 3300_
  • Guests

Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:58 PM

If you can apply it in a well ventilated area away from your house etc & you have the right mask, i'd use a 2K epoxy etch followed by a good 2K primer. The acrylic stuff you buy in an aerosol is porous & won't seal the steel from moisture anywhere near as well as a 2K product. Also, most 2K etch primers have anti-corrosion properties as well, be sure to read the product instructions as some epoxy primers won't adhere to steel treated with deoxidine, deoxidine leaves a film on the steel which may or may not need to be sanded off before applying the primer, or delamination may occur.

Yes, i use the Motospray stuff & i'm impressed with the results i got from it.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Lh torana restoration rust, restoration, rust, lx torana

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users